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spudulike

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Thought I would start a new thread as per the title and start it off with the below: -
A 254XP, lean seized - I have cleaned the cylinder of aluminium transfer, lightly abraded the cylinder with wet and dry, fitted a new piston and pressure checked it...all OK. Unusual as it had seized on inlet and outlet piston sides.
 
Compression measures 145psi but expect this to go up once fueled and run - the cylinder has some light scores but will run and have decent power once done.
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For motorcycles, if the cylinder was salvageable I was always told to put a hone down the bore rather than using wet and dry as I was told it can deposit the abrasive material from the paper into the cylinder bore.
However, I too have often used wet and dry. Are there fine enough and small enough hones to fit over square sub 50cc bores?
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For motorcycles, if the cylinder was salvageable I was always told to put a hone down the bore rather than using wet and dry as I was told it can deposit the abrasive material from the paper into the cylinder bore.
However, I too have often used wet and dry. Are there fine enough and small enough hones to fit over square sub 50cc bores?

Or is it because it’s Nikasil (spelling?)coating and that’s acceptable?
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We had this discussion a while ago, firstly, it is NIKASIL and the emery will have similar abrasives to a hone - Silicon Carbide/Carborundum and you simply do the work and then clean thoroughly with solvent and compressor. Anyone who says this can't be done - go talk to the guys I have rebuilt seized saws for still using them years afterwards!

I have used emery paper on localised damage and to smooth bevels, the hone will give a nice finished surface but don't go too mad, an engine doesn't take a view to how it looks but does note how well mating surfaces join together.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Had two saws in from a local contractor, one a MS441 and the other a MS461. The saws were known to me but one of their guys had offered to "look after them" before a big job. I am guessing he doesn't know how to fit E clips as one had fried the needle bearing to the point a Mapp gas torch was used to remove the drum, the other was as per the image, all three legs of the clutch boss missing and looking at the back plate, it had rotated another 1/4 turn tighter. I put a socket on the boss and found that even with a 4' extension it wasn't going to undo so, fearing the crank may bend or break, I took to grinding slots in either side and eventually, a blow with a cold chisel knocked the remains of the boss off.

Not one out of the book but the only way it was likely to be fixed. I checked the crank and it is straight so all good in the end. A little knowledge is sometimes dangerous - two mid size saws down isn't a good scenario, parts on order, sub 1 week repair time....all good!

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An old 261 ceased a few months back and it was leaking oil anyway so I brought a new one and put the old one to one side.
Had the truck in to have some work done on it today so thought rather than kicking my heals let’s get that old saw apart and see what bits I need to order.
I do not know how the poison ended up like this but I’m guessing some plonker has been shoving a screwdriver down thought the spark plug hole.

Guess it’s a new piston and barrel then [emoji848].

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42 minutes ago, Thesnarlingbadger said:

I do not know how the poison ended up like this but I’m guessing some plonker has been shoving a screwdriver down thought the spark plug hole.

More likely something has been ingested and bouncedaround the exhaust port a few times before exiting.

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