Paddy1000111

Doesn't mean they didn't proper break something. I've known engines throw a rod and go full diesel runaway on that test. Maybe it failed origionally and the garage gave it a good blast?

Ahhh the old "snap the cambelt" MOT test where they rev the tits off it. If he pottles around then it probably had oil in the intercooler that it's sucked up or its finally now split a boost pipe. Black smoke is too much fuel/not enough air. Popped pipe/buggered injector is likely. The 2.2 is a cambelt iirc? The MOT rev the bolocks off it test had caused some engines with a shite cam belt to skip a tooth.

U500 279HP FULL AGRICULTURAL SPEC | Atkinson Vos WWW.UNIMOGS.CO.UK LWB U500 with hydraulic rear PTO. 279HP. Very well equipped Unimog with: - X4 hydraulics - Additional hydraulic services for hook loader trailer etc. - Working group gears - Front PTO... Even this unimog has a hydraulic rear PTO? *Edit* Just realised that it actually means that it has hydraulic outputs not a hydraulic PTO. On a side note, anyone ever fitted an engine driven hydraulic pump with outputs on a sprinter/transit and had a trailer with a mini hi-ab on it? You could bin off the electric hyd pump for the tipper back etc to get rid of the excess weight and then have a 3.5t trailer that could load up chunks or even builders bags of logs?

I've always considered a "Topper" to be one with a bit more grunt like the 200/201 etc, capable of making a large topping cut and handling bigger take down stuff (even though we don't top anymore bla bla bla) so I think you're right. Lots of things in life that we still have ancient names for as a hint to the past. I would do as you say and invest the money to spruce them up. Buy some new plastics as they are pennies from L&S, especially if you have a trade account. Maybe have the crankcase halves re-powder coated. I degreased mine and then dunked them in industrial paint stripper for 24h and all the old paint fell off. I filled any big dents with "Big Boy Powder coatable Metal Filler" from toolstation of all places and then masked up the seal faces, bearing journal myself with polyimide tape which is used for soldering/smd work which worked perfectly. The guy at the powdercoaters charged me £15 as I did all the prep work myself. If you do go down the re-painting route then make sure to take out the plastic block that's mounted inside the crankcase half. It's held in with one of those star style spring clips. Break the clip out with an old screwdriver and replace it with an off the shelf one. You don't need to go to the lengths I did but it is like a new saw as opposed to an old one that I kept repairing, it makes me feel differently about it as it's no longer an old saw that needs fixing all the time but a "new" saw that has the occasional hiccup

Not saying you wouldn't need a heater but as @openspaceman said, the dehumidifier heats the room. I've put it in one of the bathrooms to dry bedsheets as the weather is awful and it was really humid. That room was really warm and dry with no heater. Whole bedsheet set dried in a few hours! I'd suggest that if you have a room in mind then buy the best dehumidifier you can and try it. If everything is dry by the morning then call it a day, if it isn't dry then look at heating. That dehumidifier I linked I can highly recommend though, I've had it for 2 years of continuous use and it's never missed a beat.

It sounds like parts 7/8/9 are incorrectly assembled? If you pull the filter out and take it off. Do you feel suction on the hose when you pump the bulb? Just thinking, part 7 could be cracked/split and that would give you the same issue. if you take off 8/9 do you get vacuum on one of them when the bulb is pumped?

If you want fast drying you need a dehumidifier. If you put wet stuff in a hot box the air gets humid and nothing dries. I put my stuff in a small room with one of these. It drops the room humidity to about 50-60% and things dry very quick. The tank is usually full pretty fast! electriQ 20 litre Low Energy Anti-Bacterial Dehumidifier for 2 to 5 bed houses WHICH Best Buy CD20LE | Appliances Direct WWW.APPLIANCESDIRECT.CO.UK Buy electriQ 20 litre Low Energy Anti-Bacterial Dehumidifier for 2 to 5 bed houses WHICH Best Buy CD20LE from Appliances Direct - the UK's leading online appliance specialist

It would be good if manufacturers updated their batteries. The motor tech doesn't really change so much but the battery chemistry seems to have a breakthrough weekly. Would be good if manufacturers came out with battery upgrades. Maybe even set up their kit so that you could update the firmware and get more performance out of a newer battery

Sadly it doesn't really work like that. Agricultural vehicles that run red derv and have agri road tax are only meant to be on the road between fields etc. They aren't for driving 30 miles to cut down a tree. I wanted an agri quad but it would be for pleasure/commuting and I couldn't ever say I was going between fields

I'm tuned in. Not a hedgelayer but I fancy giving it a crack on one of my hedges!

100% agree. Plus the additional stress on the truck. I was just saying that if you were going to PTO a 4x4 a hyd pump is the only way I could see doing it. Like you say it would need a hand throttle or a high idle switch fitted which would be easy enough to set up for a particular RPM. Either way, none of this is financially viable. I assume the OP has seen that PTO chippers are 1/3 of the price of a trailer and wanted to work with it?

This is the sort of thing I was on about. No idea if you could have enough power. That's another issue with the PTO drive from a 4x4 is having the right RPM "Hydraulic motor 80,8 cc/rev p.t.o. male shaft 1 3/8" WWW.FLOWFITONLINE.COM "Hydraulic motor 80,8 cc/rev p.t.o. male shaft 1 3/8 from our range of FFPMS/EPMS Motors, part of our wide collection of Hydraulic Motors."

Funnily enough the one I rebuild is around 18 I think. I got it in an absolute state but she's a beaut now. I took it to pieces as far as it would go, ultrasonically cleaned each piece, replaced the plastic stuff as it's cheap and you wouldn't even know that it's an old saw!

Guess it wasn't broken then. It was infuriating though. You would pull it, it would fire over and then stall and take 3-4 (sometimes more) pulls to get going again. That was with the saw warm and in the I position Out of interest how old are your 201T's? I noticed still do a mtronic update kit for them for ~£60 with a new carb, flywheel and ignition module. Maybe this fixes it and comes as standard on new ones

From my experience using both the 200T and 201TCM side by side I much prefer my 200T. It seems to have more grunt, and the 201TCM occasionally cut out in the tree when starting/took more pulls but you can't really compare a "broken" saw to a working one I guess. I don't actually know if it was broken but the guy who lent it to me said "It does that every now and again" like it was normal? I know that my 200T has more grunt and feels more capable. Unless your 200T is completely shafted, maybe it's time to look at rebuilding it? I rebuilt mine from a scrap saw, even got the crankcase re-powder coated but you can also just buy new crankcase halves for about £75 each. I'm sure there are guys on here that would do it for you if you wanted... I can't give you a proper comparison on the electric saws as I haven't had them side by side but I have one of the electric Makita ones. I like it but the Stihls are lighter and if I was buying an electric saw from scratch I would go for a Stihl/husky. The Makita one works well but because the battery packs are heavy and the tools are rather clunky they feel like they are more designed for a roofer than tree work.

Defenders have the option for a hydraulic pump on the transfer box. Can't you do something similar on the Toyota? Having a hydraulic pump and a hydraulic motor seems less aggressive on the engine and easier to fit? Is there a hydraulic pump with a PTO?. If you wack something big in at least you will have some cushioning for the engine/gearbox with a hydraulic system with an overpressure valve etc than running it on a PTO. Tbh, a PTO sounds like a good way to start ruining dual mass flywheels and bearings Is it a cable or fly by wire throttle? You're also going to have to look at a manual throttle/high idle switch

Back in aviation there was a girl who was about 25 working behind the tool counter. We used to get a new set of 18yo apprentices each year and would regularly send them for tools like a "Donkeys Dick" a "Three way" a "Quickie" a "Blowie" etc... Funny thing was she knew the exact tool as that was what we nicknamed them but the apprentices thought they were getting set up and looked red faced and nervous before they were even served 😂 The blowie was the best because she would look them dead in the eye and say "A long one or a short one" 🤣

And if you have 2 anchors in separate parts of the tree (which I do a lot now as it helps move around) then they would still separate and it would be like having an anchor rope on each hip D

I think there was a post about this recently saying that one rope bridge is fine. If it wasn't the only harness to be okay would be the treemotion evo. At the end of the day there's always going to be one point of failure in a system somewhere unless we start wearing 2 harnesses 😂 All this stuff stems from the industrial aerial access stuff for windows and wind turbines. Their tie ins are onto one hoop on their harness anyway. The most likely point of failure for us is, like you say, the anchor, followed by the rope, followed by your prussik (Some people leave their prussik/e2e tied on all the time and never inspect it 😣). Unless you cut your rope bridge it's unlikely to fail, apart from getting very minorly glazed over time it's not a "high wear" item as such. The camp gyro is at the moment, the only true multi-point swivel. Loads of other companies have swivels etc but none of them are fully independent or you end up connecting loads of them together. The only way they could improve the gyro for me is to make one of the rings bigger and fatter so you can fit both rope bridges through it and have have a larger bend radius for the rope bridge. Apart from that it's perfect!

Yea 100% but if you are running completely parallel then the carabiners will touch. They won't however get caught up on each other and apply force. I run the same length prussik on both and usually only run a rope wrench on one of them as I consider one the backup. It places them really close together so going down is always a single handed jobbie. I found having 2 lines on two separate bridges meant I always had to use 2 hands or see-saw between each one as I couldn't activate both prussiks with one hand. They come with 3 silicone grommets to prevent carabiner damage and the stainless ring without the silicone is perfect on the rope bridge. If you find they are rubbing then because they rotate independently of each other you can twist the carab gates in opposing directions if you're worried about it. I haven't had an issue at all. I was using a ring before and the carabiners were always in the wrong orientation or a rope was twisted or something. With a Gryo, no matter what you do or where you go nothing gets twisted

I use this for my twin rope. It's a camp gyro. I have a Treemotion Evo but I found if you have an anchor tied into a ring on each rope bridge then they can have a habit of pulling apart if you have a bit of distance between your two anchors. So you can't rotate or roll on the rope bridge. I have a ring on the second bridge which I sometimes use to create a third anchor with my positional strop on some awkward cuts or when I need to move in from a branch and don't want to pendulum slam into the trunk. The rope bridge and camp gyro is part of my daily kit inspection where I anally check them. The camp gyro is all stainless steel and it's a hardy bit of kit. The way that I see it the only way that I will fall is if I cut my rope bridge with a chainsaw. Even then I would be tied in with a positional strop. If I manage to cut both the rope bridge and the positional strop in one go like that then I must be doing something dumb and I deserve to fall out the tree...

£600 sounds about right. That's what I pay, LTD, all my filing, self assessment, PAYE stuff, etc etc. I don't have to do anything but send in my receipts and bank statements

Anyone got any photos of what broke? A friend of mine just bought one with the biggest power head and I was going to do the same as it means I could save carrying tonnes of gear. I'm reluctant to now...

I see what you mean. I guess it means a lot less work for them at the end of the day. You basically do your taxes and they press the submit button ?

With the rules that came in around using digital accounting if you're VAT registered most accountants use Quickbooks or Xero now as you can't really use paper methods anymore.