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An impact wrench with 500nm of torque will stop turning a big auger long before a drill with 250nm. Impact wrenches provide jolts of peak torque to fulfil their design function of loosening or tightening a machine thread. All that happens when you stick an auger on them is that the tensile strength of the wood fibres absorbs the jolt of toque and the auger fails to advance any further. Impact drivers are use to drive screws into wood, yes, but the purpose of the jolts of torque there is to prevent cam out- where the driver bit slips in the head. Driver bits with a positive lock on the fiuxing head (such as timberlocks with their hex head) do not require an impact driver and will in fact drive far faster with the sustained torque offered by a drill. I must have explained this a dozen times over the years on here, and yet still people just can't grasp such a simple fact. A long arm brace on a quality drill allows you to impact far more torque into a wood thread or auger bit than you ever could with an impact gun.

I was more lucky, when in the market for a 50cc ish saw 15 years ago the chap persuaded me to spend the bit extra and get the 261. Still got it.

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It’s a 5 day course that will teach you everything you need to know in order to pass. If you’re got previous climbing experience you will be fine.

Morning all, Looking hot. Water water.

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Morning All.

Morning all . Cool start with clear sky but later ....Sun high in sky and much hot . 🙂

Good misty morning to you. Off to Berkshire. Hopefully not too toasty. Have a good one

Ouch 😁 that's me told . Sorry mate if you are a real person ( and I believe that you are now ) but we have had a lot of AI generated posts lately and it seemed like yours might be . My bad .

Well it was an exceptionally ridiculous question. If you keep running into stupid pricks on stupid forums, maybe frame your question in a more intelligent manner.

I was in the market for a 50cc ish saw, I was feeling a bit tight and got persuaded into getting a stihl 271 instead of a husky 550 (or a 261) What a POS! I kept thinking something was wrong with it. Bit the bullet in the end and got the first of my 550s Never again.

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Good morning Arbtalkers 😊

Up too early! Hydration is the word on the day! Be safe y 'all. Hack, Jaw, Rage.

Another stupid prick on another stupid forum!

Hi, It's two tie ins to the tree at all times for climbing, two climbing lines and a lanyard for change overs. I would strongly recommend getting some training so you will know what to expect and have some practice at the scenarios and theory side off it too.

In pork and cider with potatoes.

Thanks for that mate. Could a lanyard not count as a secondary line? Or it has to be 2 full blown main lines? If so, surely it’s allowed to ascend the tree on one line, and then tie in your second whilst up there? Cheers tho mate

My leeks are coming ready already i associate leeks with winter soups and cheesy sauce any ideas on light summer receipes?

When I did my 38, from memory it was you could ditch your secondary climbing system when you started descending with the dummy, depending on what rescue method you choose to employ. As for cambium savers, we had the option, and probably more of a pain than they are worth, especially if you get the order of operations mixed up when installing it. At lowe maintenance (where I did my 38) no time limit on getting a line into the tree, also the assessor is a local cutter, and was very decent about the whole thing. on the rescue it was already in the tree. Dummy was probably about 10-15 ft up, so not stupid hight. Spikes are used on the pole rescue, but all the limb walking etc was just done with boots Think that's everything, lmk if not. Main thing is to remember is that on the 38, your not expected to be swinging about the tree like a monkey, and it's more about proving your safe and compitant when it comes to moving around the canopy. You will however be required to climb on 2 main systems, primary and secondary (can change over) and you can't have more than 500mm slack in any system at any time. That's HSE guidelines

Hi people. I’m used to climbing MRS no SRT experience whatsoever. And always using one main line and a lanyard. also I’ve never used a cambium saver. I’m going for my 38 soon and just want to know exactly what to expect. Will I be expected to rescue a climber using 2 lines? Will I be expected to use a cambium saver for each line? How much time do they allow you to get your line into the tree. And finally high up the tree will the rescue dummy be situated? I’ve also heard of people using spikes on their CS38. If anyone could let me know that’d be awesome. Cheers

All the trees do belong to Property 4. They have offered 50% contribution to having that entire horizontal row reduced in height by alot. But some of Properties 123 refuse to contribute and are adamant it's property 4 sole responsibility to have them paid for. I personally dont agree with that, but that's only one opinion of 4. re: all the bits of the hedge affect all 3 properties... i probably did say above that the only evergreen portions of this that are >2M are the Laurels and Coniffers. Obviously the preferred outcome for most of the properties here would be that if council were formally brought into this, they'd only order a reduction in height for the evergreens over 2M. The truth is if all the deciduous came down in height too, all 4 gardens would lose alot of privacy, not to mention the shame for wildlife and environmental benefits etc. I do think that'd be the worst outcome personally. I wonder if Property 4 paid just to have the evergreen ones reduced to 2M we could avoid this whole fiasco. All things considered what do you think?