kram

I like the saw, it was nice enough to use, I will likely repair and keep it. Stihls on the other hand are ear piercingly loud, and about as unpleasant noise as the german language - sounds like somone trying to vomit. Nothing against the Germans, just dont let them speak! Anyway as said before, I'm a climber. I have an Echo 2511 (and its clone), Makita Uc002, Stihl 020T, all great saws that I enjoy using. This Lidl was for low cutting/roots abuse, the stuff I wouldnt want to do to a good saw, and it did this well. I have a G372Xp clone for chogging down anything the 020T cant handle. Next failure of the day, my newish Makita HP001 combi drill, which is the best one they do, first time using it in hammer mode, I believe the gearbox has shit itself, so that is going back tomorrow. Was it @AHPP that warned me about this drill?

Chain adjuster is shite. The bevel gear of the side adjuster is only held by the thin wear plate. I may repair it myself. However I think its the same or shares parts with every other generic chinese ground saw, so should be easy to find another.

A while ago I ordered the Makita brushcutter attachement for the battery split shaft. I can say its excellent! Prefer it to my petrol one. I've used Stihl's in the past, this is better. It comes with a skinny 2mm "four leaf clover" - rounded square profile cord. I was skeptical but cuts grass and thicker weeds well, including bramble, and lasts ages Hardly used any cord for a large garden. Ordered a roll of their thicker 2.4mm of the same type, £41 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09M2288T9

That changes things, if your selling! Surveyor is unlikely to look at the roots as they will be well hidden, under dirt, in the neighbours garden!

My opinion a small front garden fence line is not an appropriate location for that tree. I'd remove it. You could have it reduced quite hard but then your setting yourself up for a 3 year cycle of expensive maintenece pruning.

Never used them but they do appear a genuine shop.. I note they only appear to stock parts and not machines, their parts are pattern imports.

Retopping a leylandii jungle, one of the widest I've been in and a pain to throw the tops. It was very hot up there yesterday! Lots of dead in the middle that was constantly catching on my gear and rope. There was also a multi stem holly I pruned, horrible things! VID_20250618_102756.mp4 Then I saw this on the way home. Ladders and a bowsaw! The second ladder was stacked sideways on the limb. Old guy, working on his own and it would have ended badly! I had to stop and see what he was doing. He wanted it raised above his driveway - I had the pole stick so it was a 5 min job to clear all the lower stuff I didnt charge but he gave me some beer money.

"Smart chargers" I have found to be cheap rubbish and often dont appear to do work. Single button and a few LED's doesnt make it smart. Lead acid batteries are extremely basic to charge anyway. What I'd recommend is a lipo charger from the RC world - these actually are smart and can do nearly every different battery type. The advantage is they also do discharge, most have a screen and can tell you exactly how much charge has gone in or out of the battery, so you get a fair idea of its condition. As a general rule, manufacturers over spec lead batteries about 4x what they need to, as they degrade over time. When they get down to a third or quater capacity, its time to replace.

Have you adjusted the chute? are the fan blades and chute clear? What are you chipping? Palm can wrap around and clog things up, I'm told - well I've seen it wrapped tightly around the main shaft bearing and a pain to get out. Open the lid and get some photos of the fan blade.

Got these yesterday at a good price from local climbing wall. Second pic was from managers personal stash, he hoards kit and hes been told he has to sell some!

I'd guess you have the previous DUC150? This UC029 has only been released this week and very few shops seem to be stocking it. The power has increased consdierably, doubled, on this one. Guard should be coming off first thing for any competent chainsaw user.

If its assembled correctly it shouldnt be loose. A bottle of loctite is your friend. While my above advice on the bearing collar is worth looking at, also check that the feed roller is correctly located, the shaft has a dimple for the grub screw to locate in. You dont want the grub screw to bite into the plain shaft as it will also marr it up and make it a pain to extract in future.

That will be idential to this in different colours, amazon or ebay may have the same saw from about £50 delivered. 25.4cc JonCutter G2500 Top Handle Arborist Gasoline Chainsaw Power Head With Saw Chain and Guide Bar from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM 25.4cc JonCutter G2500 Top Handle Arborist Gasoline Chainsaw Power Head With Saw Chain and Guide Bar... Currently I would say the Makita UC002/UC003 is very hard to beat for ~£210-270. You'll need to also spend 70 for a 2.5ah battery and 50 for a charger, but a second 4ah battery will be with you in a month. Not quite the power of a 201 but it runs a 12" bar no problem. ThenI highly recommend the UC006 hedger and Ux001 split shaft power unit, each with a free battery.

Looks to me that the blue bearing secures to the shaft by a grub screw on the collar. I would loosen the grub screw and twat the shaft with a drift and club hammer gain equal clearance on each side. It looks like there is nothing else to set the axial positioning but as theres no axial loading it shouldnt be nessasary to have any thrust bearing.

Mitox are importers and dont make anything themselves. There are clones of the 2511 topper but I've not yet seen any with the rear handle. I like the clones.

A few shops are starting to list the UC029 Makita 40v XGT 150mm Brushless Pruning Saw UC029GZ WWW.ELSONS.CO.UK The Makita UC029GZ is a high-performance 40V XGT pruning saw designed for efficient, smooth cutting of...

Looks like they do the top handle in red, I want! 25ap is 1/4" pitch and 80TXL is speedcut nano. The top is supposed to be 1400w and the others 1600w, so its hardly worth looking at them. Perhaps in future they will do a bigger motor, dual battery 80v version. Also I have seen there is a BAP001G adaptor in Japan, to have the heavy batteries on a waste or shoulder strap and much less weight on the tool. 70 quid off amazon.jp so for now I will stick with the light batteries.

Hard to say from the photo, but you say its dropping 4" branches. The small group that look directly over garage, dont look like they would do any damage, but photos can be decieving.

Is the feed housing bent? Do you have a photo or video showing it?

While tree may be on neighbours land and his repsonsibilty, it does overhang the boundry and you are entiltled to maintain anything on your side, or cut right back, as you see fit. . It may be cheaper and easier than presenting him with a repair bill. Do you have a few photos of the tree ?

Or hit a window!

My pair of Arbortech BreatheFlex are living up to the name! May get another repair out of them but the outer material is rubbish, rips far too easily.

I use 3/8LP full chisel with a carving bar on the 2511, carving bar more because its smaller, lighter and can get into tighter spaces. I prefer it for pruning work and a normal bar for removals. 3/8lp full chisel is the smoothest cutting I have found for a top handle. Smoothest I mean the nicest cut quality and best for nibbling away at the ends of long skinny branches. With semi chisel on 1/4" I found it can bounce and rip these more than it cuts, the shredded tips look is not good. With a newish chain, long length cutters, it doesnt like plunge cutting - the cutters going to rub with the small nose radius, slow to do anything with the nose, but it does cut. The top and bottom of bar cut beautifully. Once the chain is half worn with a few sharpens it should have no problem with plunge cuts. I was going to try the 2511 bars as I have a spare, on the uc002 but the mounting is too narrow - chain would rub the casing.

I havent understood the purpose of saftry bumpers, as they would always be lower than the rakers and not touching wood...? Powdery chips, as would with high rakers? or does it suck power out of the cut?

I see the harness didnt stop you falling in! Might seem a daft question, why wear a harness on a boat or standing in a stream? Is it just for the convienece of stowing the saw? Or to stop the boat floating away when you jumped out?