kram

My old one looks like that on the screw cap except has the ball string like this one. I dont want the flip cap type and dont think it fits anyway. Do you have that?

For processing, are you after long logs? What size/diameter/quantity etc are you after? That may help get you some helpful responses. Find your local arborists and ask them. They will likely be more inclined to help if you can collect from sites. Chip might pay well in some places but we are paying to tip! Although last jobs around Slough had a free tip.

Where can I get an 020T oil cap from then? lSR list about 20 variations and not clear what will fit, and rhe ones I can see, seem to have a plastic keeper thing, rather than the string/ball thing that is captive in the saw.

I dont see what the advantage is compared to 3/8". Oregon just making a new standard for the fun of it, yet its semi chisel only. Just reminded me about the 020T! My oil caps been falling off randomly and discovered the thread has cracked, need to order a new one.

Im still considering the Makita, or one of the other power tool brands. The Milwaunkee is listed as 25mm cut diameter. However for now I decided I also want a strimmer/brushcutter and polesaw, and I like the idea that extensions are available to increase the reach to 4m or so. I have ordered a cheap multitool. Already have one of these 52cc engines for an earth auger and although heavy, they do work. Should have plenty of power. eSkde 52cc 5 in 1 Petrol Garden Multi Tool Hedge Trimmer Chainsaw Strimmer Brushcutter Chainsaw 2 Stroke MT52-S23 : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Great prices on your favourite Gardening brands, and free delivery on eligible orders. Whole kit is cheaper than a branded hedger attachment. I'll experiment powering it with a brushless chainsaw.

Good drawing, helps a lot understanding the layout. Sunlight will play nearly no part of this as the trees are to the north west of them, but will be blocking your morning and afternoon sunlight, if Im reading it correctly. Please could you also get a photo showing the height of your trees, plus a rough guess in meters for each. Removing the trees might cause you to have ground movement issues. Their money would be better spent fixing their problems, drainage, foundations etc rather than removing trees. I'd guess the extensive boulding work of extensions and the pool might be more to blame. Whilst you could have them do an arborist survey to map the roots it would likely be more beneficial to have them do a surveyor specialising in ground movement to examine it. I suggest you demand to see a report made by a relevant profession explaining in detail, why the trees are causing the issue and what should be done to remedy it. Its no good if somone has just guessed the trees and thats their first try. You can say you want to see the report and get a second opinion, and if it does highlight a real problem, only then you will give permission.

For now this chains a one-off so wont be doing more anytime soon, should last ages and I have 3 good original chains to be used up. Mark is correct, LSE do have the tie straps. I'm sure I previously looked and couldnt find any.. anyway as they are not suitable for other brands I have no use for any more right now. Anyway as for the cutters, looks almost identical to the originals except a slightly more square on the chisel. Hope to try it next week! Need to also get the 1/4" sprocket off and try the 3/8" in this..

Had time to shorten the 64DL to 60DL today. Stihl are a bit stingy on the rivet pins as unlike other chains, theres not enough meat to reuse them, and new 1/4" master links are near unobtainium. The pins and their holes in the drive link are smaller diameter than other 1/4" chains, tho I could have enlarged them, or used lathe to turn new pins, but I have stuff infront of it for the moment. I am out of gas for the tig welder, so stick weld it is! 1.6mm electrodes, are still on the large side for tiny delicate chains, but have had success before. Not pretty but perfectly functional, the links move freely and will not be coming off, tempered at 230c so wont be brittle.

It would help is uf you could provide an aerial photo, or if not, a simple drawing of the layout, showing the location of trees, house, garden boundries and the pool, with north marked to give an idea of sunlight distribution.

Not just ground down, you want the stumps fully removed and them to pay for it! Given that roots are the supposed problem anyway. Stump grinding only goes down a few inches. Digging around and winching out will be more complete but time consuming, a task for a landscaper rather than arborist, at their expense. Seems you have plenty to counter any suit and if you like the trees I wouldnt be bullied to remove them. Roots can be mapped to show if they are or not a problem and you could request they do that before cutting. Wouldnt suprise me if its all made up about subsidence with the owners just wanting more light over the pool. Note that insurers do not care about individual cases. In the motor insurance they often trade X many claims against Y from another insurer rather than on the merits of each case. They want low risk and are going by what their customer has told them, they are unlikely to have visited themselves. I believe there is a requirement in building control regs or something to prevent surface run off onto a boundry, they should have adequate drainage for the paved area so that you do not recieve their water.

I've just bought some 3m X5A's which will do for noise, even so I'd prefer not to need them for hedging. Wearing them briefly indoors seemed to give me a headache. @Joe Newton No I am just after something fit for purpose and not excessively loud. Quite happily spent £400 on the Echo 2511TESC which is a great saw and would again if I lost it. The Makita, which on previous page seems to be winning, is £340 and within my budget, tho possibly doesnt have as much length as a multitool option and extension. Just been to the Echo dealer. I did t realise just how extortionate their battery tools are. £400 just for power unit, £400 for attachements, £300 for a battery and I didnt ask about the charger. The extension pole however, was a reasonably priced £69. Looks like £1300+ compared to £700-800 for a dedicated petrol tool from the main brands. They had one of these but couldnt tell me the price, it looked to have a decent blade and lighter than the Echo. Anyone know if they are good? EH230DSL MARUYAMA-US.COM Rugged and reliable, outstanding power and performance, great balance, and blade lengths, styles, and engine classes to meet nearly any... Anyway Im currently in two minds. I could use a basic petrol 52cc multitool with a strimmer/polesaw for very rare/occasional use, so I am tempted to get a cheap kit off amazon. It will be heavy and uncomfortable. I could then adapt a Fakita brushless chainsaw to be a power unit for the hedger attachement. That would be cheap, plenty of power, already have suitable batteries and possibly lighter than the commercial offerings too.

I meant the max branch diameter/blade spacing, is listed as 23mm. Whether it can manage to cut it is another matter unless its soft lile bramble.

Have a few days off so some time to look at tools, I still need a decent cordless hedger. Is that the DUN500WZ model? 503 - Service Unavailable Error WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Shows the max cut as 23mm, seems plenty?! Not sure what the Stihl petrol ones are.

These were thick 30mm brambles. Quite sure a bit got caught inside the cable and yanked it off the pulley as I pulled the stick out. Its not the normal expected use for this tool. I will remove the rivet for a shoulder bolt and a taller pulley so it cant happen again. The length and reach and use of the tool are great. Anyway the Milwaunkee above seems good but its only 3m, not adjustable angle, heavier and £600+. I'm not convinced it would do the thinner stuff as well as the manual one, and that is most of what we use it for. That wouldnt be so bad if the head was replacable for a polesaw and hedge trimmer, but its not, they are all seperate tools that would be very expensive.. I now have a spare bracket for the saw attachement, so I might fit my fakita tools onto that for polesaw and electric pruner use.

Those external string types are nasty, do not like. The anvil is facing downwards, fixed angle and bulky, its hard to target the branch you want. The Fiskars style is slimline, for example, you can go through a bush and nip a bramble at the centre then pull it out in one length. 100x nicer to use, particually from a ladder or up a tree. The Ars ones appear to be a 1:1 ratio as the handle has very little travel, wont be much good! Also half the length. Also to add, B&Q were sold out so I originally got a refund. Screwfix sell them and was a lot closer than the next B&Q so got replacement there.

Many of you use one of these? My mate had a pair of the Fiskars, which were excellent, and you'd hope so at £130. Sadly due to a lack of maintence, one is broken and needs a new string and the other recently was stolen along with a rake - tho Id say more likely they fell off somewhere around the m25. We use it just as much from the ground as from ladder or in the tree. I have just bought the cheaper Magnusson version for £85, yesterday. It seems good quality, likely from the same factory. This one comes with a saw blade where as the Fiskars its an extra. Magnusson Tree Bypass Telescopic Loppers WWW.DIY.COM The extended reach of this tree lopper allows access to high tree branches without the need of a ladder, whilst allowing for trimming at ground... After an hours use copping bramble and puling them out, the cable fell off the pulley. The problem is that little guard over the pulley is riveted on, I could have drilled it out for a shoulder bolt, but it was easier to get a replacement. They said swapping a bolt wouldnt harm warranty either. Good tool in my opinion.

Dont pollard them. They will tollerate a reduction of say 3 meters with no problem.

Thirty six pounds for a shiting plastic clip!? I shall not be paying that. Saw and bought these X5A's reduced to £31. I shall wear them for chipping. I might adapt the original protos bracket to fit them, as I'm never going to want the originals again once its done. 3M Peltor X5A Ear Defenders with Headband, Earmuffs for Reliable Hearing Protection Against High Noise Levels in Industrial Settings, 37 dB, Black : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Buy 3M Peltor X5A Ear Defenders with Headband, Earmuffs for Reliable Hearing Protection Against High Noise Levels in Industrial Settings, 37 dB...

This tree is a message from above that the owner, is a dick. It does appear to have more topping points above giving it the widened ballbag type appearance. Perhaps a lesson, dont top connifers as they could grow into a cock shape.

I have £50 Fakita 6" single handed pruning saw. I was after something extremely light and its 1.2kg including the battery. I did intend to get a brushless one but misread the listing and it has a 775 DC motor. I was going to return it but kept it for the two decent enough batteries. It proved itself one day I only had the 2511 or this and had to cut a low stump. Motor is big enough that its not likely to burn out and has reasonable power. I also suggest an electric finger chopper, very good if the cuts are all under 40mm. I have done a few fruit trees entirely with it. I regret not getting one with a pole extension! Be very careful where you have your fingers! The finger chopper is also a Fakita. Makita do make them but at a ridiculous price £600+ and with a lower jaw capacity, so this is likely better. It is great for trimming ivy without damaging bark on a tree.

Do you have a link to the Bahco? Is it a pruning tool or just a pole? I quite often use a throw ball in the tree to reach limbs that I cant throw a normal rope to. We have a 4 meter Fiskars UP86/UPX86 pole pruner which is great for pruning small stuff, grabbing a rope or ball after throwing. Also very handy to retrieve branches that should not have fallen on the wrong side of a customers fence. Saved me a few, would be embarrasing knocks on neghbours doors to gain access to tidy up...

Drill what holes? In the new Stihl bar? If I have to get a replacement bar I'll go for the farmertec Holzfforma® Pro 10inch 1/4 .043 56DL Guide Bar For Stihl carving chainsaws mini chainsaws and many pole chainsaws replace OEM 3005-008-3403 from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM Holzfforma® Pro 10inch 1/4 .043 56DL Guide Bar For Stihl carving chainsaws mini chainsaws and many pole chainsaws replace OEM...

I am very happy with my G372XP. Some minor issues with the original tank but they sent me a good replacement and has ran perfectly since. Had a reasonable amount of use this year blocking down larger trunks. Lots of power. Theres very little weight or size saving on a smaller model so just get the 72cc. Pardon our interruption... WWW.EBAY.CO.UK 71cc Holzfforma® Orange Dark Gray G372 Gasoline Chain Saw Power Head 50mm Bore Without Guide Bar and Chain Top Quality By Farmertec All Parts Are For Husqvarna 372XP Chainsaw from China manufacturer - Farmertec WWW.FARMERTEC.COM 71cc Holzfforma® Orange Dark Gray G372 Gasoline Chain Saw Power Head 50mm Bore Without Guide Bar and Chain Top Quality By...

Saw this in the comments So hold off if wanting to buy a new rope runner 😆

Fair enough I will get one. I see the PM3 1/4" - is that the correct one? is listed as micro chisel which may be near enough full chisel to get the 10% they claim. Even so it is more cutting surface area in the wood at any time which eats power. Where is the best place to buy one? And chains in general for that matter. I'm going to get a 3/8LP FC anyway to try. However I dont see that I need a new bar. Stihl dont do it in 60DL so I'll get a 12" 64DL? and shorten it.