kram

Too much time on YT and not enough time doing. Was that your comment I noticed on a recent AvE video? 😆

What are you intending to cut? Firewood, felling, stumps, climbing? If the chains are the same type and length, they can be used with either bar. Keep the original chain for clean cutting and the cheapies for anything with metal, dirt etc.. As I said theres nothing wrong with the chains, they will perform as well as you can sharpen them. A good knowledge of saws is always a good idea - being cheap they may stretch after the first few cuts, and need tightening (let cool down first! If they are hot, it will shrink as it cools). As an example, this large leylandii hedge I cut back from the building using these chains in the 20T. It was well overhanging the roof before. (Yes its horrific and ugly, but that is what the owners wanted)

I was cleaning a bar the other day, had a burr so filed that off. The burr caught and went through my nail, a little irritating but not painfull, which is odd!

I didnt say great quality, they are basic semi chisel chains and the bar is identical size/shape/weight to my Stihl one. There is another 50DL listing and I have given them considerable abuse with my 20T, cutting low stumps and dirt - all the stuff I wouldnt cut with an expensive chain. I have 4 or 5 of these bar/chain sets, plus a load of other cheap import chains. So far they all worked well, no problems. Be aware that if the bar radius is larger than the Makita original, the chance and severity of kickback will be increased. The answer to that is, generally you shouldnt allow the upper quater of the bar nose to be cutting - that is the dangerous bit. My current favorite is not quite so cheap but full chisel chains. This lot cost me 122 quid. I shall save the cheapy chains for dirt cutting and stumps.

I dont agree. It would be nice of course (if money did grow on trees 😆) and I hope he recovers well, and quickly. I think he is lucky to have only minor lasting injuries from an event that could have been much worse. Broken bones usually heal well. I assume his lungs are healing well. Chipped vertebrae likely to give the problems. No limbs were lost, and he could make a full recovery. Tree work can be dangerous. We all know this. Do you think the boss/owner should be bailing him out? Who made the bad decisions? The HSE fines would likely bankrupt most businesses, or atleast cause them major financial problems, and loose jobs for many other people. Guess where those fines go? Hint, its not to the injured party, not the NHS who saved his life. HSE get it. The climber wont see a penny from HSE enforcement action, atleast in what I have seen of other accidents. The best option is if he recovers, say in 6 months or a year (he can already walk!), that he may still have an employer and a job to go back to, although likely as a groundy or other role.

Its a bit annoying particually when using mobile data. Theres no other forums I know of that do it. Perhaps just the latest news/advert item would be sufficient?

I assume it was the climbers choice in how he decided to tackle the tree, and likely he wanted to climb it, but he made some poor decisions. Choice is good. I dont want my choices to be restricted due to a few people getting it wrong. Safety is important, but if a job can be considered safe enough - another tree to safely anchor to, it shouldnt be the only consideration. I want the ability to climb mildly hazardous trees and take responsibility for my actions, hopefully in the process I will not die or become a cripple. This tree/situation may be a bad example, even so I'd like HSE to quietly go away. The most important fact is, trees are dangerous and you can get it wrong climbing, or on the ground, we make our choices and are not forced to do anything by an employer. If the employer gets a big fine, that helps no one. May mean there is no job left when the guy recovers.

Did his anchor point break out or the rope snap? Seems it was quite high in the other tree, see it move but dont see anything break out. Thanks for posting the videos. I'm sure we can learn from it.

I dont know if this is new but cant edit a 2 minute old post? Doesnt matter just odd that I'm sure I used to be able to edit my stuff.

Yes I didnt bother with the gullet, I know that is required and will do with a round file. This is just a pair of spare cutters in a vice for practise, not a proper chain. I did mess up the angle, tried to correct it. I'll have a go on a fresh cutter tomorrow. I was filing from the point inwards, which I admit seems wrong to me but was recommended in a video. Perhaps wont leave a burr but at the expense of file life.

I wanted to try it. Files available here for 8 quid. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B088KYT2VV I had a few spare cutters from shortening a new chain. They started like this, ground with the corner on the side plate. Thought it started off ok but soon messed up the angle and this is how It ended up. More practise needed!

Or a breakaway carabiner on the lanyard, but there does not appear anything made for the purpose. I have done a few hazard trees and lucky all went well. I tried small accessory carabiners but they are either far too weak and open up under body weight, or far too strong for it. I ended up tying my lanyard with 3mm starter cord which I would guess in a loop, should break below 300kg. There are "cut away slings" but they seem to be fully rated 22kn types.

Can you share the vid?

Sad to here that. Hope he recovers quickly. Pic from the GoFundMe, appears he was climbing this before it fell and crushed him. I hope HSE doesnt get any funny ideas, as they often do after an accident.

Is the "crane scale" accurate/cheap/where did you get it? Could be useful.

Which motorcycle ones are best? Are they all compatable with each other? Cheapy was from Lidl. I expect the range is too short for anything but phone/music. Even so, there an improvment over my old chipper hat defenders. I did buy some 3M X5A's but they are lost..

What is required for communication? I see there are various cheapy bluetooth ear defenders about, and I was told that motorcycle headset units work well. Do these motorcycle things handle the communication to another device or is a phone required? I picked up one of the cheapies, but I suspect it wont communicate to other headsets etc without a phone/app being involved, or not at all. For music it appears to work well.

Where in SE london? Can you take a full tipper worth of chips?

Yes those pouches are good but you still need somewhere to put them. Halfords were selling a 3 draw metal tool chest a few months back for 25 quid, I got a couple. Ideal for chains, I thought. I then aquired mire lathe tools that needed a home so they are full now! 14L clear plastic tub has most of my chains. Ignore the mess, theres not much space and was charging the car battery.

I mostly use Decathlons Goliath HMS locker, Just a moment... WWW.DECATHLON.CO.UK The triple lock action is reversed, pull torwards instead of push away, easier I find. I dislike paying the triple lock premium - screw gates are a third of the price. However its not a small one. Also great to watch experienced climbers struggle with it 😆 Why the small carabiner? The only reason I can currently think of is to suit a Rope Runner Vertec, which binds up if the carabiner is too thick, and it seems only a few, work well with it.

Mazda 6 2010, 2L petrol. Great car, I was lucky to get one with low miles, 45k this week.

She was sitting a bit low with this lot. Underneath about 100kg of storage heater bricks, old kitchen worktop and other rubbish from garage. They rejected the bricks as some may contain asbestos, nonsence the heater was from 1992. They say if I wrap them, they will take it tomorrow.

Expensive, it wont hold many - enough to keep in the car but wont help with the shed storage. I'm thinking power tool cases are better. Perhaps I can put some dividers to neaten it. Take away containers work all of 5 minutes before they get shattered or knocked over. I have a very small shed so things tend to get moved about often. I did buy some halfords tool chests with 3 draws each, thinking a draw for 1/4 pitch and .325, another for 3/8lp and last for 3/8".

For those with several spare chains per saw, different bar lengths etc.. how do you store them? I have a small powertool case that keeps a few that I may need on any day, should there be hidden metal etc.. In the shed I have a large plastic tub and each chain in a bag, but its a mess, can never find the one Im after. I dont have wall space to hang them. For the different bars, I keep them with a chain around in a spare scabbard. Today recieved another nine to add to the collection.

As I crouched down today to fill up the saw I heard a great big rip from my Arborflex. Luckily it was at the front, not the rear. Was quite a cool day and I could feel the breeze! So I'm after a pair of type C for climbing that are somewhat more durable and resistant to bramble. I do have a spare pair of Arborflex, but they are a mediam and I am a fatty, I need a large.