Peter
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Everything posted by Peter
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No, it doesnt pull out. You trap it in the folded over bit, about 2-3 inches from the end of the taper. The advantage to this method is that you can yank it pretty hard, and you can pull on the exposed core at the same time, which helps the tapered cover to slip through.
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Sorry to hear that Dave.
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For the job you are trying to do, a wire fid is the best tool. Get a length of piano wire, twist a loop onto each end, and then fold it in half. Push the folded end into the cover where you want to pull the taper through to, and bring it out where it goes in. Snare the end of the taper and hook a carabiner through the two eyes on the fid, anchor it to something strong, and the give it a good yank to bury it. Try not to snare any strands on the inside of the cover when you insert the fid. Every strand you break (they are about the thickness of a human hair) will make it harder to get the taper buried, and weaken the finished splice.
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I'm not 100% sure whether its a 16 strand or a double braid. Is the core made up of several strands twisted together, or it is like another braided rope inside the cover?
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I have said this before on this forum, there is only one place to do aerial rescue, and that is during normal work activities, on a live work site, during a job, without any prior notice. The climber should have to attract the attention of the ground crew, stop all work and advise what has happened, obviously making sure that everyone understands that it is a practice. From that point on everything should go as an a real emergency, other than actually making the emergency call.
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She's probably saving up to buy you a Lotus as a thank you present for supporting her through uni...........
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Or Pete McTree
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Nice one Will, congrats on the new wife job, can you not be a kept man now?
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Very nice, have you lockstitched them all yet?!
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Alternatively you could drive into a tree, activate the airbags, and then not replace them.......
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I doubt wilsons will be very interested, its probably outlived its design life many times over.
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Grinding a slot would work ok if the crack is fairly straight, and you are welding it up with mig. If the crack is jagged like you have drawn it it would be a bit more tricky.
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If you plug it up it wont last too long. Plating it over would be a longer term solution.
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If its firewood you're looking at its not worth moving it more than 50-60 miles IMO.
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Done plenty of call out work at night. Buy a really good head torch.
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If I were you, I would book some assessments from the new CS suite, and not bother with the training per se. Not too sure which units would be the most appropriate, possibly CS40 and 41?
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I have, in a busy shopping centre amongst other places. Really enjoyable. Great for stealth work on protected trees too.
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Dont see why not, the trailer bit is properly braked etc. Telephone number prices though.
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On a similar theme. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DGIvijrLkaw&feature=related]YouTube - Iveco Trakker Hovertruck[/ame]
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Appointed Person. Not very new no. The person responsible for planning the lifting operation.
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Someone on here was talking about too large a sheave causing flattening of the rope and potential weaking. Not too sure what the reasoning was though.
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Cool.
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Its on ice for the forseeable future.
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Well, makes sense, in a peculiar kind of way. Sounds like you need some winch spades.
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Are you kidding? I love a bit of nice dry pop on the woodburner, burns hot quick and clean, gets the house toasty in no time.
