kram

I had a short play with wide webbing straps, did not like it, unsure if thin webbing would be any better. I like the idea of a mini ratchet strap, but the small ones would be too bulky. I have some ideas.. File works but unless you unmount the spike from the shank, which is in the way, its a pain. A file only cuts one way and the handle is on the side with no access. I used p240 paper on a flat bit of steel, and a pair of fine diamond files.

I didnt see this and booted it whilst trimming a leylandii hedge, also next to an oak. What was it?

How many of you get your spikes sharpened or do it yourself? From what I've seen, rarely done as the 5+ pairs I used before were all quite blunt.

They had already arrived a couple days before I started the thread. The threads purpose was more to see which fastening type people prefer as I knew I'd want to replace the lower straps. Theres nothing wrong with them once sharpened and new straps. Possibly made in same factory, Notch stuff is all made somewhere in the east.

How are carbon spikes for durability? I'll be honest that if weight was a concern I should loose 30kg first, and I'm not really noticing the added weight. I have the assumption that carbon would be brittle and easily damaged in storage etc ? Comfort around the foot would be nice. If someone made a climbing boot with a steel plate built in, that the spike and calf pad just bolt onto, on the side, without the need for a lower strap, that would pry my wallet open. I see newer models have rubber pads under spike and under boot to make it more gripy, makes sense so I might add some thin rubber to the Vevors.

Interested how it compares with motor in the head. That nob sticking out is going to catch on things, I think.

Had them both with me and remembered to do a video. I've been using both for hedging. Feels similar in capabilty. This was cutting lime. However from the video, the Makita appears twice as quick, likely due to the .325 vs 1/4" chain. Cheapy feels like it has quicker chain speed. VID-20250923-WA0002.mp4 First cuts, Makita 3 vs cheapy 6 seconds. The second Makita cut was a smaller peice than cheapy, but 8 vs 17 seconds, its a lot quicker. The Makita has needed some chain tightening (loosen, unloosen the nut) while the cheapy has needed nothing so far. I'd want to do more testing before I'd recommend either. Today didnt climb with them, just for snedding on the ground.

Only tried them for an hour or so. Now I didnt adjust the shin guard, needs to be higher I think but that didnt cause any comfort issues the pads are comfy. The spikes arrived, as expected, blunt and rounded - consider import stuff a loosely assembled box of parts. So last night I watched a quick YT or two and gave them a quick sharpen. Note that I have a lot of experience sharpening tools bht never done spikes before. Best spikes I've ever used. Being sharp makes so much difference. However I was using the original TPU straps, quickly my feet felt like the top was being squashed and I had to take off. New buckle straps will fix that Im certain.

I've done it with lots of other things. My shaver for example, swapped the weak 18650 1.2ah cells for 3ah. Years back I did it on several bluetooth headphones, they had 60-120mah little lipo pouch cells. I did upgrade a couple with much larger cells, I had to modifiy the plastic case. The better one, I took the case off entirely and set it in epoxy - it needed to fit in motorbike lid, great until it fell down a storm drain. Basicically anything thats not using 18650 cells is likely to be lipo pouch cells. However there are some new types to be aware of - instead of a max voltage of 4.2v, some now go upto 4.35v. If you put a standard 4.2v cell in a 4.35v device, you are likely to get fire. The old one should be marked, also you can measure it when fully charged to be sure.

Different kind of spikes... I've been doing some hedging today, next to an oak, wearing my hedging trainers, they are great for being up a ladder. Every time I stood on an acorn in just the right place, one of these sods was poking through then retracting back into the foam. Three attempts to clean inside before I suspected something in the foam. Pulled about 20 from the right shoe and 3 from the left ! Any guess what they are from? Its a few months since I did any spikey hedges or brash dragging in trainers.

I wanted to buy branded spikes but the price has doubled in the few years I've been working, I think its a rip off. I ordered these clones. Couple of reciews say they need a sharpen out of the box, replace the plastic tpu bottom straps immediately. The top foam appears comfy, the metal bits are all good. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0DHBKQYXW

The webbing and buckles on all of them appears to be the wide sort, I'm wondering if it will get in the way or get caught on things? Better if it were narrow like the normal leather straps? Or is the wide sort, not a problem? I saw this video ages ago but never tried it. It makes good sense, but its not going to work with thick webbing. Just been having a look at Notch and Buckingham's, instead of normal webbing adjusters (goes through and back through, locking on itself) the buckle ones seem to use single hole and velco adjustments?! Sort of defeats the point of the buckle?! Distel does use the webbing adjustment type and velcro, which I think could work, they are the only ones with branded AustriaAlpin Cobra buckles. If I dont want velcro on the lower straps, I'm thinking to make up some with AustriaAlpine Cobra 25mm buckles and webbing. First I have some cheapy amazon "tactical belt" webbing with buckles, I may try that on some spikes just to see how well it works before I decide anything. I'll have a backup rope for that test.. got a suitable tree on Tues to have a play with.

I explained badly, all NPTC tickets. For the rail ones, hedge and brush cutter, we had been using the tools for months so didnt get any training except the new giy got a brief half hour lesson by other staff. I left rail before doing any more. Cs30,31,38,39 were trained by an old guy who called himself an assesor. I wanted to skip the training to just have the assesments thorugh him, as I knew what I was doing, knew how to do the cuts, used chainbrake correctly etc.. He insisted in training and that he couldnt then assess me, so I'd have to wait, he dragged it out over several months...and then he doubled his training cost for cs38 39 and I had to pay it or find someone else which I'd already tried and given up on.. He got somone over from Ireland who apparently assesses other instructors. Well that would explain why the standards are a bit shite then... ..Those that can't, teach...

My experience is the opposite, assesors tend to hand out certificates without much care if the student is any good at it. Hedger and brush cutter was paid for by rail boss, was 10 minutes talk, couple minutes cutting each, then given the slip of paper, told to turn our phones off and disapear until 4pm, this was at about 8:30am. One of them was 100% green never used outdoor tools before. A week later, he is using hedger above his head, drops and catches it, amputating his finger. It got sewn back on.. Doing my CS31, one of the guys was unsafe, cut through his hinge, he didnt know the different felling cuts and had to be taughg by assesor, and didnt have proper control of a saw. Assesor passed him anyway, knowing he was in work for a local company and should quickly learn. The other guy was unable to safely use a saw and got told to find a different industry. When it came to cs38/39, the first guy had greatly improved and could now use a saw correctly, but was green with climbing, knots etc... he passed. Between the assesor, trainer and the other student, one of them stole my long sling and a carabiner.

Spikes, what do you use and what type of fastening do they have around the foot - have you tried other types? I've used Distel's and a few others, all had worn out leather straps, found them a pain to get on and needed a few adjustments before they were secure for climbing. I want to get my own pair with a different type, likely the webbing buckles.

I recommend getting an Imax B8, B6 or the various off brand clones (of a chinese item). This is intended for RC lithium charging but it will also do a very good job of lead acid, telling you exactly how much charge has done in, how much was in it with a discharge test. Generally Pb batteries are over rated abot 4x becuase of the way they degrade, this makes them last about 10x longer than if a smaller battery was specified. I generally say if measures at 50% capacity its time to be aware of future problems. At 25-40% you can expect problems if you leave lights on or dont give it ample chance to recharge. Below 20% you should expect problems, keep a jump starter with you and consider replacing. However theres little point replacing one if it will be used once, left to discharge for three years and then need replacing again.

To be honest if you have feet that much bigger than sensible, normal sizes, you likely need them made to measure - theres little more irritating than badly fitted boots! These list size 15 as being euro 50, but withna 4 week lead time.and possibly French. Solidur KAILASH Chainsaw Boots | Class 2 Chainsaw Safety Boots SEVSAFE.CO.UK Arborist's Solidur KAILASH chainsaw boots with Class 2 chainsaw protection, excellent foot support, cold insulation and flexible leather construction.

Ask the council which team they used and keep it safe for them - council trees are usually done by contractor teams. It would feel awful to loose personal kit just from trying to get a job done, worse than having it stolen if its from rushing and stupidity. The only things I've lost yet are lots of cheap door stop wedges and a sling/carabiner that were pinched by the NTPC trainer. Had my phone returned to me last year, it was only gone a few minutes fell out of pocket. The returner got 20 quid which was all I had on me.

Interesting! I assumed there is, or would be, a second belt to drive up to the cutter head, but a bit of google tells me its a chain drive inside the tube frame, later ones were shaft drive. They are from 1950's onwards.

I'd say they are taking the piss, maintence and small damages should be accounted for in the hire price, grease and oil are standard maintence that they should be doing before/after each hire so its ready for the next guy. I'd suggest he disputes the charges which may be easier if credit card was used.

Each time I've had this on other saws, my air filter has unexpectedly become caked in shite, it can be suprising how quick it can cake up. It may be the idle screw is a bit low but adjusting it could be hiding other issues. Always clean the air filter first. Are you warming it up before you climb? A full throttle start can get a saw running and I usually start my 2511 like that, as it will start first pull. How old is your fuel? More than a couple weeks, tip it out and a get a fresh mix to rule that out, always helps tho I happily use 3 month old mixes. Next thing to check is a fresh NGK sparky and check the gap as they are rarely the specified 0.5mm that they should be for mine - I dont know if thats the same for a 151.

I could be interested, pics and prices please, price for all three? Can never have too many saws. Where are you?

First proper use of ladder. I like it, very stable. It fits well on the roof rack, rungs are perfectly spaced. It'll extend two steps higher.

Interesting, something I have thought about doing and I bought a set of excersize bands for it last year - I remember the thick one is something like 60 or 80kg pull strength and would likely launch a throw bag to the moon! I dont know if I'd care for the trigger but its a neat solution. I'll watch the video later. I wouldnt really want to carry an extra steel pole. I wonder if a launcher head could be affixed to my Magnusson pruner pole or to my ladders.

Pigeon? Saw them on rocks whilst climbing. Took photo thinking it may be something rarer. Wintours leap in Chepstow.