Paddy1000111

Anything like POLO will kill it. A mix of MCPA/2,4D should knock it back without killing your grass

Another good excuse for instant work is that you have a couple of days next week free as a job was completed faster than you planned so you have some free days. As others have said, invest in an accountant. Mine saved me a 5 figure sum last year in tax that I could have shafted myself for by not knowing what I was doing. There are A LOT of small little claims you can make that add up. If you aren't already then I would suggest being a LTD company, not just are the finances better but you are limiting yourself for liability, if you make a massive cock up you aren't going to lose your house. Outside of that it's mainly about finance for starting. Saws, climbing gear (Lolered), Van, maybe a chipper, general tooling like pole saws etc. It's a big lump sum to start off. Then you need a couple of good mates who always need work to help clearing up etc when you need it. I'm just starting off "going it alone" back in tree work after closing my previous company doing aircraft repair since the aviation market crash due to coronavirus. It was a tough industry anyway and I was flying around the world for it but there's no work there now, tonnes of companies and I didn't want to go bankrupt trying to support something not financially viable. I can't help you on the tree business front as I'm still starting out there but business/company wise I can answer any questions you have on how to go about registering, liability, financial etc.

I'll fly out and do it for $7995... I could use a holiday? 😂

As Steve said, it's a bit of a loaded question. Have you been working for a company or freelancing?

It's the individual rotation that makes it for me. Being able to take twists out of lines and move around un-hindered it's ideal

Yea 100% Go with the Sena smh10r. It's the perfect system and installs easily. The only negative is the wiring is very thin as it's designed to be in a bike helmet. I bought some 3mm expandable braided mesh sleeving and fitted that to all the wires and used fabric harness tape on the ends of the mesh.

I've said about this in my email, just make the whole thing slightly bigger/beefier. I also suggested making the ring stainless instead of aluminium, it shouldn't wear at any fast rate at all. With the load on them the ball tries to pull through the sockets and pull the plate apart putting tension force on the rivet, I always thought rivets were designed for shear but that's a jobbie for their R&D team not some guy online 😂

Depends what you're doing in my opinion. If you want a ranger for offroad work then manual every time. If you're using it for towing on the road then the auto box saves a lot of stress/hassle!

Yep, that looks ideal. Was on two ropes today in a spreading walnut, I use two rings on the bridge which is ok until I turn and they are on the wrong sides.... It's like having a rope attached to each hip D, it's horrible when that happens!

There really aren't. Birch, Alder and Hazel are are trigger for a lot of people and their pollen is an allergenic to most poeple. Outside of that there aren't really any "Low pollen" trees. Unless you buy a female tree but trees aren't sold by gender. Trees pollenate in one of two ways, by air, where they blow very fine pollen particles around and pollenate nearby trees and by using flowers to attract bugs. Birch, Alder, Hazel etc pollenate by air and this makes them actively allergenic and will often effect people who aren't even allergic to pollen. Tulip Trees are actually classed as a monoecious tree. This means that it produces a much larger, stickier, courser pollen that doesn't float around and is spread by bugs. This is probably why you are blaming the tree for the hayfever as the pollen is big and visible. This big, heavy pollen actually puts them into the hypoallergenic tree category as the pollen doesn't sit in the air so by replacing it you could actually be in a worse off position than you were before. I really advise that you look into getting it pruned back a bit, reduce it's size, maybe even thin the crown a little and allow more light through and leave less flowering buds. I know you want a "chop it down and put X tree in it's place" answer but a non-pollen/low pollen tree doesn't exist, if it did, we wouldn't have any trees, or bees etc.

Unfortunately Pollen is produced by all trees. I'm asthmatic, I was diagnosed at a young age and carry an inhaler up the trees when I'm in them. In my case, I use my inhaler about 3 times a day sometimes, it's actually better when I'm in a tree. Doctors aren't massively clued up on asthma, I ended up seeing a specialist which is what I suggest you do with your son when he is a little older and its actually worth it. Obviously a pollen allergy is different and otherwise known as "Hayfever" which I also suffer from along with 1 in 5 other people in the UK. It's not uncommon and is something that you can grow out of but in the mean time you can reduce it with over the counter antihistamine. I found that using local honey regularly (I now have 35 hives) can reduce hayfever. I used to get red and puffy eyes along with a runny nose etc, I don't get any of the symptoms anymore and no longer use antihistamines. In my room I have a dehumidifier with a HEPA filter, the dehumidifier keeps the humidity low for the asthma and the HEPA filter reduces the pollen/dust. This is what I would suggest for you because it will have a definite, instant and reliable result. You won't be able to get rid of pollen by just chopping the tree down, especially in summer. You could get the branches cut back from the house a little but it isn't going to make much of a difference, nor is cutting the tree down and replacing it with something else. Give your kid a local raw honey and buy a hepa filter and leave the poor tree alone as it's been there a lot longer than you!

Depends on the tree. If it is DEFINATELY dying then yea, cut it down before its dead and becomes harder to fell. From what I have seen there appears to be some Ash that aren't effected by chalara. It's bad practice to just clear fell or cut them down as a routine "it's ash, bin it off" as we won't have any resistant strains.

I've been using SIP canopy W-air which I like so far. They say they are waterproof but the material isn't so my arse gets wet but everything else stays dry. I assume the waterproof membrane is mixed in with the protection and the arse is the only bit without protection. They haven't torn or ripped yet and overall seem good. They are a little bulky though but aren't all type C? I paid £165 for a new pair off ebay during a sale.

In America they're a bit more hardcore. They lick Cantharidin which is a poison off another bug to impress females. Then then ejaculate that poison into the female along with their sperm packet to make the eggs poisonous! 😂

They're fire coloured beetle larva. The Larvae look like this: The adults are much more attractive and look like this: Although they are more commonly black.

Do you have a picture? Always nice to see the trees in a "what would I do" kind of way. Honey Locust are usually pruned in late winter/early spring in their dormant period usually around March. They don't usually need much maintenance/care although you can prune them if you want a prettier tree.

Maybe the "gasket" on the decompression valve? They have a crush washer?

No problem! Just have a look at pruning and how to cut to a branch collar. This video on youtube sums it up pretty well- It's pretty simple stuff but making the proper pruning cut is a big deal on trees like cherry's and plums that don't usually take well to pruning. You can see on the stub they cut off what happens when you leave stubs. For the branches that are a V you need to look for the branch bark ridge and you make a cut that is 45 degrees to the ridge and is as long as the ridge itself like the photo below. You can see how the cut is pretty much the same length as the branch bark ridge. Hopefully it springs to life, if not there's a good amount of fire wood in it. You can pick up nice mature cherry trees for about £100. If you've ever seen apple/pear/cherry orchards they all have shorter, younger heavily pruned trees as they fruit better anyway! If it doesn't work out or you don't want to fix it yourself then there are lots of guys on here who can help depending on where you're based!

It seems that antifungal/arbrex isn't the cure-all people made it out to be. If you look at fruit tree pruning from a professional/biological standpoint it makes things worse. When you put a product like arbrex on a cut it stops the tree from naturally healing, fruit trees also like to split off into two smaller branches and it also stops that. What tends to happen in my experience is the arbrex peels off over the years and leaves deadwood exposed that water gets into and it rots so definitely avoid it. Sadly, if it is going to get infected then it will have already been infected by the door knockers tools as I can't imagine their biosecurity is any better than their pruning. I personally wouldn't do what some have suggested and take any more off. Branches are like a trees fat reserves and the more you take off the harder it is for the tree to recover after its dormant period so don't stress it any more. What I would do though is make proper pruning cuts as those 6"-8" stubs they have left look stupid. The photo below shows where I would make proper pruning cuts, you can just see them in red. There are plenty of guides online of how to make proper pruning cuts and where to make them. There's no excuse for stubs like that. I also marked that bottom branch. If you can, leave it until next year to give this tree a fighting chance, if not then cut it back. After that I would leave it until spring and see what it does. If it doesn't spring to life then it's time to cut it down and replant. Hopefully it springs to life and you will have a large amount of new growth called watershoots/epicormic growth which are caused by poor pruning and are a natural stress response. This is when you need to get out your secateurs. First you need to decide which ones you are going to keep, I suggest you keep anything horizontally growing and anything growing out towards the left as the tree is rather unbalanced as it is. If you haven't got anything growing horizontally or to the left you can gently tie the new growth and force it to grow in that direction, don't tie tight around the shoot but give it a soft loop to bend the new growth in that direction. Once you have your new future branches cut off any new shoots that have grown or the tree will quickly look messy. This is going to happen for a few years after now but the tree will eventually relax back into it's old growth routine.

I've not had an issue with Farnell before when ordering SMD components, chips, etc etc never had an issue. To me it looks like it's been returned for some reason and then it accidently made it's way back into stock. Shit happens. Tell them it arrived damaged and you're not happy. They will take it back, in the mean time order another one from them (so they cant send you the returned one back). Job done?

It was a lot further away than it looks in the GIF. Lets say everyone got, and still gets, a good laugh out of it!

I think he forgot he was messing with the brits and we all love a good **************** up. Here's a gif of me falling over and looking a twat...

As long as you bang a wedge in and know that it can sit back on the bar (which you obviously do) then it's perfect for you like you say. Only reason I said about it is I can imaging the OP cutting the back out and the tree sitting back on the bar and having the chainsaw stuck in the tree along with a tree that won't fall 😂.

To be fair, I didn't know what a gob was until a few years back. I always knew it as a face cut/felling cut/wedge. Americanisms and all that. In terms of weight there are log charts available. it's going to be roughly 35lbs per cubic foot. 6'x1' section would be about 480lbs. I don't want to be a dick but it doesn't sound like you have a lot of experience with big timber. I wouldn't suggest you start making bore cuts that need to lign up etc for dog tooth cuts. It's very easy, especially on a hill to bore in and come out lower than your hinge which will 99.99% of the time lead to a barber chair. That being said you probably want to do it yourself anyway. If you have a chainsaw and a bar long enough just make the cuts and do a basic fell. If I am right the tree was leaning towards the house before you took the weight out the back? A dog tooth cut isn't for back leaners, its for forward leaners and it gives you more control instead of the tree just going. It sounds like between it's back lean and you adding weight to the front it is relatively ballanced. A danish pie would be the best of both worlds but considering you have tonnes of wood to play with you have tonnes of room to put wedges in the back to stop it falling the wrong way. Put your face cut in, I would suggest a humboldt, take your time and make sure its a very clean face. Then start making your back cut. Try to make sure that it is level or up to 3" above the horizontal line of the face cut or it can Barber chair, whatever you do don't cut below the horizontal line of the face cut. Once you have cut in say 10-12" then put a load of wedges in the back so it can't sit back. Worst thing it can do is sit back and rip off the hinge, that's the only way it can hit the house. keep cutting until you have a nice size hinge (around 6-7" as it should be 10% of overall timber diameter) then just pummel wedges in.

This is the same thought process I went through with steel V aluminium. Less likely to end up with micro-cracks/stress fracture in steel too. At the end of the day you're strapping it to a tree not carrying it in the tree with you, the small weight difference would be negligible and doesn't really cover the higher price of ally either. I've been thinking about making up a CAD model for the base. I need to learn to use Fusion 360 first. I learnt on the old autodesk stuff years back. Would be good if I could run a stress simulation on it. I've been thinking about the cost of creating a set of bases, getting them tested and selling a "base only" grcs which people can do what they want with.