kram

I did buy one for use as a cinching pole anchor but not using it, its not in my climbing kit bag at the moment. I have no worries about the safety of it, they had a few recalls already. Shortly after buying I saw this video. It works very well, the rings stay permenetly on my ropes, nothing to be dropped like a ultra or quicky. Perhaps the same will work for a base anchor? I dont use them.

Dont think it will be any different to the standard TESC. Cuts better you say? Its semi chisel, 1/4" pitch so more cutters in the wood and less efficient than a 3/8" full chisel. More cutters to be sharpened too. Carving bar is lighter. Narrow nose is useful for topping cuts and delicate pruning. Tho the standard bar on my mates MS151T is near enough the same size/shape as the carving bar anyway. The standard TES bar has a bigger nose. My carving bar is showing near zero wear after quite a lot of use, so I cant see a situation where the standard bar would be an advantage.

For what advantage? Near enough the same as the original TESC kit. @Joe Newtonr are not clutches a left hand thread so if anything they will tighten when reved or loaded?! It'll come off you run without a bar and kill the engine after revving to stop it or shut the throttle too quick from full speed - atleast if it was only hand tight, once its been cutting it should be tight as it'll get.

Perhaps I am mistaken, but have seen pictures of damage caused by a failed clutch. I assume it can occur if it becomes unbalanced, say if a spring broke or fell out. Over speeding too, I was warned never to run/test a saw without a bar and chain. Anyway back to chains. A 3/8LP sprocket has arrived and I plan to try the 2511 with a Stihl full chisel chain, preferably if I can I will keep using the narrow nose 10" carving bars. The nose radius might be too small for the cutter length in which case the rear of cutter will rub a bit like a high raker, so it wont do bore cuts. It should still cut normally away from the nose and after a few sharpenings, would be ok. I have a spare .050" bar so nothing lost by trying. I was looking at the Speedcut Nano system but they appear to be semi chisel, and a small saw like this could use the extra cutting efficiency. Would anyone know what length I need? Otherwise I can measure up a spare chain - but that means swapping the sprocket, which is a pain while its in daily use.. I could order a long one and shorten as needed, but prefer not to.

The problem is you are now aware you have an arsehole of a neighbour. You could play the fun game of, see whos a bigger arsehole. If it doesnt cost him, he will do it again, or worse. He has gone well past the boundry with that, although it wouldnt have looked too good, he has gone too far. The law on boundry trees says they can cut, but they cant force you to pay for the cut or to take back any waste. I'd be chucking it back over, speared into his lawn in a circle and leave a turd in the centre.

Thats quite a lot ! How do you know when the clutch springs are done? One of the possible situations with a chainsaw that scares me greatly is a clutch explosion!

Ah, do you have a photo from before it was cut? Looks like they have cut to the boundry which they are fully entitled to do. You can see it has previously been cut hard on your side so all of the growth is on the boundry. Remove and start again.

Add the photo here please? If it was a good, un butchered tree, and it has been pollarded, it could become a rubbish tree in that it will need regular maintence, as it will have greatly increased growth along with weakness and much higher risk of decay. Generally it will need cutting again within a few years, but most home owners will ignore it for 10 or so due to the cost. That is not to say that pollards are always bad, similarly if it has been done before, you will just have to accept it as it is. Make a case against them in the small claims court, as their action will cost you a great amount of money in the future. As a basis for your claim, get a quote for the tree to be removed and replaced with an equal sized tree using a tree spade (£££££££) and the recurring cost of a high maintence pollarded tree.

Brushed motor, in these sort of tools they usually burn out well before the brushes need replacing. Looks like a cheapy, with no branding on the battery? Suggest a new brushless one. Same situation myself I was going to look for a brushless Fakita.

I use one of these, it is cheap and nasty but seems to work ok for settingnup my G372XP Yooreal Digital Tachometer Hour Meter,SVC Timer,Resettable Hours,Replaceable Battery for Lawn Mower Generator Chainsaw Outboard Motor Snowblower Jet Ski Dirt Bike : Amazon.co.uk: Garden WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK Yooreal Digital Tachometer Hour Meter,SVC Timer,Resettable Hours,Replaceable Battery for Lawn Mower Generator Chainsaw Outboard...

I have plenty of 6082T6 alu bar in the shed if I wanted to make one. Can also anodise it cherry red so it wouldnt look too shite either. These graples and captain hooks are not rated as PPE, theres nothing to stop anyone doing that, or buying a 3 hook cheapy of amazon for a tenner and removing two of the hooks. The 150kg WLL is stated by Notch but havent listed a safety factor. Should it be rated as PPE? Lets say you climb to the top of something and grapple a tree 8 meters distant, and pull yourself across and just as you get there, the grapple releases. You have a 8m swing back to the first tree, with the same drop in height. If theres nothing to slow you down, or impale you on the way back, thats a lot of energy to be disipated when you hit the trunk. Perhaps equal to falling 4 or 5 meters, it would likely hurt depending on the rope angle - thats the important bit, but given UK trees are not that tall, the angle wont be too good. If you dont stay the same height as the grapple, you still have a 8m drop at a better rope angle but could be a ground fall. Reg seems to frequently climb very tall 60m conifers, solo without a groundy, jump across to a dead one etc.. while in the UK we are lucky to have many over 20-25 meters. The odd tree might go to 35m. I cant see it being very useful over here, but perhaps thats my lack of experience. I would throw my second rope and get groundy to attach it to first rope tail, pull it back up and DRT across, is how I'd go about it. Better than carrying a 600 gram device around with you. It looks silky shaped and sized so its going to catch on the saw lanyard every time.

HOW MUCH!?! One hundred and sixty quid for a folding hook. What a load of shite 🤣

Why wouldnt I use them? Everything so far has been used when it suits. I currently set a sling and carabiner at my high anchor point for working in the tree, so the short one will replace that to be retrievable. The long one only for large old limbs, which we have done a few of recently. 2 years Mike, the weight is for isolating, not for throwing.

Got a 5m rope for the purpose of making a 2.5m and 1m savers. Small eyes spliced and large to do. I have left the CE tag on the long one, may be enough for the loler guy.

For ease and lazyness I'd suggest an engine 2t auger with a drill to make a pilot hole of about 20mm smaller than the post you intend to knock in, that will make it very easy work. The bigger size drills may be useful for the larger planting holes too. I have one from doing fences, I enjoy using it and always looking for an excuse. I've not heard the term "mell" before , is that northern for maul? I use a scaff pole with a large lump of steel welded on the end, weighs about 8kg. Heavier is quicker.

Pictures please. It will likely need new bearings. May be the gears have eaten themselves but could likely be replaced much cheaper than a new head.

Never used one. I believe theres supposed to be a spring inside that riveted joint. It may be the spring has broken or came out of place. Probably not a safety issue but worth getting it checked.

I agree although they meant safer for other workers and trains rather than the worker. Also as above, forgot about the signal cables. Its not unsafe doing clearance with a saw, I've done a few small gardens like that. Rail has a lot of gravel, the perfect size to do damage yet not be too heavy. A strimmer can send it a long way. A more powerful brushcutter could be launching them into orbit and smashing nearby windows.

I've not used a brush cutter before, its probably the best option. For rail clearance, often above head hieght in thick brambles, we were waving ms261's and hedgers around like jedi. Saw is quicker and you can still get right near the ground. Requires some care not to hit any rubbish/wire that may be amongst it, which there often is on rail. I believe rail work, or perhaps just our contractor, had a safety ban on brush cutters. Strimmers with nylon cord were used, not the most powerful so they were much slower than the saw.

I dont mind ear defenders but the protos ones are not great. I'd be happy with petrol if they were as quiet and easy starting as my Echo 2511! Afaik most 2 stroke tool exhausts are a hollow chamber with a spark arrester screen. I wonder if adding some exhaust wadding would work and not screw up the mixture, or catch fire! I have a load of tabs open to look at, of cordless hedgers but not had time recently!

Ended up spending £20 at GardenHireSpares which included a few screws. No one wants the spare spike then?

Unsure whats best for this tree. Its an old one but has been topped, and flush cut pruning in the past. Thrunk starting to hollow out etc.. It has a limbs in bad shape but lots of growth on the living side, I assume the dead wood is not adding much if any strength when this far gone. Quite solid to stand on. Leave as they are, could be years before new growth weight causes an issue? Trim the dead off to leave a hollow living shell of strong recent growth? They are over a long driveway entrance and hedge so very low risk if a limb failed.

Had some problems isolating the limb. I dont often use a throw line but I wanted to set it from the ground., and the limb I ended up with was a bit lower than I wanted. A single 12oz throw bag is nowhere near enough weight for isolating, so ended up tying a water bottle to add 500g, it worked. I'll melt some lead and make a more suitable weight.. It worked great. I thought 1.5 meter length would do bigger limbs, I think this is about the limit for it. I'll be making a longer one! Its the big limbs that have the most advantage to use it. Retrieval was interesting. It came down no problem using my small throw ball but as you can see the long cord had wrapped and could have got stuck, needs to be shortened. The throw ball is a 20mm ball bearing with cheap cord for the monkey fist.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VEVOR-Hydraulic-Couplings-Excavator-Construction/dp/B0CWRTTRJ5/ Should be a suitable adaptor in that kit.