kram
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Everything posted by kram
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Its hard to fail cs30-31 unless your working unsafe. Doesnt matter how bad you are at a hinge, he will be watching for chain brake and how you move with the saw. Be as slow as you like on the felling. What was wrong with the ms212?
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Ryobi and some other brands make a long reach version which I think would be safer. I want one on a 4m telescopic pole stick but yet to find anything suitable. I may have to make an adaptor for the Fiskar/Magnusson poles.
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Opening the throttle, will move the accelerator pump if it has one, could be that the oring seal has started to fail and letting air in, until the throttle moves it. That is a massive guess. My only experience with the problem is a newish husq carb that wouldnt purge or start as a result. At first it was intermittent, sometimes purging and starting fine. I cant see any reason why mine would have failed unless they are using substandard orings on this part, but then I'd expect it to be far more common.
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It wasnt me, I have all my digits and intend to keep it that way!
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Mine has been a great tool, using it all the time. Whole trees pruned with it as its quicker, better cuts than a saw.. Seen this elsewhere and thought it should be shared as a warning - turn them off when not cutting! I dont always use the chain brake on my saws but I always turn these off. He said, he was dragging brambles with it held and turned on, something caught the trigger.
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Would anyone know the Alko part number for the hitch damper? Forst part number 12-10-392. Forst want quite a premium, about 4x the parts normal cost, £180 Alko 161 or 251 are £40-50. Edit: bit of a pain to get out but since its not working we leave it out until a new part arrives. A quick look for 583829 shows about £70. Odd that it appears to have different part numbers for each language, or am I reading it wrong?
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A new CE version... Price has gone up! Interesting they have dropped stainless for the body, it is now made of steel with a chrome finish. Needed to pass en326? I'd like one but not at 60 quid! Notch CE Quickie – Compact, CE-Certified Connector for Arborists HONEYBROS.COM The Notch CE Quickie is a compact, CE-certified steel connector designed for arborists. Tree-friendly, lightweight, and perfect for redirects, anchors.
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You should replace the gasket, they wont run properly if theres an air leak. The feeler has a narrow tip, I was going to modify a standard one but really not worth the effort! Clearances should be checked on a cold engine. Turn to TDC and check its the compression stroke with both rockers free to move.
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Valve Clearance Setting Kit for Stihl FS90, FS91 Brushcutters - OEM No. 4180 007 1005 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Valve clearance setting kit Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 4180 007 1005 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: FS83, FS83T, FS90, FS90R, FS100... Mistake.. 67p!
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Perhaps your problem is not with Stihl but instead, trusting your local dealer to service them, who likely think they can sell you a new machine instead of an easy fix. The Br800 is a 4 mix engine, generally they just need the valves adjusted which is a very simple, easy, 10 minute job, you need a gaset/feeler gauge set which costs all of 50p.
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It does look like a significant fungus infection at the base and possibly roots. If it were me I would ask the local council tree officer to inspect, they could likely identify it. It looks significant enough I'd suggest they give permission for removal.
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If its a weak machine I could weld a baffle to reduce the size of the hole by an inch. Sounds like these are running a bit near their maximum and feeding it easier work might double its life?
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Great to know someone that has done a weld repair. I was also thinking reinforcement needed. You welded in situ? We dont want to strip it. I assume your Kempi is a mig? I have a Sherman 200A tig/stick welder, I'm no good at mig! Unsure to use basic 6013/er70 or the better 7018/er80, stronger but more likely to crack... Might be better if we find a pro welder to do it. We are not trying to be cheap but £5k for a replacement fitted flywheel is too much... Would you have a photo of the Jensen? If not I'll search for it when I get home. I doubt the fan blades themselves see much force but looks as though they reinforce the flywheel. When it works they are a great machine ( not that I have experience of others) and will swallow up anything that fits in the hole. Perhaps we should be more careful what we feed it?
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My friend has problems with his ST6P and this thread came up. Has anyone had problems with cracks on the flywheel fan blade welds? They want to replace the flywheel but its extremely expensive. Its a 2017. The main issue, the feed roller snapped and is getting repaired. I am wondering if this can be welded in situ, grind out the cracks and re weld. I'm not a professional welder but can do TIG and stick. I am unsure about something this size however - it should likely be preheated to avoid cracking, and very difficult to heat something that size, in place, without over heating anything else. It will be a very heavy lump so no chance of us stripping it out ourselves.
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£29.. may be worth a try as amazon returns are easy.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Housing-Handle-STIHL-MS440-Chainsaw/dp/B07BW3Z1QX
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A cordless ratchet is a great tool, they dont have the hammer or power of an impact wrench so are not going to strip any heads. Great when theres bad access to a bolt. If the heads are covered in shite, you need to clean that, whatever tool your using.
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500i? This is all my mate uses when his MS151 is too small.
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Done. Video did not work out as it was pointing at my feet! I've never been good with videos. Much of it was already removed which they did with hand saws, must have taken ages. I started somewhere halfway up. Gentle angled cuts then touch in the middle, and it often pings off. Once I had a cut all along I wedged it futher from the wall with some cuttings, that gave clearance to cut along the bottom and then the top with no risk to the chain. I dont have a suitable ladder here, so couldnt properly reach the roof. Carefull nibbling away at the ivy got the wall cleared. My chain was already a little blunt and I did touch a few times early on, it'll sharpen up ok. I always use cheap chains for this sort of job. I used the 020T.
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Can you put some pictures up? I would not choose Stihl for any battery tools, from what I have seen they are well behind other power tool manufacturers. Having searched the part number, the motor appears to be a cheapy 775 size DC motor.This is not a proper tool motor - but the sort of thing you expect from a Lidl. These motors overheat for fun, not suitable for this sort of work. You may be able to easily swap it. The difficulty will be removing the gear from the motor shaft and re installing on a new motor. They are likely a shrink/interferance/press fit. The problem is it will likely happen again. I would suggest a different brand with brushless motor. Stihls homeowner grade battery tools are junk.
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Noticed this a few times, is there a way to turn it off and just show me all posts in date order?
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You cant just fell your neighbours garden trees without their permission. I believe council are only relevant if TPO or conservation area, but still requires the owners permission. You can trim back to your boundry but thats it. Without permission would be tresspass, criminal damage and possibly more. Not to mention, if there is a genuine reason for removal, example tree being dangerous, the owner should be paying for its maintence.
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If the top is struggling that would suggest to me a root problem or rot preventing adequate nutrients from being absorbed. Have you a photo at the base of the tree?
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Not feeling like it today, I've caught the snots and a bad headache, dont want to spread it to my friends.. Technique is simple, do a 45 degree angled cut most the way through the ivy. Repeat this a couple inches away. Next, touch the bottom nose of the saw somewhere between the cuts, and the peice will ping off towards you. I shall attempt to get a video tomorrow.
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Its a very short wall, end and back wall of a garage. Its grown into and around the roof so there will be no peeling it off in sheets before cutting along the top. the bits grown inside the roof will be left to die and then removed later. I wont be damaging tools or the brick! I quite enjoy my chainsaw method as I use the bar nose to ping the pieces off in a controlled way. Peeling is enjoyable yes, quite often I would peel everything out of a tree, cut and pull, amazing how strong it is I'd like to try the brush cutter, I just dont know if its suitable. Its certainally not a tool to try out with a paying customer watching but this is just a friends garage and I get to park next to it. I may have a go in afternoon.
