kram

The Makita compatable choppers are more powerful and bigger capacity than the Stihl. Using them is quite simple, press the trigger and turn off whilst the trigger is held. Turn them off when ever you stop cutting. Or this can happen https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/135590-electric-finger-chopper/#findComment-2078393

Milling is hard on saws. If buying it for that specific purpose I'd be getting an 880/881 size, the new price is not much different near £2k. I dont know how the used prices compare, £1k used or more for a decent one? I've not used a 660, I have used a 500i which is near enough the same spec, not for milling, but it wants as much power as you can get. I would get a cheapy Farmertec or two. My G372XP works quite well (I didnt buy it for milling but have done a bit). £600 for a new G888 with bar, chain etc.. the G660 clones are about £300. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/204816296107 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/205154078035 I am very tempted to get a G888 myself however Im only doing occasional domestics and not very often we remove a larger tree. So it would likely take up space and rarely get any use. A ripping chain is for milling along the end grain, its slow and dusty. When I want to mill a log I use a standard chain from the side of the log, "noodling", called as it makes long noodle like chips, instead of dust. Much quicker and satisfying, easier cleanup, easier on the saw but may take more skill to get a straight cut.

An ash that I didnt want to climb! A dead stem on the left, the one behind looked ok but had no strength when moved. Big wounds on this side. I know ash can be brittle. I didnt go much past the 3 extension ladder, I swapped to the easy connifers and let the experienced guy do the ash.. if it didnt have the wounds or was a different species, I'd have no problem with it.. irrational?

"Those that can, do. Those that cant, teach" Did it go well?🙂

The last few I havent had much problem, tie to a stump anchor and pull, massage and pull a few times.

I did not. How do you imagine it works, this tenderising? I can imagine the shock of a mallet may rip fibres. A source of decent lock stiching needles would be welcome. The Samson guides say it lock stiches should be within 1/4 fid of the entry point. , within the core bury where the cover is tightest. My Yale/HB spliced rope also has the whipping very close to the entry point. YT gudes generally say, 1/3rd fid away from the eye, perhaps because its much easier outside of the core bury. How important is that?

Needle snapped whilst doing a lock stitch, leaving the metal eye fragment stuck in the rope... Cut it off and will start again.

Its hard to fail cs30-31 unless your working unsafe. Doesnt matter how bad you are at a hinge, he will be watching for chain brake and how you move with the saw. Be as slow as you like on the felling. What was wrong with the ms212?

Ryobi and some other brands make a long reach version which I think would be safer. I want one on a 4m telescopic pole stick but yet to find anything suitable. I may have to make an adaptor for the Fiskar/Magnusson poles.

Opening the throttle, will move the accelerator pump if it has one, could be that the oring seal has started to fail and letting air in, until the throttle moves it. That is a massive guess. My only experience with the problem is a newish husq carb that wouldnt purge or start as a result. At first it was intermittent, sometimes purging and starting fine. I cant see any reason why mine would have failed unless they are using substandard orings on this part, but then I'd expect it to be far more common.

It wasnt me, I have all my digits and intend to keep it that way!

Mine has been a great tool, using it all the time. Whole trees pruned with it as its quicker, better cuts than a saw.. Seen this elsewhere and thought it should be shared as a warning - turn them off when not cutting! I dont always use the chain brake on my saws but I always turn these off. He said, he was dragging brambles with it held and turned on, something caught the trigger.

Would anyone know the Alko part number for the hitch damper? Forst part number 12-10-392. Forst want quite a premium, about 4x the parts normal cost, £180 Alko 161 or 251 are £40-50. Edit: bit of a pain to get out but since its not working we leave it out until a new part arrives. A quick look for 583829 shows about £70. Odd that it appears to have different part numbers for each language, or am I reading it wrong?

A new CE version... Price has gone up! Interesting they have dropped stainless for the body, it is now made of steel with a chrome finish. Needed to pass en326? I'd like one but not at 60 quid! Notch CE Quickie – Compact, CE-Certified Connector for Arborists HONEYBROS.COM The Notch CE Quickie is a compact, CE-certified steel connector designed for arborists. Tree-friendly, lightweight, and perfect for redirects, anchors.

You should replace the gasket, they wont run properly if theres an air leak. The feeler has a narrow tip, I was going to modify a standard one but really not worth the effort! Clearances should be checked on a cold engine. Turn to TDC and check its the compression stroke with both rockers free to move.

Valve Clearance Setting Kit for Stihl FS90, FS91 Brushcutters - OEM No. 4180 007 1005 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Valve clearance setting kit Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 4180 007 1005 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: FS83, FS83T, FS90, FS90R, FS100... Mistake.. 67p!

Perhaps your problem is not with Stihl but instead, trusting your local dealer to service them, who likely think they can sell you a new machine instead of an easy fix. The Br800 is a 4 mix engine, generally they just need the valves adjusted which is a very simple, easy, 10 minute job, you need a gaset/feeler gauge set which costs all of 50p.

It does look like a significant fungus infection at the base and possibly roots. If it were me I would ask the local council tree officer to inspect, they could likely identify it. It looks significant enough I'd suggest they give permission for removal.

If its a weak machine I could weld a baffle to reduce the size of the hole by an inch. Sounds like these are running a bit near their maximum and feeding it easier work might double its life?

Great to know someone that has done a weld repair. I was also thinking reinforcement needed. You welded in situ? We dont want to strip it. I assume your Kempi is a mig? I have a Sherman 200A tig/stick welder, I'm no good at mig! Unsure to use basic 6013/er70 or the better 7018/er80, stronger but more likely to crack... Might be better if we find a pro welder to do it. We are not trying to be cheap but £5k for a replacement fitted flywheel is too much... Would you have a photo of the Jensen? If not I'll search for it when I get home. I doubt the fan blades themselves see much force but looks as though they reinforce the flywheel. When it works they are a great machine ( not that I have experience of others) and will swallow up anything that fits in the hole. Perhaps we should be more careful what we feed it?

My friend has problems with his ST6P and this thread came up. Has anyone had problems with cracks on the flywheel fan blade welds? They want to replace the flywheel but its extremely expensive. Its a 2017. The main issue, the feed roller snapped and is getting repaired. I am wondering if this can be welded in situ, grind out the cracks and re weld. I'm not a professional welder but can do TIG and stick. I am unsure about something this size however - it should likely be preheated to avoid cracking, and very difficult to heat something that size, in place, without over heating anything else. It will be a very heavy lump so no chance of us stripping it out ourselves.

£29.. may be worth a try as amazon returns are easy.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Housing-Handle-STIHL-MS440-Chainsaw/dp/B07BW3Z1QX

A cordless ratchet is a great tool, they dont have the hammer or power of an impact wrench so are not going to strip any heads. Great when theres bad access to a bolt. If the heads are covered in shite, you need to clean that, whatever tool your using.

500i? This is all my mate uses when his MS151 is too small.