kram

To discount electrics first measure battery voltage should be above 12.4v with no load. Is there any audiable difference with engine runnjng and not running, for the pump sound?with engine running it should be getting a couple volts and a reasonable amount of extra power to the pump. If electrics are good and the ram is not visibly leaking I would suspect the pump seals, or possibly one illegal load to many has caused a pressure relief valve to stick open. A pressure gauge before the ram will tell you everything else and will be a lot cheaper than a shop. If you do anythjng youself, cleanlyness is important for hydrualics.

Yale whiplock's done. About to test on a large oak.

Thats from the advert for it. Braided core, which it is not. Perhaps I misunderstood what it was but I have only researched and attempted double braid and class 2 splices so far. I have added an adjustable prussik using Ocean 8mm cord and a DMM ring. I will add whip/lock stitching later - before they are used. Also add a sleeve to protect the splices. I have a monkey fist throw ball that fits through the large ring and catches on the others so should be good for retrieval. New kit has 6 months before it requires LOLER

I started with a length of Marlow Gecko 13mm but as I extracted the core found that its a parallel twisted strand type ! Listed as double braid and spliceable ...?! Didn't have much else suitable so ended up with 10mm Sirrius, 150cm long and I will add another ring with a prussik later and lock stich them.

Even so, when road users do not make correct decisions, should they not be held to account? Are cones and signs more visible than a brightly coloured MEWP arm? If cones and signs were used, they would have to be put in the correct place accounting for the large overhang of the MEWPs knuckle which may not be obvious before its in position. You'd need a groundie to brave traffic and shuffle cones around all day, and risk being hit by a bus, dont worry though he can wear a cone on his head. Odd choice of MEWP? The ones we have used, did not have a knuckle sticking out the back so there was no overhang opposite the direction of the arm.

That is not true about volts, you can design a system to have any power you like. Sadly Stihl seem to have too many battery systems for my liking, bad enough that each manufacturer has there own, so to have four systems is a bit if a piss take. The Stihl hedgers are listed as 140w for the lightest (probably similar to my cheap one) and 500w for the pro, still seems a bit light on power. Petrol ones put out 900w.

The article does not say that, and MEWPs do not move fast. I find it unlikely that the knuckle just popped out into the road and more likely it was already over the road, with most cars and traffic passing underneath without issue. We know the bus was moving and struck the knuckle. Drivers should know their height and be looking for obstacles above them, be it a low bridge, tree, parking barrier or MEWP knuckle...

Are you sure its not your knees? Wd40 is a water dispersant more than an oil - oil wont mix with water but WD40 will become emulsified and hold the water. After rinsing a steel petrol tank with water, a rinse with wd40 will get any remaining water out, for example. For cleaning, light oiling parts and the machining of aluminium/non ferrous I like to use DP60 which I find works much better than wd40. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00KAY9U2U For something like this I have a small bottle with a fine nozzle filled with new engine oil, a few drops of that would protect it well.

I'm looking for a decent hedge trimmer. We have a Stihl petrol long one and a combi and both seem to make as much noise as power. They do the job and reliable, but wish they were quieter. I have a cheap cordless which is slow and not suitable, its probably ok for home owners with too much time. I would like something: - with a long reach, perhaps telescopic. Our long Stihl one is often too long to cut close and I end up leaning out from the ladder, more than Id like. - that can near match the Stihls for cutting ability, yet quieter so I wont need ear defenders - find the ability to communicate is very useful for hedges and often at the expense of my ears. I like the idea of cordless as I hate pull starts when Im up a wobbly ladder! Has anyone tried the Makita offerings? as they are generally good cordless tools. Thanks

Those are interesting lists, as it states ground saw OR top handle. Training providers, HSE and insurers generally like to forbid top handle use on the ground. You will need to buy two saws if doing both courses and expecting to use your own kit. While you could possibly do the climbing course with a ground saw, you'll be making it harder for yourself as there will likely be some awkward positional cuts in the test. Expect the trainer or anyone in this industry to be an unreliable fkwit who may not bring the required equipement even if you have asked to use theirs, there are few reliable people in this industry, so expect to have a great deal of your time wasted. As an absolute beginner it would be worth you getting some experience before the course. Buy some basic climbing kit and practise assending, climbing and rope stuff. While its not the same, you could try going to your local rock climbing centre and check that your not scared shtless at heights. There are a few cheaper options that would suit a beginner who hasnt yet commited to becoming professional. Chainsaw, Lidl recently had 53cc petrol ground saws for £60, 18" bar -which you can easily swap to a 15-16" for the test. Seems decent enough and I have been using mine all week, I quite like it and already paid for itself. You can get a heavy chinese top handle for about £60. I've not tried one, tempted but I wont. One would likely get you through the test and do well for occasional use. Farmertec sell clone saws and I have one, it works well. Mine is a G372XP butbthats a bit large for a beginner. They do a G111 which is clone of a 020T climbing saw, however that too, has a bit more power than a beginner needs in a top handle. I would highly recommend an Echo CS2511-TES, as the lightest climbing saw and much easier on your arms. They are about £400 new. Harnesses, I quite like my Simarghu Fire, they were heavily discounted around £160, may be some shops that still have some stock. RadmoreTucker are a good shop for nearly everything, good prices, service and quick delivery. Marlow 3.5m cows tail makes a good rope flip line (not metal). They are cheap at £15 and its one of the most likely items you could cut. They do wire core ones for £50. HoneyBrothers cost more, a pain to deal with but good range and cheaper ropes. Liros Ignite/Leaf are the ropes Im using, again they are a cheaper option but have lasted well - no point having fancy ropes if you cut them on the first day! PTEshop are also good.

Nothing about the bus driver or bus company?!? The driver should be bannned and a big fine for them too.

How do you feed a 12" chipper with long 10-12" logs? Much above 8" will become too heavy to carry or drag without two people unless cut into short lengths. To be honest I like the ST6P as it is not deafeningly loud. When your dragging brash you dont want ear defenders until you get up close the the chipper and dont have hands free to pop them down. I cant remember what other chippers I used, but they were far louder and even with ear defenders it was too much! (I do need to buy some better ones)

Nope but my personal opinion is that barrel knotted rope bridges are a shite idea, the tails always catch on things and I have never once wanted to lengthen it after tying much shorter than standard.

I dont know a great amount about chippers and reading this had to check what we use... A Forst ST6P, 6" and 37HP.. Seems to manage everything that fits in the hole. What stands out to me is we can easily fill a transit sized tipper multiple times a day on a big removal if theres enough to chip. Obviously not chipping big logs in the ST6.. With bigger chippers are you using bigger tippers, dumping more often? Or just quicker at chipping?

Are those still available? The oregon ones I see listed are identical chinese cheapies. CBN is for hard metal, which the chome plate is, however as these wheels work, Im not convinced its required. Fineness of grit size would be more important in my opinion. Yes photos are extremely hard to capture sharpness of a chain. Might not be perfect but it is sharp. Thanks

I made up a steel plate to reduce twisting and really helps, but there is still twisting. I plan to fill the hollow pivot part of the base, with some steel sheet cut to shape and epoxy to stiffen it. There is a step on the base that I forgot about so needs a 2.5mm spacer, job for another day. This chain was badly blunted, not cutting straight, my mate was going to bin it. I could have taken more off but it will do him for now. He hit a stone yesterday with the new replacement!

Got these today. I was only expecting one but they sent 4. One is spare and the other two going to friends. The saw didnt come with screws, plain plastic holes. LS dont list it on the parts diagram. Anyone know what self tapper screws I need or have a pair spare? genuine part number? Prefer to trade the spare spike for screws or if not, a couple quid to cover postage. Cheers Mark

Unknown causes easy to narrow down. Likely carb related. Same could happen to any saw if you leave stale fuel on it ? My slightly less cheap McCulloch, also from Lidl, has a carb issue preventing the primer from sucking fuel through.. sucking air from the carb. It doesnt have enough power to really be worth the time reassembling. I will eventually.

"Ground heave is likely to occur when established trees or shrubs die or are removed, therefore removing their root systems that help absorb moisture from the soil. Without these root systems, excess water can accumulate in the ground, causing the soil to expand and heave upwards." Thats from google. You could insist that as part of the works, suitable drainage could be added to maintain ground water at suitable levels, perhaps something like a french drain (channel filled with gravel)

Thats a shame, looks like nice healthy oaks that have been their longer than the houses. Consider requesting a TPO from the council.

The poles and lines are not on your customers woodland, just that the trees overhang the boundry? So, theres no wayleave or BT stuff in the woodland? In that case BT should be paying for the trees to be cut upto the boundry. I would send BT an advance invoice of say, 10x what is reasonable, and see if they pay it before any work! If new poles are going up, check that they dont encroach on the woodland. BT are known for chancing their luck and putting them where they shouldnt.

Do you have the part numbers? Assuming they are special carb screws? If they are plain metric standard ones I would go to ebay. Any local dealer should be able to get them. For online, radmore are a good shop, try their parts page? Spare Parts - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK Garden Machinery Spare Parts Finder Use our Spare Parts Finder to look up a part for Stihl, Husqvarna and Makita garden machinery...

Had a look today, both neighbours were out so couldnt get access from their gardens. The garden to the right has nothing to damage, nice clear grass for a drop zone, but not directly under tree. Heres a photo from the road. I went up the beech to have a better look, decided not to swing across incase I push it over! I previously thought there was still some life and leaves on the birch but I was wrong, it is 100% dead. All green is from the beech. My current idea is that I want to be roped in to the beech, with the ladder under me, and possibly speed line anchored on the beech, send everything away near to the road ( not done a speed line before)

I got one of these today as I need a small saw, to stop me abusing my 020T on the ground. 18" full chisel .325" chain 53cc 2kW/2.7HP £60 Seems adequate for my use. Any bigger stuff I will use the G327XP.

Finished upgrading the pivot on mine. Much smoother with no play. I can now set it accurately and do the chain all the same length. Its been a year on the healing bench and I have lost the pivot spring that holds it up, which means I am tying it to the wall with a bungee cord. I notice another flaw that was hidden by the pivot. For anything but a light touchup, the base is flexing and changing the angle of the tooth with poor results. Holding the end down, by the swivel, prevents it. Instead I plan to bolt the base to a peice of 4mm steel sheet so it cant move.