kram

The launcher tube currently looks like that but I havent glued the sections yet. Made a lead filled throw weight for it. TPU so its flexible, its not going to shatter. Only had black or white, so used both. Not as heavy as I wanted. I'll adjust the size to get more lead in and print a few more. First time making lead shot, should have done it before I started it printing!

Two Irish lads are strolling down a street in Liverpool, England, when they spot a shop window that reads: Suits £10, Jackets £7.50, Trousers and Dresses £5.00. One turns to the other and says, "Would ya look at those ******' prices? We could buy a boatload, haul it back to Ireland , and make a fortune — double, maybe even treble the money!" The other lad says, "That’s a grand idea, but d’ya think they’ll sell to us if they know we’re Irish?" The first lad grins and says, "Don’t worry, I’ve got this," and walks in, putting on his finest English accent: "Good afternoon! I'd like twenty suits, thirty jackets, fifty pairs of trousers, and twenty-five dresses, please." The shop assistant squints and says, "You’re Irish, aren’t you?" The lad replies, "Ah feck, how’d ya guess?" The assistant smiles and says, "This is a dry cleaners."

Looking at an oak today, noticed this fungi on a buttress root. When touched, there were visible white spores released. Looks like they are well past their best, is it possible to identify them from the photo? Photo of the whole tree, its the closer one.

Pipe has been shortened but a 12oz does not fit well in 38mm pipe, it really wants to be the less common 42mm pipe. Instead I'm 3d printing the tube. Looking at a tree tomorrow and hopefully suitable to test it out. hmm?

This 20v 400w? 20 V pruning saw | Kress WWW.KRESS.COM The Kress 20 V pruning saw is designed for effortless control in tight spaces. Its ultra-compact, lightweight build makes it ideal for trimming branches... I imagine then its similar to the £60 20v Fakita, which I quite like too.

Interesting, slightly lighter than the Makita, slightly less power but near enough the same. Tool on its own is cheaper at £159. Might go well with a DCS3500T but what for the other tool?

Air launcher has arrived. I went for the significantly lighter alu tanked version which cost a bit more. I'll get a plastic pipe to make the barrel tomorrow, thread is 1.5" bsp, plumbing shop will have it.

Just to repeat if you were to jump it from a other power source, it does not need or want to be 36v and not directly to another battery. Once its about 20-30v total, the Stihl charger shouldnt have anything to complain about, it will be within the normal range of a discharged battery. It should be done in a way thats current limited. You can get cheap current limiting boards off amazon for nearly nothing. You should be able to find something on how to set it up on YT. You want to start with only 100miliAmps until it gets to 20v or so then let the proper Stihl charger finish it off. 18v battery or mains power supply -> limiter board -> dead battery.

Interesting, what would these look like in 3 or 5 years when its grown a bit?

Yes TTI own them but Milwaukee is based in the US, even if most of the tools are contracted out to China.

Dremmel is shite, made by Bosch. Much better to get the Milwaukee M12BLROT. It is a very rare thing when I buy or recommend anything American, but in this case they have got it right. Annoyingly now that I have the M12 platform, I cant see anything else worth getting.

The above statue thing is a bit shit, this one works better. https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/imageTo3d?from=makerlab Anyway thought I'd test it on a 2511 exhaust cover. It didnt like a white background so found a pic of a dirty used one off ebay. Very unlikely it will be correct but Im printing it anyway. I can then scale and adjust to fit. Edit, the result The size is quite far off, 20% and more in depth. I'll try again using a video instead of single image, maybe something simpler.

Ah not all cars had seatbelts, tho most will have been retrofitted if they are still on the road, except vintage cars.. Where as near enough every car has a 5v1 threaded schrader valve, except some fancy airless run flat tyres.

Theres likely a good number 8V1-32 and 5V1-36 is the most visible and a right arse if one wants to get a tap or die to make a custom compatable part, taps and dies are not generally available although can get them from china.

Old Makita LXT's were designed with three fusable links in the BMS, if you fully discharged them and tried on a normal charger, each attempt it would blow a link, three goes and done. However if you recovered the cells to normal it would charge fine but they never reset. After 3 blow, you have to replace the PCB with a knockoff one which are available from aliexpress etc quite cheapily. I doubt knockoff Stihl PCB's are available. You can get knockoff makita /dewalt/milwaukee etc.. battery sets cheap, this sort of thing. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001577209628.html Anyway heres a video of a AP300 being scrapped for parts. The pcb is by the lights and sealed, you cant get at it without destroying the pack. Certainally not designed to be repaired!

I've learned, measure the bits because they are not always on size. For the small Stihl chains, no one sells a 3.2mm bit specifically for chainsaws, however a worn 4mm bit, works very well. Theres also 3.2mm bits in most diamond bit sets. I got a load of them from amazon. I did try with the fancy guides that screw on the tool but its much better free hand.

Theres equal chance its just flat. A lot of packs do not have any fuse or mosfet capable of disconnecting the packs, often connections go directly to the tabs and the BMS is only there for charging and monitoring.

I didnt have anywhere decent to rest the camera so this is not a great example.. I did miss on the second tooth but no harm done to it. VID-20251212-WA0004.mp4 Rotary grinder is good for these. Razor sharp and better than a file will get it. You only need to concentrate on the angle and let it work a couple seconds per tooth. Move it just a little so the bit wears evenly. I hold the chain in one hand and also use that to advance the chain, it works really well but you could do it on a bench etc.. This is the only decent cordless option, Milwaukee M12BLROT. https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/milwaukee-m12-blrot-0-12v-brushless-rotary-tool-body-only

So the broken part is no 14 in this diagram, the cover with the fixed shaft. 22 and 23 are the spinny bits and are retained by 24/25 that sit in the broken circlip groove. The shaft has a torx end but looks like its only for assembly purposes? Does the shaft remove from the plastic cover? I might be able to repair that easily, or turn a new one on lathe. Another option, if you measure and draw the part up in a CAD program, you could get a new one machined quite cheapily with https://jlccnc.com/ I've not used them myself but I know of somone who was prototyping a climbing device and he got them to make the parts.

Not in the way that describes. If your going to try connecting the battery to anything to "jump start" it, it should not be another battery or high current device, it needs to be done with a current limit. This sort of thing, but it will need power from an 18v battery or similar https://www.amazon.co.uk/POFET-Buck-Boost-Programmable-Adjustable-Automatic/dp/B0D93WBZ7F There are more expensive ones that power themselves but for a one off use... https://www.amazon.co.uk/adjustable-switching-precision-charging-interface/dp/B09C8MT4KM You need to have it on constant current mode, 100mA. After 5 seconds, measure if the battery has taken any charge. Once its up to 20v, try it on the stihl charger. Fully charged is 42v.

@Fatboy2017 battery packs are connected like this. The thin wires are for the BMS to monitor and adjust the cells and keep the voltage within limits. Your pack has 10 cells in series, so imagine that diagram went upto 10 and the thick red wire is connected on 10. Except the pack is doubled, so theres a other 10 cells that are connected exactly the same - so cell1 in diagram is two cells.

Do not do the above. You may aswell pour petrol on the pack and torch it...

Do you have a photo of the broken part?

Yes some people do this. It can damage the cells and cause fires, sometimes delayed. The problem is some cells are likely near full, while others near empty. Large currents can flow when you connect two packs together and it can push cells well past there 4.2v limit. The only safe way to do it is with a balance charger as a pack, or by charging individual pairs to the same voltage, they need to all measure the same. It needs to be done at a slow rate, too. If you must, do it outside on a dry day, charge it outside then keep it in a weather proof box, outside for a few days or a week. If it does burn while your asleep, your house, family and tools will be safe. Anyway first thing is get a volt meter on the external tabs to see how much charge it has.

Assuming the battery has no warranty, batteries can usually be recovered. Lithium cells like to burn if not used properly so this takes some care. Do it in a fireproof, dry place. AP200 is a 20 cell, 10 series 2 parallel battery, 10x 2.5Ah cells in series to get 36v, two rows of 10 in parallel to get 5Ah. The first check is using a multimeter on the + and - tabs, what is the overall battery voltage? Chargers usually refuse to charge cells that have dropped below about 1.5v. With the battery opened up, the next check is how well it is balanced - check each pair and note it down. If any are below 1.5v they need to be charged slow, at 100mA or so. Buy a cheap RC charger - few go up to 10 cells so you will have to individually charge every pair, or you could charge 5 pairs at a time with balance leads. Once its recovered it should charge normally on the stihl charger.