Paddy1000111

That's true, it does mean that you should have the common sense and knowhow to do a risk assessment. You should also be able to put a tree in the right direction, or have the ability to know "that tree is too big to fell, i'll climb and disassemble instead". It should also mean that you are a registered company and you have insurance. It should also mean you have the appropriate PPE and the appropriate measures in place too. I know plenty of guys who do chainsaw work with no certificates and can fell a tree and climb better than the ticketed guys though. I would also say that someone who is a "two week wonder" can be safer than someone who's been doing it for 20 years. They don't usually have the sun shining out their arse and know when things are too much for them. Saw it all the time in the aircraft industry, new lad sticking to the rules, gets scared and not afraid to ask for help and will actively know when something is too much for them. Older boy who's "top of their game" and has the sun shining out their arse and knows everything about everything. Goes to the aircraft and "does what he usually does" sticking the power on. The hydraulics come on as the electric pump was left on after the night shift did a test and nearly cut a lads arm off. Happens all the time, old boy knows best "I've been doing it the same way all my life", it's caused a fair few commercial aircraft crashes. Same thing applies to the tree industry. Young lad straight out of training. Follows the "plan" to the letter, does all the risk assessments, does all the inspections, thoroughly inspects his kit, works carefully, takes small cuts and is above all safe. He asks the tenants of the house to not go in the kitchen as it's in the fall zone when he's felling and he wants to be safe "just in case". Older guy who knows it all, doesn't check his kit and climbs on a damaged rope or maybe fells a tree in high winds with no guideline- "I've done this all before" but he didn't notice the V in the top that's caused the trunk to rot out in the centre. The tiny bit of holding wood gives out in a gust. Betty is in her kitchen, watching him work with a cuppa, next thing she knows she's under a tonne of rubble as an old oak comes through her flat roof. This whole situation can be the complete reverse though. Over eager young lad vs calm professional. It's all a personality thing.

I do wonder about the rules with PPE. It should apply to private individuals too. Some people forget how hardcore HSE is. There was a story a while back about a farmer who fell off a roof of one of his barns and broke a leg. When he was in hospital he was charged for failing to follow correct procedures by HSE. His farm was a registered business and he was at work, it didn't matter that he worked for himself, they still sued him! I'm not sure. This was going back 2 years and I haven't really seen the farmer since. I'll ask when I'm back shooting again after this lockdown. I know it was a sensitive subject for a fair while though. The guy was Polish, turned up in a Vauxhall Corsa and disappeared just as fast as he arrived. Well that's true but you don't see someone inside their house putting new wiring in. Also it may stop a guy who's watched too much Ax men or Swamp loggers thinking "I'll give that a go, doesn't look hard". Also, whilst you don't see someone fitting their own boiler or putting in a new circuit you do see someone in their back garden with a 30ft ash tree weeble wobbling as they get their wife and kids to pull it over with some clothesline they've tied 6ft up the tree.

I've posted up about the worst one I've seen. Unqualified guy, cheapo chainsaw, rips 11kv lines off the post including the transformer. Oil ends up in the stream below and there was a £250,000 environmental and repairs charge. Sadly you can't stop them, I mean that guy who ripped the powerlines down was working for money illegally but if it was the farmer who did it then it is what it is. If they felled the tree into the road and killed someone then they would be liable but I agree it shouldn't happen in the first place. It annoys me too, I've spent thousands in training and equipment and someone is allowed to go and spend £100 on a saw and "give it a go". It's not allowed with electrical work or gas work so why should it be allowed with trees. They should have a rule that you can't cut down a tree over say 16ft in a domestic/built up/public area without qualifications or insurance.

Are we all going to have to chip in for water cooling and a RAM upgrade too? ?

It's all our posts saying it's crashing ?

This is what I face. You probably know but maybe it helps. I closed the adult pages first ?

I have occasional issues with the page not loading or loading in base format, not looking pretty. I'll screen grab it next time it happens.

That would stand out although I'm not sure how I feel about carrying around the additional weight of two slashcut slabs on the back of the truck ??

I suppose so. A nice logo on the back tipper with pre-cut vinyl so you can see the aluminium through it and then some minor info else where looks smart to me!

I would 100% go for the 462. The 362 is too close to a 261 and the 500i is too close to a 661... 462 is the perfect middle ground!

It's pennies and makes a big difference. I'm making a design for the tipper truck at the moment. A giant area of advertisement missed there!

Awaiting the decals for my car as well as the truck as we speak. No point driving that around for general duties in the car and not advertising!

Darnit, Looks like I'll have to find a company like that local to me then! Let the googling begin ? I know 95% of people will bin it but that 5% helps get the ball rolling! I'm gutted that with these restrictions I haven't been shooting this year. I usually beat for local shoots and a load of them own gardening companies and don't do chainsaw work so I could be in for a good deal there!

Perfect. I noticed theres a few "surveyors" around but having some review is perfect. If you want you could PM me your name or your company name (or post it here) and I will say you sent me. May give you a little bit off in the future

Thanks! Is this your company or one you use?

In regards to putting weight on the line I usually do the first brummel tuck, tie one end on a rafter and pull down the other end either with my foot in a loop or with a weight so it cinches on the eye and then I put a marlin spike or a couple of large needles through the first brummel just to pin it in position before doing the next two. The cinching force is removed when the needle is taken out but it just helps hold everything in place so the brummel is tight to the ring. The label and heat shrink is just a Brother label printer (PTE550) with wide tape. The other bit is just clear heat shrink that's adhesive lined. one piece put on, labels attached and then another piece that's 1" shorter put over the top. Same stuff they use for the labels at honey brothers. The butt is basically 3 inches of the rope back fed into itself so it gives a clean end. the other 5 inches or so is just regular buried end. Both the back fed end and burried end are just flush cut with no taper and they both meet under the heat shrink so there's no soft spot in the tail as it's under the heat shrink. Before I put the heat shrink sleeves on I lock stitch it to stop either end pulling out and then I put on the whipping. The whipping is nothing special, just a standard whip that you would usually do on 3 strand. Wrap it around a load of times so it's tight and then sew the end over multiple times to give that drillbit/corkscrew effect. AFAIK the burried section isn't really giving any true support. If all your brummels have given out then the ropes snapped anyway. 2 ft of burried tail isn't going to save you. I run 14-16 rope through it. No need to run any bigger. I do most things with 14 as unless you're chunking down massive sections I just take smaller cuts. The 15.9mm T-rex is rated to 5900 Dan when spliced so roughly 6000kg. Rigging safety factor is usually 11x so 545kg force. My 14mm sirius bullrope is 5302kg so 482kg by the time you safety factor it. Now when you have a rigging rope going through an eye the force on the eye is double the weight of what's on one end of the rope as you have say 100kg of wood on one end and then 100kg of groundie on the other supporting it so the weak link now is the T-rex which can only now handle 272kg of wood. No groundie on earth is going to be able to support 272kg of wood so you need a basal anchor of some sort. I use a flying capstan usually. The flying capstan has a safe working load limit of 10kn which is 100kg by the time you safety factor in for the negative rigging. So Really, the biggest piece I could safely chunk down in negative rigging without fear of going over the safe working load limits of my gear is 100kg. Why have a rope larger than 14mm? I know what you mean about removing some of the stretch but we are only weak and frail humans. Us pulling the line tight with 10-20kg of force isn't going to remove any real amount of the dynamic absorption of the rope. If it did, it's no good for rigging ?. The force we are talking about being on the rope in the relaxed position with all pins/tape or whatever removed is under a kg. In my mind having everything appropriately tight stops chafing of the splices as things move about on/off load

MS200T MS261 MS661

Hi everyone, I've had some recent enquiries for tree inspection work. I'm not an approved inspector so I am looking for someone to take on any inspection work? I'm not looking for any cut or subcontract, just someone who I can forward to the client as a BS standard inspector? Thanks, Patric

Makes a fair old difference though. You think about the weight in a flywheel with the magneto inserts plus the weight of a large pro-saw clutch. The magneto inserts and the clutch pads all being on the outside of the "wheel" mean more mass effect too. All the old steam engines had massive flywheels so they could put more weight on the outside of the wheel as they could have less weight on the wheel but more torque! You could have a light weight crank and add a little weight to the outside of flywheel to give a lighter saw but keep the flywheel torque factor.

Doesn't that mean you need to weigh it with the flywheel and clutch as a rotating mass? If you have a 700g crank and a 500g flywheel then you're going to be in the same boat as a 800g crank with a 400g flywheel?

I went for some training recently so I was up to date with the most recent climbing rules. It all changed again a few weeks back or so I was told. Originally it had to be 2 ropes always but you can now (AFAIK) drop to one rope assuming you're static on a branch or something so you can be on one rope whilst tying in your other anchor for example. Originally you would have had to have anchor 1 plus your positional strop whilst changing your second anchor. The NPTC assessment still requires you to be on two ropes all the time though so there are some massive inconsistencies. Be interesting to see what's said about the connection to harness thing. I assume they mean two connections to a closed harness connection i.e. two carabiners on a rope bridge ring is okay but using two ropes onto one carabiner on the harness would be a no as it's an open connection (although why you would do this is beyond me anyway). I use a camp gyro as my rope bridge connection which is a tip I got from the instructor. Technically a closed system and makes the two rope thing not a big deal as everything rotates independently to eachother. Two ropes onto a single ring is a nightmare. If they say it needs to be two completely independent systems then the only harness on the market that offers that AFAIK is the Treemotion Evo. Part of the reason I changed to one is the treehog doesn't allow for leg D attachment so your positional strop isn't a tie in as its on the waist D

Wouldn't surprise me if they were interchangable. Why make all new cad files, moulds, bend guides etc etc for a saw that has pretty much the same form factor as a 462 I just looked at side by side photos of the 462 and 500I for a start the mount screws on them on the cutting side are different locations

Yea 100%. I don't mind spending a lot on an initial business boost though. I appreciate that probably 75%-90% will go in the bin but I could spend £99 a month on "Advertising" online that most people ignore or don't even look at. I feel like I could spend the money paying a few younger people in my area to do a drop route seeing as most of them post up on local facebook pages looking for work anyway. In saying that, a single post on the local facebook pages and a snippet in the local magazines would be free and reach a lot of people anyway. I'm just trying to find a way to get out there and have that initial boost. I would put up posters but with less and less people being out and about it targets fewer people anyway!

I've had a bit of a look at Bark. Although I registered for tree surgery/removal all the jobs seem to be grass mowing and landscaping apart from one tree between 6-13ft... They seem a bit like My builder. I was working with some builders a fair few years back and they were using that. They spent a load of cash bidding for jobs usually to be outbid by someone who has no idea what they're doing. Most of them just seem to say "I'm researching" which reads "I'm wasting time (and your money)" to me!

Has anyone contacted LS Engineers yet? They seem to have wrap arounds for pretty much all the other models?