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the Honda information sheet I linked to doesn't say about reseting the gaps when warm, it just says If adjustment is necessary, proceed as follows: a. Hold the rocker arm pivot and loosen the rocker arm pivot lock nut. b. Turn the rocker arm pivot to obtain the specified clearance. c. Retighten the rocker arm pivot lock nut while holding the rocker arm pivot. TORQUE: 10 N·m (1.0 kgf·m, 7 lbt·ft) d. Recheck valve clearance after tightening the rocker arm pivot lock nut. Not sure if this reseting on a warm engine is the right thing to do? Anyway, at least it's running.

Back to my 661, the reason I was doing clutch springs is that it's been running on very badly during some HEAVY use recently. Maintaining a really high idle until I slowed the chain on some wood and then blipped the throttle. Should I do the M tronic reset? The rev it for two minutes thing.

I struggle to put my shoes on some days Mick 😀

I assume these are pier bits? What's the eventual repurposed use?

tbh, I’m impressed at you changing the head gasket. A few years ago you couldn’t change the oil filter on your chipper. I changed the H gasket on my grinder recently, admittedly with the guidance of my brother on FaceTime periodically, it’s not that easy for guys like us. Chapeau Stu!

Yes .,seems I WAS wrong 😀 Like you a assumed he had read it because he posted it . Assumptions , assumptions !

I've been using Stelite blades I was getting from Germany, but quite pricey. Today I was using a Ripper 37 Bi-metal blade, which is going through it very well. Will see on Monday how long a blade will last. Just taken the battered outside of a 6.6m length today and will start taking it down to 200x200 on Monday.

Aye, they were 3 tonnes at 7m when they were first lifted onto my trailer. Luckily I have a telehandler to move them about.

Funny story, I went out to a council yard who had purchased some Husqvarna 240r brush cutters, they were complaining of the clutch slipping and black gunge coming out of the clutch housing, I asked how often they pumped grease into the gearbox, oh every day they said with an air assisted greaser, they had actually forced grease right up the bloody tube and shaft to the point it was coming out of the top, priceless!

Todays pick.

What blades did you go with in the end ?

Old Christmas tree that went a bit mental. Drop zone was main issue on this one, but nothing broken that shouldn't be😁

You need a pressure tester mate, this will tell you straight away if the needle and seat are leaking, you will never get it to run properly with a leak at the needle, just looking at will not tell you if it is leaking.

Hang on. I’m reading it again and there actually is a bit of nuance along the lines of, “Tree surgeons are criminals that cut down well beloved trees and arborists are better than that.” Not much but it is there. Fvcksake, AA. Grow up.

I tend to agree, whilst the US has picked up the slack and Trump gets slated the fact of the matter is the western NATO countries with the exception of a couple of members have gutted their armed forces to the point that they are virtually useless. The UK in particular has huge problems at the minute, whilst we have politicians grandstanding about “ the coalition of the willing” the reality is we couldn’t even begin to defend our own country never mind venture farther afield. We can’t even stop a few dinghies crossing the channel at the minute.

Shaft blind drilled to a cross drilled grease port. Got it. Yes. Good idea. Unless it doesn’t matter. But I’d probably grease a Husky if it’s as easy as that.

There is a hole in the end of the shaft that allows you to pump grease through to a hole which sits directly under the Husqvarna needle cage bearing, no need to remove anything to grease it. There is a hole on the end of the shaft On a Stihl, unfortunately it has no function, amazed that Stihl hasn’t adopted this design, especially with the amount of MS261 fails that I have seen coming in on training courses.

Guessing that's pre 2003 on Stihl ?, that's about the oldest I've used and kept running including changing clutch springs with screwdriver and needle nose pliers.

We have one used it twice the chain is far to aggressive for the size of the machine and the bar length if you don’t hold it tight with both hands it will rip it of your grasp,The stihl gt40 much better to use ,I am a big Milwaukee fan but not of this ,

Husqvarna needlecage bearings are still made from metal, Stihl only changed them around the time they updated to MS261/362 etc from the earlier models.

https://ia902302.us.archive.org/33/items/Asterixcompleteset/Asterix/02- Asterix and the Golden Sickle.pdf

One would also assume the needle cage bearing are made of glass fibre not just for strength but effectively a glass bearing surfaces against the stainless needles. They do make glass bearings for that reason, no lube ever required, usually the cage fails before the glass beads.

Same headstock as Avant.

Spot on. If you're going to grease, then do it weekly , to the point of squeezing out the excess dust and shit contaminated crap out, replacing with fresh clean grease. Wipe off grease nipples/torx bolts first to keep everything clean, and don't drag the nozzle of your grease gun through all the dust and gravel in your yard. Fail here and your just injecting grinding paste straight into the heart