kram

It seems to me the biggest risk of ticks is not from areas with deer or grass but dogs and their walkers.

I helped out a team last week and the boss had started to switch to aspen, some of his saws had already shat themselves, repaired and been advised by somone to rebuild the carbs when switching. I dont remember if his 400c was running the aspen or 2t mix but that soon shat itself and the stump had to be chogged with a blunt 261, painful to watch! I shall not be letting aspen near my saws. When somone tells me they "have all the gear, not to worry about bringing saws", I shall bring my G372xp and a spare chain.

Its easily possible. The motors exist, the difficult part is the battery, balancing the power, weight, size, run time and durability. Most big saws use large single batteries, wrong approach in my opinion if going for maximum power. Both Makita and Stihl make large backpack batteries, and theres no reason these couldnt have 10kW output with some minor changes. Short cable to the saw. The power to weight of the saw would be extreme and perhaps a real benefit for chogging down big trees or cutting in awkward positions.

@AHPP There are techniques for raking, efficiently and quickly. Far too many arb teams seem to use metal grass/soil rakes for shifting arb detritus, three times the effort and ends up with a big pile of lawn moss. I like the magnusson rake, use with more if a sweeping action. Works equally well on grass, concrete or fancy garden tiles. ERROR: The request could not be satisfied WWW.SCREWFIX.COM One I know has two child sized, broken handle rakes. He bought a replacement, a tarmac rake, useless. When I work with them I try to avoid raking or bring my own.

Measure it and go to a bearing supplier Or ask LSE.

This is one of my problems. I generally go out after work and dont get home until 10 or 11pm. My charger is a single slot and takes an hour each. I may have to get a double slot charger so I can stick them all together. I dont want to leave it running over night. It may be difficult if you had enough batteries for a team or two teams. Makita do an 8 slot box but afaik it needs mains power to charge, and its £500! Ideal if it could charge from car/van while driving to and from sites.

Disagree there, more about power than constant running. Top handles are ok as generally its high power in short bursts. I was impressed how many 12"cuts my uc002 can do on a battery. Hedgers, trimmers are constant but low power tools. They can use high power but only for the instant that you hit a thicker branch. You can get ages out of a battery. However you might not want to do a 8 hour day of heavy rail veg clearance as that will go through batteries fast. Blower is a high power tool and can drain a battery in 10 mins or so on full blast. How much blowing do you do? Battery hedgers, holding them up near your face you get a cool blast of fresh air out the motor. Extremely refreshing on a hot day! Top handles for climbing or ground saw for snedding ideal to be battery. Big saws for chogging up large stems need the power of petrol - Im talking 372xp-500i-660 sort of thing. There are large comparable battery saws but they use huge batteries and expensive.

I've ordered the Makita XGT one. It has some impressive numbers and should be smaller to fit in my car. It'll get me another free promotion battery too, so the ost is irrelevant. On full, boost mode, expect less than 8 minutes from a battery. I'd be rather irritated if I needed to spend 8 minutes of a day full power blowing.

What tools do you use on your combi? That may decide how much power and weight you want. I'd suggest for hedge trimming, you wouldnt want the big batteries. Light as possible with adequate power. Battery is the way to go for most of those tools. I like the Makita UX01 kit. They have a free battery offer at the moment and its decent professional grade quality. I have hedge, polesaw, extension, brushcutter. Seperately I got the rough cut hedger and 12" chainsaw, and just ordered the blower. I bought three batteries and will soon have four from the promotion, two have arrived already.

I've not used that one but I have a pair of shorty pruners that I climb with, mostly fruit tree prunes or anything small. Also great on holly. Telescopic would be safer for the fingers, I wouldnt want to be near anyone else using a telescopic! What do you currently use? While the one you linked looks good, 3m length would be limiting I think, compared to a 4.5m battery polesaw and same weight, much less versitile. For telescopic these manually powered ones are really good. Very very light, often bring them up into the tree. Thicker stuff above 25mm is hard work if you have a lot of cuts to make. Good price, they were £85. Come with a saw blade which I never used. https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson-bypass-tree-loppers-157-1-2-4000mm-/852ty Fiskars make almost the exact same thing, upx86, but it costs a good amount more without the blade.

Thats interesting.. they have the specs listed, and none of the battery saws appear to have any AV mounts. Comparing a Stihl ms194T, that lists 3.6m/s² Msa190T 3.8/3.9m/s² Makita UC002 5m/s². They dont do a comparable petrol top handle. Husq T542i is listed 4.1/4.7m/s² Echo 2511 3.5/4 m/s² and DCS2500 3.3/4.3m/s² Perhaps traditional AV mounts are not so effective with motors, but there all similar.

Generally you are responsible for your side and shouod maintain it, and in most cases a fence will mark the boundry, after 12 years it can be claimed as the boundry. Where as if its just a fence, usually each homeowner will be responsible for one side, which on ours is the left, when looking out the front, cant remember if theres a standard for that or not. Our neighbour had two large leylandii on each corner of garden. They eventually had one removed our side (before I started tree work) but left the other side. When it was time for the fence, they had the contractors be lazy and put the fence inside of the tree, gifting a couple square meters to the other neighbour. The leylandii is twice the hieght of house and damaged by a council birch, I will see if I can get the job of topping it down to a sensible height some day.

Cbr600 2002. Got her at 27k miles and commuted all weathers until 2020 covid, she died a week before covid hit the UK at 125k miles. The timing chain jumped, easily fixed but while furlough I tarted her up, angood service mechanically but never reassembled. ULEZ makes it pointless... Cbr250RR MC22, 1992 or something. Carbs are a pain, it ran ok, amazing revvy fun engine, but never ran perfectly and hesitated at the top end. Not been on the road for a while, the tank is now black. Brothers chinese 125, I ride it occasionally and help maintain it. No power above 40mph but good fun for city riding. Unlike most 125's it has proper sized tyres 110/140 70 17, same as the 250 and feels like a bigger bike.

Yes nothing wrong with the AV on the Lidl or ony two clones - 2511 or 372xp. One interesting fact is that battery saws dont appear to have or need AV - I assumed some of the vibration came from the cutting action but it appears it is all from the engine, so they dont need it.

There is not an accurate test for it. That is most of the problem. Lymes is nothing I was reading the other day about liver flukes. In certain countries , any contact with fresh water, be it swimming, rinsing dirt of your leg in a stream, splashing your face for half a second, can have the parasites burrow into your skin and then around your circulation. They eventually burrow through to your organs where they cause proper damage. I used to do a lot of trail running through thick woodland and technical ground in shorts where there are deer and cows. Suprised nothing has got me but never noticed any.

I like the saw, it was nice enough to use, I will likely repair and keep it. Stihls on the other hand are ear piercingly loud, and about as unpleasant noise as the german language - sounds like somone trying to vomit. Nothing against the Germans, just dont let them speak! Anyway as said before, I'm a climber. I have an Echo 2511 (and its clone), Makita Uc002, Stihl 020T, all great saws that I enjoy using. This Lidl was for low cutting/roots abuse, the stuff I wouldnt want to do to a good saw, and it did this well. I have a G372Xp clone for chogging down anything the 020T cant handle. Next failure of the day, my newish Makita HP001 combi drill, which is the best one they do, first time using it in hammer mode, I believe the gearbox has shit itself, so that is going back tomorrow. Was it @AHPP that warned me about this drill?

Chain adjuster is shite. The bevel gear of the side adjuster is only held by the thin wear plate. I may repair it myself. However I think its the same or shares parts with every other generic chinese ground saw, so should be easy to find another.

A while ago I ordered the Makita brushcutter attachement for the battery split shaft. I can say its excellent! Prefer it to my petrol one. I've used Stihl's in the past, this is better. It comes with a skinny 2mm "four leaf clover" - rounded square profile cord. I was skeptical but cuts grass and thicker weeds well, including bramble, and lasts ages Hardly used any cord for a large garden. Ordered a roll of their thicker 2.4mm of the same type, £41 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09M2288T9

That changes things, if your selling! Surveyor is unlikely to look at the roots as they will be well hidden, under dirt, in the neighbours garden!

My opinion a small front garden fence line is not an appropriate location for that tree. I'd remove it. You could have it reduced quite hard but then your setting yourself up for a 3 year cycle of expensive maintenece pruning.

Never used them but they do appear a genuine shop.. I note they only appear to stock parts and not machines, their parts are pattern imports.

Retopping a leylandii jungle, one of the widest I've been in and a pain to throw the tops. It was very hot up there yesterday! Lots of dead in the middle that was constantly catching on my gear and rope. There was also a multi stem holly I pruned, horrible things! VID_20250618_102756.mp4 Then I saw this on the way home. Ladders and a bowsaw! The second ladder was stacked sideways on the limb. Old guy, working on his own and it would have ended badly! I had to stop and see what he was doing. He wanted it raised above his driveway - I had the pole stick so it was a 5 min job to clear all the lower stuff I didnt charge but he gave me some beer money.

"Smart chargers" I have found to be cheap rubbish and often dont appear to do work. Single button and a few LED's doesnt make it smart. Lead acid batteries are extremely basic to charge anyway. What I'd recommend is a lipo charger from the RC world - these actually are smart and can do nearly every different battery type. The advantage is they also do discharge, most have a screen and can tell you exactly how much charge has gone in or out of the battery, so you get a fair idea of its condition. As a general rule, manufacturers over spec lead batteries about 4x what they need to, as they degrade over time. When they get down to a third or quater capacity, its time to replace.

Have you adjusted the chute? are the fan blades and chute clear? What are you chipping? Palm can wrap around and clog things up, I'm told - well I've seen it wrapped tightly around the main shaft bearing and a pain to get out. Open the lid and get some photos of the fan blade.

Got these yesterday at a good price from local climbing wall. Second pic was from managers personal stash, he hoards kit and hes been told he has to sell some!