kram

Just to repeat if you were to jump it from a other power source, it does not need or want to be 36v and not directly to another battery. Once its about 20-30v total, the Stihl charger shouldnt have anything to complain about, it will be within the normal range of a discharged battery. It should be done in a way thats current limited. You can get cheap current limiting boards off amazon for nearly nothing. You should be able to find something on how to set it up on YT. You want to start with only 100miliAmps until it gets to 20v or so then let the proper Stihl charger finish it off. 18v battery or mains power supply -> limiter board -> dead battery.

Interesting, what would these look like in 3 or 5 years when its grown a bit?

Yes TTI own them but Milwaukee is based in the US, even if most of the tools are contracted out to China.

Dremmel is shite, made by Bosch. Much better to get the Milwaukee M12BLROT. It is a very rare thing when I buy or recommend anything American, but in this case they have got it right. Annoyingly now that I have the M12 platform, I cant see anything else worth getting.

The above statue thing is a bit shit, this one works better. https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/imageTo3d?from=makerlab Anyway thought I'd test it on a 2511 exhaust cover. It didnt like a white background so found a pic of a dirty used one off ebay. Very unlikely it will be correct but Im printing it anyway. I can then scale and adjust to fit. Edit, the result The size is quite far off, 20% and more in depth. I'll try again using a video instead of single image, maybe something simpler.

Ah not all cars had seatbelts, tho most will have been retrofitted if they are still on the road, except vintage cars.. Where as near enough every car has a 5v1 threaded schrader valve, except some fancy airless run flat tyres.

Theres likely a good number 8V1-32 and 5V1-36 is the most visible and a right arse if one wants to get a tap or die to make a custom compatable part, taps and dies are not generally available although can get them from china.

Old Makita LXT's were designed with three fusable links in the BMS, if you fully discharged them and tried on a normal charger, each attempt it would blow a link, three goes and done. However if you recovered the cells to normal it would charge fine but they never reset. After 3 blow, you have to replace the PCB with a knockoff one which are available from aliexpress etc quite cheapily. I doubt knockoff Stihl PCB's are available. You can get knockoff makita /dewalt/milwaukee etc.. battery sets cheap, this sort of thing. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001577209628.html Anyway heres a video of a AP300 being scrapped for parts. The pcb is by the lights and sealed, you cant get at it without destroying the pack. Certainally not designed to be repaired!

I've learned, measure the bits because they are not always on size. For the small Stihl chains, no one sells a 3.2mm bit specifically for chainsaws, however a worn 4mm bit, works very well. Theres also 3.2mm bits in most diamond bit sets. I got a load of them from amazon. I did try with the fancy guides that screw on the tool but its much better free hand.

Theres equal chance its just flat. A lot of packs do not have any fuse or mosfet capable of disconnecting the packs, often connections go directly to the tabs and the BMS is only there for charging and monitoring.

I didnt have anywhere decent to rest the camera so this is not a great example.. I did miss on the second tooth but no harm done to it. VID-20251212-WA0004.mp4 Rotary grinder is good for these. Razor sharp and better than a file will get it. You only need to concentrate on the angle and let it work a couple seconds per tooth. Move it just a little so the bit wears evenly. I hold the chain in one hand and also use that to advance the chain, it works really well but you could do it on a bench etc.. This is the only decent cordless option, Milwaukee M12BLROT. https://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/milwaukee-m12-blrot-0-12v-brushless-rotary-tool-body-only

So the broken part is no 14 in this diagram, the cover with the fixed shaft. 22 and 23 are the spinny bits and are retained by 24/25 that sit in the broken circlip groove. The shaft has a torx end but looks like its only for assembly purposes? Does the shaft remove from the plastic cover? I might be able to repair that easily, or turn a new one on lathe. Another option, if you measure and draw the part up in a CAD program, you could get a new one machined quite cheapily with https://jlccnc.com/ I've not used them myself but I know of somone who was prototyping a climbing device and he got them to make the parts.

Not in the way that describes. If your going to try connecting the battery to anything to "jump start" it, it should not be another battery or high current device, it needs to be done with a current limit. This sort of thing, but it will need power from an 18v battery or similar https://www.amazon.co.uk/POFET-Buck-Boost-Programmable-Adjustable-Automatic/dp/B0D93WBZ7F There are more expensive ones that power themselves but for a one off use... https://www.amazon.co.uk/adjustable-switching-precision-charging-interface/dp/B09C8MT4KM You need to have it on constant current mode, 100mA. After 5 seconds, measure if the battery has taken any charge. Once its up to 20v, try it on the stihl charger. Fully charged is 42v.

@Fatboy2017 battery packs are connected like this. The thin wires are for the BMS to monitor and adjust the cells and keep the voltage within limits. Your pack has 10 cells in series, so imagine that diagram went upto 10 and the thick red wire is connected on 10. Except the pack is doubled, so theres a other 10 cells that are connected exactly the same - so cell1 in diagram is two cells.

Do not do the above. You may aswell pour petrol on the pack and torch it...

Do you have a photo of the broken part?

Yes some people do this. It can damage the cells and cause fires, sometimes delayed. The problem is some cells are likely near full, while others near empty. Large currents can flow when you connect two packs together and it can push cells well past there 4.2v limit. The only safe way to do it is with a balance charger as a pack, or by charging individual pairs to the same voltage, they need to all measure the same. It needs to be done at a slow rate, too. If you must, do it outside on a dry day, charge it outside then keep it in a weather proof box, outside for a few days or a week. If it does burn while your asleep, your house, family and tools will be safe. Anyway first thing is get a volt meter on the external tabs to see how much charge it has.

Assuming the battery has no warranty, batteries can usually be recovered. Lithium cells like to burn if not used properly so this takes some care. Do it in a fireproof, dry place. AP200 is a 20 cell, 10 series 2 parallel battery, 10x 2.5Ah cells in series to get 36v, two rows of 10 in parallel to get 5Ah. The first check is using a multimeter on the + and - tabs, what is the overall battery voltage? Chargers usually refuse to charge cells that have dropped below about 1.5v. With the battery opened up, the next check is how well it is balanced - check each pair and note it down. If any are below 1.5v they need to be charged slow, at 100mA or so. Buy a cheap RC charger - few go up to 10 cells so you will have to individually charge every pair, or you could charge 5 pairs at a time with balance leads. Once its recovered it should charge normally on the stihl charger.

Archery trigger arrived for the catapult 503 - Service Unavailable Error WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK

My meaning was waterproof jackets, I'll often wear a fleece if I'm standing around waiting but if its wet, its not going to help and I'll leave it in the car. Yes weather is a lot easier here in the south. Its hot weather that I have more problems with.

To add to the futility, I'd suggest starting with a cheap ones, they are not bad, you need to learn maintence, and its useful to have saws of different sizes. Lidl 53cc 18" for £60 Farmertec G2511 25cc Echo clone for £90 G111 020T clone for £230 G372XP or G660 clone with 20-28" for £300 £680 is not much more than your budget but would set you up for most work. My list is pretty similar to the above except I have a genuine Echo 2511 as well as the clone, a genuine 020T, and a Mcculloch cs340(Husky 235 but black). Also a battery Makita UC002. I'd avoid used, they are all battered or stolen.

APTA appears to be a bog standard potato air cannon made from 2" plumbing pipe and fittings, but they added a little ziptied handle to justify the $400 price. A common tyre fitters tool is the 5 gallon bead blaster. In theory they are proper rated pressure vessels, just needs a bit of pipe for the launching barrel. It is far too big, dangerous with that much air. Theres a smaller version. 3L of air should be plenty, but 9L might only need 30 or 40psi, and I suppose that might be safer over all. Lower pressure may need a longer barrel. I'm thinking I will try a small blaster cannon, and a clone of the bigshot.

Its a bad idea for somone new to chainsaws, to jump straight in with a 70cc, cutting 3ft diameter logs. Suggest you get some experienced help for it, or atleast some basic training if you havent had any! When Farmertec had an offer, I got my G372XP clone for £151 delivered. Prices have gone up a bit, but I'd buy one again. Items for sale by machinerypartstore | eBay WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Shop eBay for great deals from machinerypartstore! However the G372, on bigger stuff, is not the quickest saw. Possibly a G660 or G395. Or G3120 is tempting. G660 92cc Gasoline Power Head 28inch 92DL Bar Chain For MS660 066 | eBay UK WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 1PC 92CC Chainsaw Power Head. Chain Sprocket Standard 7 tooth 3/8" pitch. Total Mass Without bar and chain 8kgs. Guide Bar 20", 25", 28",32" or 36"...

How big are the trees? I see from your other posts you may have quite a bit to process. Which Dewalt? You should also be wearing protective boots and trousers. If the biggest stems are under 14" then a light 35cc saw will be easier work. If they are upto 20" then a 50-60cc saw would work well and do the smaller stuff no issue. If theres a lot of it above 20" you may want two saws, a small 35cc to do the majority of the smaller cutting and a 70cc for the bigger stuff, or just a 70cc.. it will do small stuff but they are thirsty and heavy, you will feel if it using it all day.

I guess you can. https://makerworld.com/en/makerlab/makeMyStatue/