kram

Had a look today, both neighbours were out so couldnt get access from their gardens. The garden to the right has nothing to damage, nice clear grass for a drop zone, but not directly under tree. Heres a photo from the road. I went up the beech to have a better look, decided not to swing across incase I push it over! I previously thought there was still some life and leaves on the birch but I was wrong, it is 100% dead. All green is from the beech. My current idea is that I want to be roped in to the beech, with the ladder under me, and possibly speed line anchored on the beech, send everything away near to the road ( not done a speed line before)

I got one of these today as I need a small saw, to stop me abusing my 020T on the ground. 18" full chisel .325" chain 53cc 2kW/2.7HP £60 Seems adequate for my use. Any bigger stuff I will use the G327XP.

Finished upgrading the pivot on mine. Much smoother with no play. I can now set it accurately and do the chain all the same length. Its been a year on the healing bench and I have lost the pivot spring that holds it up, which means I am tying it to the wall with a bungee cord. I notice another flaw that was hidden by the pivot. For anything but a light touchup, the base is flexing and changing the angle of the tooth with poor results. Holding the end down, by the swivel, prevents it. Instead I plan to bolt the base to a peice of 4mm steel sheet so it cant move.

A friend has this at the back of her garden. Its under an enourmous beech tree, so the birch is growing off to one side with quite a lean. From just above fence height it leaves her garden and over hangs three gardens with sheds, with no good drop zone. The beech is healthy and will provide a good safe anchor point for climbing blocking down the birch. I believe I'm correct to advise that it should be removed. What do you think?

I've had one about a year, it makes an exceptionally sharp chain, much sharper than a file will get it. It also gives the correct angle, where as any manual filed chain is going to be slightly off and different each tooth. I try to avoid filing my chains as it means the grinder will have to take more off to get the correct angle back. For about double the price Einhell do a cordless version which would be better for me. I think the build quality is just as bad. The problem is general loose fit of the parts. I made up a fine threaded adjuster. The main pivot bores on mine measure 8.6mm but the pin is 7.9mm, so it has 1.4mm of slop! An easy fix is to replace the pin with one measuring 8.6mm or near as you can find. With the slop, you can go side to side, you dont need to set it up accurately. Each tooth will be a slightly different length. Mini 1/4" .043" chains are impossible, too much slop and you easily cut off a tooth. which are what I use on my Echo 2511. Works well on 3/8 LP, 3/8 and .325 chains. Without the slop, the teeth should be equal length but you would need to start on the shortest/most damaged. Should have mine upgraded today and then I will try it on some small chains.

My posts above were with a TESC 1/4" carving bar and new genuine chain, which I think co.e.with the rakers too low. I had a pair of Rotatec E0, 1/4" pitch 0.043" 45 DL chains gathering dust. I'm not sure they sell this size any more? Anyway I broke and joined them to make a 60DL. While this chain is physically wider and bigger teeth, it is smooth, finding the saw feels more capable and faster with it.

I have a Protos helmet and the original ear defenders are not too great, perhaps due to their compact size. I know there are upgrades to 3M Peltor ear defenders, does anyone know which models fit? From looking at the 3M ones I believe the X1-X5 are supposed to be the best protection for there size? With X5 being very large. Amazon has Peltor 3 and some others cheap at the moment. I might get some X5's or 3's for when I'm feeding the chipper. If I were starting again, I wouldnt waste the money on Protos, I didnt realise how much bigger it is. Thanks

I have a small ash sapling in a pot from 2022. I noticed the lower leaves seem to be browning and dropping much before the newer upper foliage which is still a bit green. These popped up in the last couple days. Is it honey fungus or a root fungus? Perhaps I should repot it, wash the soil away from the roots and use fresh compost?

Neither material has any issue being dropped. If it lands on concrete and burrs the surface, it will want to be filed smooth before you run another rope through it. All grades used in climbing gear have reasonable ductility. "Micro fractures" is not a term that is used In metallurgy in this sort of context. @Mr. Squirrelthat looks like what I want to make. What did the pro splicers take issue with, the length? I'd probably go a bit longer as it looks a pain to splice it that short, and the central lockstich looks redundant?

The system could also manage the subbies payment and take 10% !

Rings from here, tho steel may be over the top. I got them for use as cinching anchors where I didnt want to trust alu but the small is a bit small, and big is too big for that use, so instead have some DMM 34mm alu ones for cinching. At Height 70kN forged Steel O Ring - Honey Brothers HONEYBROS.COM At Height 70kN forged Steel O Ring from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry. Alu ones At Height 25kN Forged Aluminium O Ring - Honey Brothers HONEYBROS.COM At Height 25kN Forged Aluminium O Ring from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry. Yes seen the Stein ones, I think their shorter 90cm one will be about double the length I want. The longer it is, the lower your top anchor becomes on a small stem. I assume that any multiple wraps around the stem makes it non retrievable.

Ah, I made a mistake there, the clove hitch and stopper should be on the small ring with the large ring having a spliced eye, so that nothing can get stuck. However after a quick test, a clove hitch wont work on a small ring as it wants to fold over, to become just two loops in the ring, although the stopper does stop it pulling out completely, its not going to be reliable. Perhaps with a pair of bigger rings it could work, but I dont have them. I was intending to avoid using a prussik loop but that might be the best solution.

It does appear to do everything except for being quite large and bulky to carry up on harness, and expensive for what is a peice of rope and three rings. I have large and small steel rings and some spare rope already. I am thinking a tied clove hitch on the big ring in the middle will allow adjustment, spliced eyes with small ring on each end. Or one end with a barrel stopper, I'm not sure if its useful to have one on each end. A quick example without splicing, probably wants to be a lot shorter. Ignore the tail.

The thimble is also loose which could rub and cut the rope. If you use a thimble it needs to be held securely in the knotted/sewn or spliced eye and the bowline needs a stopper. The rope looks clean enough, if its double braid I would splice the eye, or a scaffold knot. I dont see any point of a swivel carabiner on a rope lanyard as they are not stiff against twisting like a wire cord. I'm yet to find a swivel with a shape I like, they all sit badly on the harness ring. Why cant they make them with ovals?!

Looking to get one, unsure what length or whether to have an adjustable prussik type, or just plain ring on each end. I'd be fitting it as a retriveable anchor when I get to the top. I dont generally bother with a throw bag. I remember being told that they work great over limbs but difficult to retrive if around a stem. I imagine I would use it mostly around the stem at the top. I currently use a small sling and steel carabiner for the purpose but its not retrievable.

Ah, the unreliability of tree workers, bosses and general ****************wits of this industry. It will never work.

Ignoring the law for a moment, will your business insurance cover you for moving cars? Could be expensive if it goes wrong. I would also be quite irritated if anyone touched my car without permission. We quite often place signs/notices up a few days before a job if needed, but they are "Please do not park" rather than official closure of the parking area. For street parking you probably need to pay the council to close it, they put the yellow signs up, and only then could you ask the council to move any the cars. No idea if its a private parking area. One flat/car owner was on holiday so car couldnt be moved, so we chucked a load of ton bags over it and guarded from drops using a rake. If it was more than one car it could have delayed the job.

I have not used a tipper trailer. A manual tipper likely comes with a single action ram and lowers by a release valve back to the tank. Often that release valve on manual stuff is along side the pump so you might need to get a valve for that. Commercial electric pumped versions might have a double acting ram where it will lower under power.

Forgive my stupidity, whats the difference? What do you gain from this upgrade? Could these be made to fit an old 020T? Mine was playing up a bit today, working in the rain it took ages to warm up and occasionally a pain to keep running. Likely it needs a bit of adjustment.

Sold out now, was on amazon. They are Chinese 20" .325 0.58" chains although they came as 76 link, I had to break and rejoin them to 78 links to fit.

Saw is running great, including the cheap chains. One annoyance it has an open exhaust with no baffle/spark arrester or anything like that. I find the exhaust heat is burning the wood and on connifer, painful to breath ! Is the proper 372XP exhaust different? Maybe I should get a genuine one or add a baffle. Thanks Mark.

How did you do that? A little bit bruised, Im guessing no lasting injury? Part of the risk of being a climber. I think I'd prefer better grip so I can be more stable while cutting. They all seem to have Vibram shite outsoles so no grip and will be near the same whichever I choose. My mate said his Scafells are 4 years old and they still look decent, soles not delaminating, they look pretty good - much better than the rest of his kit! Honeybrothers list a few unknown brand "climbing boots" that do not seem to be chainsaw rated safety boots. To be honest I think the toe area is most at risk of being cut and any cheap pair of safety toe cap boots would likely provide adequate protection. When I hit my Andrews it was just a nick in the outer rubber before I realised, right above the big toe. Are boots like gloves where the protection is only a tiny area on the back of left hand? (I should probably know this).

My pair of Andrews are not worn out, not comfortable but I'd likely wear them for spiking and general ground work, so really after a boot just for climbing. Seems to me that for climbing you want shallow tread not the deep blocky tread for mud that is on most boots. Ideally one wouldnt reach down and cut anywhere near foot level - hopefully I have learnt that lesson now.. ! So perhaps cut and crush protection is not too important in the tree but perhaps I'll get more experience before I get boots without. I'd disagree, its a compromise on cost, if they use decent rubber it will last. Years ago I have resoled motorcycle boots with Metzler Racetec tyre rubber and the grip is huge improvement and it lasts. These were Aplinestars and one of their best and more expensive pairs, the grip was dangerous in wet conditions as standard! I also resole my rock climbing shoes with the same tyre rubber. Very good grip. I dont want to be resoleing new climbing boots, it wont look great and might mess with foot puncture protection. I had a decking nail in my foot months ago, doing my brothers tree. Finished climbing and changed into crocs for the cleanup!

@manco@pedsr @rapalaman What do you use?

It appears they blame the oil change interval for most failures however plenty have gone bang with oil and belt changed early. I was lucky that a Honda dealership salesman warned me not to consider anything of theirs or otherwise with a wet belt when I returned to car ownership. Ended up with a pretty good 2010 Mazda 6, low miles in great condition. Too small for arb work tho.