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Chain Sharpening.. Acceptable discrepancy between teeth.


champagnecharly
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How do you add a pint of flour ? :confused1: My brother in law was happily using a saw which was producing nothing but smoke from the cut, he is a bit lax on maintenance though. He couldn't believe the difference when the saw was sharp and though it was something to do with the wood being softer. :lol:

 

 

Fill a pint jug up with flour I assume? It's a volume not weight thing

 

 

http://www.forestflooronline.co.uk/

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Thing with sharpening is that it is easy to learn but takes a lot to be good at it.

 

I've seen people go on courses and not been shown how to do it with calipers. Just do x number of strokes each side. Never was it said like this one side will always be longer. I've seen it done all from one side in a vice just doing alternate cutters; this i suppose is personal prefernce but screams hooked cutters to me.

 

Also most people will learn to sharpen one type of chain. Normally a .325 one and i can get a bloody good .325 sharpen my 3/8 isn't as good. Same technique just the execution is subtly different. Then you've got full and semi chisel one much less forgiving of sharpening.

 

I've also sent a guy for assessment many years ago with a husky roller guide and the assessor said to him "never seen anybody use of those before so i'll just have to take your word your using it right."

 

Poor sharpening is a bug bear of mine but i do understand people have to start somewhere 10 years ago my sharpening was probally poor. Although the we were shown caliper sharpening and the assessor measured teeth on the chain to see if they were ok. A CS30 course is at best a day doing the actual stuff so an understanding of accurate as possible is a must but an execution of +/- 1.5mm isn't bad. However someone doing a 4 week intensive course i would expect .5mm as a standard.

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In 18yrs ive sharpend many a saw. I can count on 1 finger how many times ive used calipers.

As with a driving test, you learn to pass the test. In the real world things work differently.i dont have time to fanny around makin sure of .5 tollerance accross the teath On all my saws.

Those who cite kickback due to sharpning limitations dont work in the real world. More academics i feel.

Poor saw use of the tip of the bar as we all know is the second major issue for kickback. First issuse is the idiot driving it.

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I have a tendency to sharpen harder one side than the other as I think most people do. Professionals have learnt to compensate for this.I put the chain on a bench grinder half way through its life. Teeth longer one side than the other gives the most problems on a processor as the bar is fixed and can not cut curves. Having uneven teeth also tends to wear one rail more on the bar so even when you get the teeth right you may be still cutting bananas.

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I've seen it done all from one side in a vice just doing alternate cutters; this i suppose is personal prefernce but screams hooked cutters to me.

 

 

Why would that cause hooked cutters? You'll get w*nker arm if you don't alternate! :lol::lol:

 

The best tip I can give anyone looking to improve their sharpening is to do it under a strong light. An anglepoise lamp with a daylight bulb positioned over the vice is the best way. It's amazing how much detail you can see under a strong light, and that will help you correct small errors and perfect your technique.

 

Oh, and a blunt file is like a blunt chain. So don't be tight, bin it and get a fresh one.

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Why would that cause hooked cutters? You'll get w*nker arm if you don't alternate! :lol::lol:

 

The best tip I can give anyone looking to improve their sharpening is to do it under a strong light. An anglepoise lamp with a daylight bulb positioned over the vice is the best way. It's amazing how much detail you can see under a strong light, and that will help you correct small errors and perfect your technique.

 

Oh, and a blunt file is like a blunt chain. So don't be tight, bin it and get a fresh one.

 

My thinking is that as you do the opposite side to the one facing you you bend the file a little bit giving a hooked profile.

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Good bright light causes the pupils to "stop" down, the finer aperture allows for a more forgiving focus, or better "depth of field" in camera speak.

So we literally can see better.(for those of of us of cough, cough, a certain age)

but

I much prefer reasonable natural daylight to any artifical light.

nb

Must put a micrometer on my chain sometime, just to see.(how good I am or am not)

Ditto some of the sharpened out chains hanging on a nail.

 

But, as a self taught .325 chain sharpener (semi chisel I think:blushing:) I use the wee Stihl file guide and judge by eye.

BUT:

I am a trifle OCD in ensuring that each tooth gets three full length file strokes, absolutly perpindicular to the tooth, i.e. following the tooth if/as it lies over in the bar, and religously rotating the file between each stroke and equally religiously cleaning the swarf off the file between each tooth, generally wiping on my arm or leg.

And always looking for curly wurly shavings, or large clean chips.

 

m

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