kram

I've never used anything other than full speed, the battery lasts ages.

Looks like an unessasary faff. What if the battery runs out in the glove, or it gets knocked and stops working, would the cutter still work? We use chainsaws, we dont generally chop out fingers off with those. Concentration, respect the tool and turn it off when not actively cutting, very simple way to keep your fingers. Safety has gone too far. I cant send a bank payment to my father without 20 pages of anti scam questions, fraud warnings, several text message verifications and endless annoyance!

I ordered the ones shown before, 8 step extendable to 15 step A frame, should have been here Wednesday, however the shop was a day late sending, and the courier DX seem to be useless with no updates. I am greatly irritated as I'd lined up a small apple tree job so I could test them out. A friend was telling me there are ladder sports but when I looked it up on YT, it just appears to be hook ladders for speed climbing up buildings, no balance involved. I'm not sure how it would look but I have the idea of competetive extended A frame sport. On sloping, questionable ground. Two climbers with basic ladders and somone to foot each, extended to say 5 or 6 meters, and whoever can knock the other off, wins. What do you think?

They look damned stupid on video, rounded battery so they cant be stood up on a surface. I'll be the same innards as all the others, note there are a couple of different sizes. I'd suggest getting a Fakita or one compatable with whatever battery platform you already have. Mine are "Mirthbuy" and are decent.

Nope the guard is 100% coming off before its first job. Note the Fakita, which apart from having a bulky motor sticking out the side, is actually pretty good. Its only a basic DC motor but it feels to have decent power and chain speed. Cant remember when I last used it.

Its a bit larger than I expected! Comparison with the baby Fakita and my 2511.. I was expecting it to be somewhat more compact! Havent done any cuts with it yet. How do you get the guard off? Looks to be a blind pin holding it, and I'd rather not open it up straight away...

No I dont think there is a place for petrol hedgers, perhaps if the job is miles and miles of thick rail veg clearance with a shorty hedger going flat out but then its not the ideal tool for the job anyway. Petrol hedgers are also really bad for vibration and HAVS while battery ones are much nicer for your hands and arms.

I have the split shaft and long reach attachement. Its just as capable as the Stihl petrol. Most people that have tried mine hate it as it turns off too fast, if you let go of the switch, but a peice of tape solves that issue. I've got used to it so no need for the tape. I did complain to Makita as its bloody retarded when the hedger stays on for minutes. I cant stand the noise of a petrol hedger! The split shaft can also be used with brush cutter/trimmer string but on thick bramble, it does eat battery fast. It will do it, but best to have a few batteries and one on charge. If I had more thick waist high bramble I would instead take my 52cc chinese trimmer - thats also a very good cheap option if your not a professional, £120 for a 5 in one machine. Nope get the better system and sell the old, or keep both. The new chargers can do the old batteries with a £5 adaptor.

Its an existing square drilled hole, the tap will want to follow it square and unless your cack handed it wont be a problem. Now if you've never used a helicoil before I have an important tip - release the pressure on the insertion tool every half turn and go slow. The wire is like a spring. If you instead, wind it in continuously or fast, the wire will wind up smaller than the thread, when that happens it will jump, and then you have a problem! You do not want a helicoil wire to jump out of the thread. If it does on a chainsaw engine, your best to try winding it all the way through and hope the unsupported tang doesnt snap off early, start again with a fresh one. Its also wise to drill and tap a hole in some scrap to practise with first.

Its either not been tightened fully or had dirt in the thread - making it feel tight but still being loose. I had the same on my CBR600 motorbike. Should be quite easy to helicoil. Best to pull the cylinder off first so it can be reassembled clean, but on the CBR6 I helicoiled all four in situ as getting a 4T bike engine apart and back together is a fairly huge job. If you do it with the saw assembled, set the engine with exhaust port open, use plenty of grease on the tap to catch any swarf then flush it out with 2t mix fuel.

The UH006 is good, nice to use. The specs and the batteries are better than the Stihl 140r. The 18v tools are significantly down on power and capacity compared to Makita xgt 40v ones, even with the twin 18v is significantly down on the XGT so its worth upgrading to the newer system. Currently theres a free battery promotion with the outdoor tools, ends end of Sept. I'll have gained 5 of these promotion batteries, and possibly going to buy more tools before it ends. I have the blower, top handle, hedger and pruning chainsaw, split shaft - with hedger/trimmer/polesaw. I never seen any Stihl battery kit in the wild and their early battery kit was rubbish, so no one wants to risk the newer stuff. It does work well for very thick tops on large hedges whilst up a ladder, beech etc where your cutting 3 or 5 meter tops.

Saw another review yesterday and, combined with the free battery offer ending soon, and somones comment that nowhere has stock, decided I do actually want one of the new XGT pruners, UC029. Sods law, the only shop with stock is a bit more £££ so 255 spent, should arrive tomorrow by Drop Hide Lose. Reviews say it has a lot of torque and almost unstallable, so I am thinking it needs a bigger 3/8" sprocket for higher chain speed, 1.3mm bar and a full chisel chain.

Hmm?

Looks very close to me, particually the seeds when comparing on google images. See the images here Royal Paulownia 500 Seeds Paulownia tomentosa FLORIDASEEDS.NET Paulownia tomentosa, commonly known as the empress tree or princess tree, is a fast-growing deciduous tree native to central and western...

I believe I've decided on the extendable combination ladder type. Trying to decide which brand and what size to get but likely the 8 rung. A frame max height of 4m and fully extended its 8.4m.

It wont be left on roof rack unattended overnight, just as no valuable tools are left in it. How much!?! Looks just like a normal extending combination type but with a fancy bottom bar for adjusting it level - while I like the idea, I dont like how its done with a curved bar and I'd want to know spares are available - which dont show on the spares page. I do like using shorty hedge cutters, the Makita UH006 is excellent for cutting thick tops, much quicker than a long reach on a narrow hedge.

Yes, they only do it in semi chisel and the efficiency of full chisel outweighs the narrow kerf.

I dont care how much it weighs, I'm not usually carrying them far. My Mazda 6 is about 4.7 meters so realistically 3.5m is about the longest I could fit on the roof, however, I have just realised with an extension combi on roof rack, it would impede the opening on the boot and would be a massive pain having to come off for any boot access. A telescopic or folding type might be short enough.

Yet your talking above of wanting .325 on it and on a 201!? That'll be shite. No battery life wont be any different and the 40v lasts ages with the 1.3 full chisel.

The Makita has plenty of power to run a proper 1.3mm gauge 3/8 full chisel so wouldnt bother with the 1.1's. I've been running the uc002 on the 12" bar and chain that came with the 2511 clone and works very well, tho I'd like to get a narrow nose carving style bar for it. The Echo bars are too narrow at the sprocket end and would have the chain rub the casing, which is a shame as I have another spare one. The only issue with the Farmertec chains is the have excessively soft drive links. I was rashing up some hedge trimmings yesterday to fit in a bag, some got under the chain and pulled it off - and now half the drive links need deburring before they will fit back on the bar. The chains are great apart from that. The one on my 2511 and on 020T have done a lot of work without yet needing a sharpen.

The taller one of those looks like it may do what I'm after. What size do you have and does it feel decently stable when fully extended? The 6.4 looks like its 3m as an A frame and £240. I dont mind paying that for a good one.

Henchman tripods of any suitable size are not going to fit on a car roof rack. I dont like the idea of them although I have not used one. I imagine the normal section combination-extension, folding or telescopic types will do what I'm after. I've used similar folding ones, good for small domestic hedges but so is standing in a full to the top green bin or stack of bulk bag. They are not very high and I want something taller. Werner 12 Way Aluminium Combination Ladder | Toolstation WWW.TOOLSTATION.COM Why buy multiple ladders when one will do the job? With the Werner 12 in 1 combination ladder, you'll be ready to work at height in almost any location.Use it... If they did a larger version of the same thing. I do both small domestic hedges, fruit trees, and larger giant hedges surrounding massive estates although the latter are with estabilished arb companies that usually have a beaten up, unsafe, wobbly ladder. They have usually had more log hits on the rungs than the pan of a motorway services WC, and just as unpleasant to use. The last one I used, the pin that locks it into the A frame mode, kept slipping out on one side, not fun. If its a conifer hedge being re-topped I'll usually climb the hedge directly, as was the case with yesterdays laurel and australian cheesewood. However most hedges are not strong enough to climb so for yesterdays job I had to go back with our 3 step domestic decorating step ladder , just about did the job to reach to the back. If the ladder is stable I am usually happy to stand near the top of an 11 rung A frame without it being footed, possibly higher, I cant remember how long the previous ladder was. I dont like going above the A frame using the extensions, I dont have the balance to do that unfooted, like some people do.

What do you use or recommend? Most arb ladders I've seen or used , have been past their best and I'd like to get my own for the odd hedge job I might get to do on my own - so Im after a decent one that can be used as an A frame. Transport will be by car roof rack, so I will be limited in length.

This is the clone I'm using. 25cc JonCutter G2511 Gasoline Chainsaw Power Head With 12inch Saw Chain and Guide Bar from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM 25cc JonCutter G2511 Gasoline Chainsaw Power Head With 12inch Saw Chain and Guide Bar offered by China manufacturer Farmertec. Buy 25cc... I used the genuine Echo 2511 today, small job to re-top laurel and a Kohuhu/Australian Cheesewood/Pittosporum hedges. It is an amazingly pleasant saw to use but the clone is near identical in character.

The CS362, never seen one. I'm sure its a good saw but people only buy the CS2511 I have an Echo 2511 and one of the Farmertec clones Joncutter G2511 and its the clone I currently use, so consider that - mine was £92 delivered. If you intend to tune it, the clones have a much simpler exhaust that is easier to do, but all of my saws are as standard. 3/8 full chisel chains are best in my option, and I prefer the mini carving bar, you can do more precise cuts with it. Medium tree take downs? I'd say they run out of power on a 10" cut, they are suited to less. Perfect for most pruning work and limbing smaller removals then swap up to chog the stem. However recently I'd say I have been converted to battery saws for pruning and small work, generally on this work a battery will last ages. The Echo DCS2500T may be worth a look, never used one. I have the Makita UC002, its between the 2511 and my 020T for power, size and weight. My only complaint is the power button location, and that it turns off exactly when you dont want it to when doing awkward positional cuts. It is a nice saw and excellent value at £220'ish, you can claim a free battery for it until september. I still use the G2511 for smaller work but it would be nice not to need petrol except on bigger jobs.