kram
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Everything posted by kram
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My friend has problems with his ST6P and this thread came up. Has anyone had problems with cracks on the flywheel fan blade welds? They want to replace the flywheel but its extremely expensive. Its a 2017. The main issue, the feed roller snapped and is getting repaired. I am wondering if this can be welded in situ, grind out the cracks and re weld. I'm not a professional welder but can do TIG and stick. I am unsure about something this size however - it should likely be preheated to avoid cracking, and very difficult to heat something that size, in place, without over heating anything else. It will be a very heavy lump so no chance of us stripping it out ourselves.
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£29.. may be worth a try as amazon returns are easy.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Housing-Handle-STIHL-MS440-Chainsaw/dp/B07BW3Z1QX
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A cordless ratchet is a great tool, they dont have the hammer or power of an impact wrench so are not going to strip any heads. Great when theres bad access to a bolt. If the heads are covered in shite, you need to clean that, whatever tool your using.
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500i? This is all my mate uses when his MS151 is too small.
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Done. Video did not work out as it was pointing at my feet! I've never been good with videos. Much of it was already removed which they did with hand saws, must have taken ages. I started somewhere halfway up. Gentle angled cuts then touch in the middle, and it often pings off. Once I had a cut all along I wedged it futher from the wall with some cuttings, that gave clearance to cut along the bottom and then the top with no risk to the chain. I dont have a suitable ladder here, so couldnt properly reach the roof. Carefull nibbling away at the ivy got the wall cleared. My chain was already a little blunt and I did touch a few times early on, it'll sharpen up ok. I always use cheap chains for this sort of job. I used the 020T.
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Can you put some pictures up? I would not choose Stihl for any battery tools, from what I have seen they are well behind other power tool manufacturers. Having searched the part number, the motor appears to be a cheapy 775 size DC motor.This is not a proper tool motor - but the sort of thing you expect from a Lidl. These motors overheat for fun, not suitable for this sort of work. You may be able to easily swap it. The difficulty will be removing the gear from the motor shaft and re installing on a new motor. They are likely a shrink/interferance/press fit. The problem is it will likely happen again. I would suggest a different brand with brushless motor. Stihls homeowner grade battery tools are junk.
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Noticed this a few times, is there a way to turn it off and just show me all posts in date order?
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You cant just fell your neighbours garden trees without their permission. I believe council are only relevant if TPO or conservation area, but still requires the owners permission. You can trim back to your boundry but thats it. Without permission would be tresspass, criminal damage and possibly more. Not to mention, if there is a genuine reason for removal, example tree being dangerous, the owner should be paying for its maintence.
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If the top is struggling that would suggest to me a root problem or rot preventing adequate nutrients from being absorbed. Have you a photo at the base of the tree?
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Not feeling like it today, I've caught the snots and a bad headache, dont want to spread it to my friends.. Technique is simple, do a 45 degree angled cut most the way through the ivy. Repeat this a couple inches away. Next, touch the bottom nose of the saw somewhere between the cuts, and the peice will ping off towards you. I shall attempt to get a video tomorrow.
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Its a very short wall, end and back wall of a garage. Its grown into and around the roof so there will be no peeling it off in sheets before cutting along the top. the bits grown inside the roof will be left to die and then removed later. I wont be damaging tools or the brick! I quite enjoy my chainsaw method as I use the bar nose to ping the pieces off in a controlled way. Peeling is enjoyable yes, quite often I would peel everything out of a tree, cut and pull, amazing how strong it is I'd like to try the brush cutter, I just dont know if its suitable. Its certainally not a tool to try out with a paying customer watching but this is just a friends garage and I get to park next to it. I may have a go in afternoon.
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I have trimmed a reasonable amount of ivy, usually with chainsaw. Two partial cuts and then hit the middle, the lump will ping off with no damage to bark and no risk to chain. A friend has a brick wall garage, lots of inch thick ivy. It occurs to me I have not tried my 3 blade brush cutter attachement yet. (Used plenty of trimmers). I'll likely do it with chainsaw as it works and its quick, atleast the higher up stuff. Is a brush cutter blade any good for ivy along the base of the wall? I realise it would need a lot of care, but as I said, not used it before. Good excuse to try a new tool or a bad idea? Thanks.
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Looks like I will be putting the old cylinder back on the auger! I have ordered and now returned three aftermarket cyl kits. They all appear to be made from recycled cans, porous castings, holes in the plating.
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A lathe is the best option. Buy a lathe. Second best option is grind it off with a 40 grit flap disc. 3rd best is if your welding the nut anyway, welding heat will have it fall out. What are you needing m24 size nuts for?
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Yes it ran well, very little change since I originally repaired it, I have just found a pic from when it originally siezed. The rings were stuck with alu smeared into the grooves, yes there was a lump missing above the ring. I dont like having tools in a poor state like that, however it does not need any more power. If it hits a brick, large root or concrete, it can hurt or rip out your hands. I dont expect to be doing any more fence holes. The 16:1 gearbox makes me think it might have some other uses.
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I had to check the engine auger, knowing that it previously siezed. I couldnt find parts at the time so cleaned up best I could and reassembled. It ran well enough and did many more fence holes. The original sieze was caused by the cylinder being only loosely assembled from new. 130psi is not bad, considering the abuse. Pulled it apart for a closer look, and its exactly as I remember, it has not got noticably worse and would still live if I reassembled it I have ordered a couple of cylinder kits but the first is likely worse than whats on there, so thats being returned - porous casting with holes in the plating.
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I dont like petrol fumes where I keep the saws.
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I drain after each day even if using it the next day. If I'm not using for a while then I will run them - which I did not do last time, and so my G372xp currently has some minor carb issues. If fuel mix is stored in a gallon can in a dark cold area, it'll be ok for a few months in winter. Dont leave it in the saw. I got some cheap fuel/oil caps off amazon and drilled them out (carbide burr, a drill will go sideways), ideal for draining without making a mess. A little dirt wont matter, all tools should have filters. If the dirt gets excessive, a coffee filter works well.
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It is interesting as their spec is underpowered for the displacement and the McCulloch atleast, is underpowered, but a high compression should give more power? Either way, they do the job and adequate for the little ground work I do. The G372XP, I am thinking of getting a better pattern cylinder kit. Meteor and Hyway seem to get good reviews? I have a few more to test, BG86 blower to test, its down on power but the cylinder looks good, looking through the exhaust. An earth auger, that previously siezed years ago, still runs adequately after cleaning up the piston and ring groove. My Echo 2511T, runs great, I need to make a thread adaptor for the tester.
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Tested my kit today, I'm wondering what a good result should be. All were checked after warming up, filter removed, throttle open. Using one of these Husqvarna testers https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/compression-tester-genuine-husqvarna-part-531-03-16-86.html G372XP, around 130psi. Runs ok but cyl has some marks. Hyundai blower, 140psi. 020T 145psi. McCulloch CS340 195 psi. That was a suprise, used to run great but the carb needs some adjustment. Lidl 53cc, 215 psi.
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Could there be any other causes of this problem? Its a pain to turn over even with the ignition off, so perhaps I have gone down the wrong rabbit hole. Add a decompression button? A bit more testing and the recoil has broken, only retracts if you help it, but the spring is still very strong. Spring could be far too strong? I made up a bracket to delay the ignition about 6 or 7 degrees. Not had a proper test but it starts - then the recoil went..
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Amazon often have it cheap, I got a couple of 3mm x100m rolls for £14 each, £22 at the moment Oregon 90200 Heavy Duty Professional Starter Rope,White,3.0 mm x 100 M : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Oregon 90200 Heavy Duty Professional Starter Rope,White,3.0 mm x 100 M. I also use it for other stuff, like if I want to leave an anchor point in the tree for another day, I will pull this through instead of leaving my climbing rope.
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Having thought about it, my engine auger has the same issue of being a pain to start, hard pull or it hurts. Starting this combi is a real pain without the driveshaft fitted as theres not much to hold onto. I got myself a timing light. Red marks are TDC, ignore the first blue mark (strobe was set +10). With the light set at zero, the clockwise most blue mark is roughly 24 degrees. And just to help me avoid such stupidity in future I shall share my mistake. Do not start a clutched engine without the clutch bell/housing. I was lucky. A new spring is needed.. So is 24 degrees too much? Are there any variable coils I could fit for this engine? The ignition is consistant across the rev range with no change at higher rpm, although it did seem to vary a little between multiple starts. I'll confirm that tomorrow. Thanks.
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Yes, as close as possible would be best for a good spark, but it was suggested that a bigger gap could retard the timing. I'm thinking a gap change wont be enough, I'll either have to adjust the coil mounting or the flywheel key. If I slot the coil mount holes that will give a couple milimetrrs adjustment.
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Had a play with the 52cc chinese combi engine. I measured the gap at 0.35mm, enlarging to 0.5mm has not made a difference so I will try again to 0.8mm. I am thinking the flywheel timing, or coil mount holes will need to be modified. Someone mentioned variable advance coils, that retard below idle speed. Are there any that may fit this?
