kram

Rather not travel half way across the country just to try on some boots. I was hoping a forum of experienced climbers would have a recommendation.

Arbortec Scafell any good?

I want to get new boots. What do you use or recommend? I'm currently wearing a pair of Andrews and while the protection is good, nothing else is, including the fit is about a size too big, but thats all they had at the time. Main annoyances are the lack of grip while climbing and the toe box is huge, often my foot wont fit in the gap between branches. Its like wearing a brick!

Recently I've been using cheap mini saw chains and join them to 60 links, but yesterday and today I had issue with two that were either not sharp to begin with or dulling quickly (normally last me weeks between swaps or sharpens), and I dont generally mess about sharpening when I want to be climbing. We were retopping a large leylandii hedge. I swapped a new genuine echo chain. Its immediately noticable on thinner drier/dead wood that the rakers are perhaps a bit too agressive out if the box. I suspect it will cut nicer after a sharpen but leavjng the rakers as they are

We do have insurance its just I dont believe I would ever benefit from it, and I hope it is never needed. If I injure myself using my own gear I dont think I have any right to. Its a bit different when your employer supplies the kit which may not be up to standard. Anyway if Im dead or seriously injured, they can fine me all they like as I wont be able to pay a penny! Insurance is, after all, only about money, nothing more, keeping the bankers rich. While I like climbing with multiple tie ins, I have never seen anyone else in the industry do it and is likely the best example. I've also never seen a written risk assesment by anyone I worked with - thats a big HSE fine just waiting for an excuse.

Your the one in disney land Frenchy.

Im excempt from the LOLER bolllocks as Im a recreation climber, mostly doing it for fun and beer monies. My boss tells me insurance is never worth the paper its written on which is true, no one climbs with 2 ropes to the HSE specification... And so many other issues that would void a claim. Most of my kit is well past its LOLER date, however I am more competent than most LOLER testers that I've met and I do check it myself. I'd like to see HSE try me in court! I also do my own splices.

Two a day, he generally does only two at a time. Some of the training we had 6 of us but he bought in a couple more experienced climbers/trainee instructors whi were also pretty good. My only complaint with him is organisation being poor and not always brining all the kit. Thats mostly due to me having my own and saying Id prefer to use mine.

He is a good instructor, lots of knowlege just not expensive (or well organised!) I used the phone on his website at various hours also left a message, I can only assume he didnt want more customers, anyway doesn t matter I have all my tickets now. Seperate ticket but usually taught as a course and assessed onthe same day.

It has arrived! My opinion the quality is good and would happily use it. I cut the heatshrink off one end to check the crimp and visually it looks good. The outer cover is resin bonded to the wire and covered with a generous amount of thick heatshrink. Carabiner is a decent weight of alu but is a twist lock rather tham triple locker. Swivel snap hook seems good but heavy, again its two action rather than three. I'd likely cut this off as I prefer carabiners. There is no overall ID/ ratings label for the wire core although the hook, grab and carabiner are marked.

Theres an instructor near me who is likely a bit cheaper and good enough, in Crawley Down. Scott Fraser was recommended to me, could I get him to pick up his phone? These tickets only give the minimum to cover an employers backside, rather than make you any good at it, very much like learner/new drivers. I wouldnt want to be relying on a new climber for rescue. Are you not doing chainsaw from harness at the same time, which is normallly together with it?

Even if the saw runs bad that wouldnt cause any lack of control. Whats your level of experience with other saws? Could you get a video, get somone to film while you cut something? If you cut with the top of the bar it will try to push out, and top corner kick back at you. Bottom of the bar will pull the saw in for a good stable cut. Loosen bar nut, 1/8-1/4 turnat a time, push chain round and check by pulling chain away. Tightenng the nut on mine always makes the chain sit better and push around much easier, which I have not worked out why, the opposite to most saws that will slightly increase tension as the bar is clamped tight.

Could be just the normal dealer bullshit, they will say anything to get a sale or avoid blame. If its true, may help others if you can get a copy of the instructions? Theres only 3 adjustment screws on the carb so setting it up is just that, not to say there isnt a long process to get them in the correct place...

No problems with mine, exceptionally easy to start and I dont see why that would change over 3 months use. I drain the fuel out each day so the fuel cant go bad. Bought it in Dec but not using every day. I notice the other guys 151TC feels like it has much higher compression, wasnt expecting it to take that much force to start! However my 2511 has felt like it does from new. I dont know if his 151 is standard. His 500i is the same, that hurts my wrists to start! Now my 020T has recently been playing up, too easy to pull over and wouldnt start but, if I got it running was fine. Had a look today and swapped a new sparkplug, felt better and started instantly. I think the plug sealing washer had gone from reusing the plug a couple times ( pulled it last week to check colour).

We have a Fiskas UP86 which is normally great but it wouldnt cut the cherry, a bit too hard and thick for it. I see you can buy these with a pole extension but I dont think you can get it seperately, as mine doesnt have contacts for the switch. Doesnt exist yet but would be great if they made a short extendable one, say from a foot to a metre, with an angled head. I may have to get a cheap one to modify! A video showed that cutting diagonally rather than straight may also help it cut but I havent tried yet. Thanks. Yes it would be easy to forget how easily these could remove a digit! A tool that needs respect and also to be kept away from customers and children, not left unattended like you might a petrol saw in a corner of garden, but perhaps that rule applies for all cordless tools?

Try rinsing it out with fuel. If it leaked with oil, fuel will piss out and tell you exactly where the problem is.

Bought one of these as I thought it would be great for pruning reductions where a climbing saw is a bit bulky to use. For those that dont like cheap, Makita DUP362 is what you want. £1111.47! Makita DUP362Z Twin 18V (36V) Li-ion LXT Pruning Shears - Batteries and Charger Not Included : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Makita DUP362Z Twin 18V (36V) Li-ion LXT Pruning Shears - Batteries and Charger Not... Or Up100d for £700 503 - Service Unavailable Error WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK 503 - Service Unavailable Error WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Yes its an import and appears to be an improved spec copy of the UP100D but I cant fault the construction, 5.6mm thick blades, the gears look strong. Spec is better than the DUP362, in that it has wider jaws and will cut 38mm rather than just 33mm. Advertised as being upto 60mm but realistically it will fit 34-38mm as a maximum, 58mm between the fully open tips. Seems to cut near anything that fits the jaws. Its quite impressive what it will cut! Some harder stuff takes 3 or 4 presses. It will do 60mm ivy if you do a few cuts 2 inch apart. Its not going to damage the bark like a chainsaw could if you trim ivy with this. Anyone else used them, opinions? Today was two cherry pruning reductions, 1 meter from the tips. I took the 2511 up with me but only used it for a rotten 8" stem. I think the pruner is quicker if it fits the jaws. Only concern is other people, always turning it off so that no one can play with it. Theres a switch and a slow double trigger sequence to turn it on.

If its not power, it looks like theres a good sound tree to climb and anchor next to it which would allow blocking down the top. I cant see a transformer, so if it is power, may be its just the feed to that street light? May be worth trying one of those cheap inductive non contact AC testers on the conduit.

I hope not, I am quite happy with the current situation. Most of the issues with brexit were actually caused by French stubbonness and covid, and the French can and will be arseholes at anytime they like. I am not fond of the French, Belgish or Germans, but like all other Europeans. I do not like how Europe is run, some of the laws enforced on us here while largely ignored in the rest of EU so I am pleased we are out. Europeans seem to have the biggest problem buying from us, we can buy from them with little issue or delay, I find quite amusing, a great punishment for our Brexit. I saw the French are blaming us in the UK for the channel crossings and deaths, apparantly our open and unchecked job market is what the migrants are attracted to. In reality its UK, US and EU policies for the last 50 years keeping much of Africa and the migrant areas poor. For example only raw materials can be imported from developing countries, with all processing and packaging within Europe. Guess where the money and value is made? The US has the same issues with South America. Keep your neighbours in poverty and you will have problems. Reguarding the channel crossings and migrants, I would send the navy to capture any dingies and return them as soon as they leave the French coast. It would avoid any more deaths. French police are apparently scared of damaging any massively overloaded dinghy in safe shallow water, better to wait for it to fail in deep English waters. However while the number of migrants are a bit of a problem on our under funded services, housing etc.. its a drop in the ocean compared to the scale of it in Europe. As for travel, I dont generally go to Europe,, there are more interesting places in the world.

It appears to have been butchered and cut right back to about 1 metre height in the past, with no care for its health - some of the cuts were done such that they peeled the bark off quite a way down the trunk. Cutting a tree in this way causes an explosion of new shoots, which have all been allowed to grow, I count around 12 leaders in your pic which is not ideal unless you want a hedge. It looks to have had 3 to 5 years of growth since. You can see the peeler wounds have started to callous over although two near the base have started to rot and hollow out. The wounds themselves are healing and best left as they are. Get a clean stick and poke the wounds to see how deep they are rotting or hollow. It is naturally a multi stem tree however the growth is not ideal and its hard to advise from a few pictures. You may want to remove some stems particually where they start very close to another to avoid included bark, or the ones with the large wounds if they are rotting. There is a smaller stem in the last pictures, I would remove that. It will likely become much larger in 10 or 20 years and that is when problems will occur where the stems join. It is better to prune a tree while it is young as the wounds are smaller, its ability to callous over them is better.

Appears the best Stihl petrol KM engine is slightly under the 2hp of the GX50. I assume the GX50 must be heavier but apart from that it sounds better.

Seen this today between two street trees. Its a fair size and looks quite old. Firm when prodded with foot. What is it?

Anyone interested? never been used.

You know that stihl chains are available in 60DL? Does cost a few quid more though. Stihl 10" Picco Micro 3 (PM3) 1/4" P .043" (1.1mm) Chainsaw Chain 3670-000-0060 - 60 Drive Links - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK Stihl 3670 000 0060 Chainsaw Chain - Stihl Picco Micro Comfort 3 - PMC3 - 60 Drive Links Low-vibration low-profile saw chain with the high...

I have a couple of spare new Echo 10" carving bars in 0.050" gauge that I bought by mistake, I'm never going to use them as I like 0.043". Today I was converting two packs of 5 cheapy chains into five 60DL for the 2511. I have used them before on the cordless so I know quality is ok. The only issue is that master links are not available anywhere so I have had to reuse them. I could turn some new pins on the lathe but until one fails I cant say its worth the extra effort. Ordered a couple more packs of the cheapy chains as I like having lots of spares.