kram

Raises a question for me, if this has been ongoing since a claim in 2007 it must be costing the owner a fortune each year to insure with a declared issue of subsidence. I'm suprised he can get cover. Do you know if its the same insurer? It may be a different one and they havent been told of past issues.

As above, in the current state it doesnt look good. How tall is it? You dont show the hieght or the distance to cabin. You could reduce the tree to a height that will be a much lower risk. This will need to be repeated every 5-10 years.

I dont have a problem in cold weather. My problem is wet weather if they get soaked through and neither type are waterproof. My solution to that is to have spare, dry, warm pairs and swap as needed.

Their reply indicates they will not be paying a penny of compensation to you for the lack of privacy, fencing, security, damage to your plants, garden or water run off. I do not think any court would side with them on the information presented here, if you argue the points that have been raised, atleast not if the cedars stay. Gather up all this info and get professional advice on it. Root/ground survey if your wanting to keep the trees. You can get rolls of privacy mesh, stick some new tall posts in and run it along the top of fence. This is supposed to be good tho I havent seen it, Im sure it will act as a sail, so at 3 meters you might need a 3 foot post spacing.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/VOUNOT-Screening-UV-resistant-Tear-Resistant-Windbreak/dp/B0B6DVM933/

Yes something like that. After trying them in the shop, I think the Mapa582's are better, thicker.

I dont think so as none of them are CE, only ANSI rated.

Seen the pfanner ones in shop, not convinced they are any better than the thin ones. Had some thick insulated leather ones that are good in wet cold weather but I cant climb in them, and they now have a hole..

Leather might be good when its cold and wet but most of the year will be sweaty. Wrapping the hand is dangerous in many situations. You dont want to be falling or having a shock on the rope with it wrapped. Definatly not on the ground holding the rigging rope, you'd loose an arm. While your going up, no problem. I quite often use a 2mm prussik cord to tend my knut, it makes a big difference but its a pain for changeovers, decending or moving around. Its a useful technique and its good to keep in shape. If I am mostly climbing the tree and have a short section where there are no suitable limbs, I will thrust my way up. My preference is just to climb the tree and just tend the rope. If I drop down a crotch and need to climb back over, I will often foot lock or get my acsender out, I always have it on harness, or when Im using a single strand cinch anchor it is useful. I have little interest in throwballing a line and ascending 20 meters of rope just to save a couple minutes.

Have not yet reassembled the cs340 although the carb appears to work, that can wait. Started on the KM111R, needed a lot of cleaning! New purge bulb and will need a new air filter. Starts and idles well enough. Only thing I notice, if I release the purge bulb quickly, its sucking in air bubbles from somewhere, bubbles up the hole in centre. If I release slow, over 10 seconds or so, no air gets in. Not enough to cause problems but any idea where from? VID-20241221-WA0014.mp4

Yes I have about 30 pairs of grippy cut resistant gloves, very good for climbing in as they give some silky protection but not too thick, thicker than the normal cheapies and the rubber lasts well. Mapa 582 Krytech. KRYTECH 582 NITRILE ANTI CUT LEVEL 4 GLOVES (SZ-9) WWW.EBAY.CO.UK <p dir="ltr" style="margin-top:0; margin-bottom:0;">Protect your hands with these Krrytech 582 Nitrile Anticut Level 4 Gloves. Designed for...

What device or prussik? No huge difference in friction for a knut between 11mm and 1/2" rope. One thing I havent seen others, that I do to ascend DRT, I usually have a wrap or two rope around my right wrist as it makes much easier to grip, but means shaking the slack down/arm up, after each pull. Although I am a rock climber with superb grip, I do need to wrap the rope to pull my fat 100kg arse up the rope. I have never had great arm strength.

The oldest 2008 photo shows a wall which is gone in later photos. We can probably assume when the wall was put in, roots may have been cut for a foundation or slab? Wonder if they removed foundations or just removed above ground when that went. Very little roots where the wall once lived. Tree that size should have roots stretching much further out. I believe thats the cause, sorry nothing to do with the pruning Somone with more experience should tell the guy and family that got hurt, perhaps they can claim proper compensation from the owners.

Aninteresting feature on street view is to look back in the same view over previous years

From the other side: looks to me that its been topped in the past as theres a large number of parallel stems.

Would anyone know the difference between the V1 and V3? I am tempted to get one at V1 prices but there doesnt appear any difference in the spec. I assume if there was a recall, they wouldnt be selling the V1.

Back to the 2511. I swapped the sprocket, suprised to find some rubbish between the socket and worm drive, must have been there since new? Without it there does seem to be some play which may be how it got sucked in there if it wasnt packing from the factory.... I have only used this saw in the tree and being careful not to cut any rubbish that may blunt my chains.. The 1/4" .050" carving bars can be used with 3/8" chains but the length needed is 42DL, not 40. As I dont want another spec of 3/8" 10" chains, so I decided it were best to modify the bar and shorten it at the sprocket end. Had to take off a reasonable amount so new adjuster holes needed. The bars are reasonably hard metal, so a decent drill bit is required. These bars have additional slots, for lightening? which could cause chain oil to leak out, so I will need to fill that with epoxy resin. The original TESC bar doesnt have these slots. Left is a new bar and right the modified one.

TBM means they are using the manhole (cover?!) as the height reference to measure everything from. I assume they put stickers everywhere for reference points. Manholes are generally large, textured rather than flat, probably not level and unlikely to be accurate if you remove the machine and replace it in a slightly different position. Just 3 measurements? Not a great sample size. I dont know what equipement they used, a theodolite? but the values do seem questionable, up and down, without a consistant trend which with only three samples could just be human error from placing the machine. Either way the measure of 2.3mm is on the scale of a blond one. I would not accept those results, particually not as evidence of the trees causing issue.

Nitrile is no good with modern fuels. I believe it is supposed to be Viton for fuel/ethanol resistance? The original was black and I'm assuming nitrile as it didnt last long. Anyway I have gone with the fast option, 9am Sunday delivery.. pack of 25 for a fiver. sourcing map Fluorine Rubber O Rings, 5mm OD, 3mm Inner Diameter, 1mm Width, Seal Gasket Black 25Pcs : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop sourcing map Fluorine Rubber O Rings, 5mm OD, 3mm Inner Diameter, 1mm Width, Seal... They fit well, purge bulb instantly works and squirts the remaining water that was left in the carb, put it back together and ready to reassemble the saw. I'll attempt to check over the KM111R later.

I wont claim to know how to specifiy O rings... Will message some friends about it tomorrow. Something like this may do. FKM O-Rings Metric 1mm-6mm Cross Section 1mm-253mm ID Rubber Oil Resistant Seals WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Material: Fluorine Rubber(FKM). Cross Section(CS): 1mm 2mm 4mm 5mm 6mm. Features: Good oil resistance, wear resistance...

The cause of the Mcculloch Cs340 problem is comfirmed. Shrivelled O ring. @Mark_Skylandwould you know if accelerator pump O rings are available? I suspect I will need to go to an engineering supplier. The bore is 5mm and piston OD measures 4.94mm, and ID for the oring is roughly 3.2mm (measured the piston, not the O ring itself). Slot width roughtly 1.2-1.3mm and old oring is a little under 1.2mm thick.

Watched a video yesterday about a Stihl trimmer. The leak was an oring on the accelerator pump section of the carb, and the video implied its a common problem (also states that orings are not available from stihl and proceeds to seal it up, but any engineeering supplier should be able to get small viton orings if you can measure the size accurately) I've just located the accelerator pump section on the cs340 and selectively dunked it in a cup of water. When the acc pump is submerged, it will suck up and squirt water. Theres a tiny circlip that I cant easily remove at the moment so will get it apart later on. Acc pump is behind the throttle shaft in the hole, below the blue line, which is where I had it submerged.

Very helpful reply. These are spares but we would like them fixed. The bulb and hoses are not split, the air leak is occuring inside the carb. Thanks I will have a look. The YT video I saw, suggested a blocked exhaust and it does seem to have some resistance when I blow through it, I think Im going to boil exhaust in caustic for half hour as that should remove any carbon deposits. The blower starts up fine, after the initial warm up, it will run at 100% throttle without issue for about 30 seconds. After that, above 80% throttle it will bog down and loose power. The cylinder and piston look good, viewed from the exhaust port. When I checked spark plug the gap was large so replaced it and ran better for a few minutes before it started again. He bought a new one after a couple of days before I had a chance to look at it.

What should I be looking for? The purge bulbs appear intact and the leaks are within the carbs themselves. They are not purging/sucking fuel into the carb. Had one apart, cleaned the non rubber parts/passageways with carb cleaner and reassembled to no improvement, all looked clean inside. This was from a newish saw with very little use (training before my CS31 and blocking down a handfull of trees). Husq/McCulloch Cs340. Genuine carb is £60 and more than its worth so rather repair this one. Genuine Husqvarna Carburettor 14mm Air Bore - 586 93 62-02 WWW.GARDENHIRESPARES.CO.UK Genuine part suitable for some of the following makes & models; Husqvarna 120 Mark II, 230, 235, 235e, 236, 236e, 240, 240e, Jonsered CS2234... The other is from a Stihl kombi engine, I have not got the carb off yet, the purge bulb is cracking but still holds suction against my hand. It has not been maintained... Mycelium air filter? Behind the air filter is clean but havent pulled carb off yet, Im not sure how throttle linkage comes off. Third is a BG86C blower, carb appears fine as it starts easy enough but looses power after a short time at full throttle and believe that may be a clogged exhaust/spark arrestor. The air filter is clean, sparkplug is new.

Are these, 0520 and 0510, the same part? Both are listed for the saw on LSE

My old one looks like that on the screw cap except has the ball string like this one. I dont want the flip cap type and dont think it fits anyway. Do you have that?