Paddy1000111

Check the flywheel, check the spark plug (they can fail and lose compression) otherwise you've toasted a cylinder and you need to pull the jug

Definitely don't tag line in the opposite direction to the felling cut. No point in that at all. The only reason I suggested it is you said it had a back lean then a dog-leg vertically which in my mind says it's going to want to sit back and be a pain in the arse to fell. Hi-lift wedges or just a shit load of normal ones are your friend. I've had a similar tree, although a quite a bit smaller that did the same, lean back and not want to fall. House behind and along the left, greenhouse on the right. Luckily I put a line to the top as a fail safe just in case it wanted to go backwards it couldn't. I ran out of wedges and it was teetering on the edge of going, my weight on the line with the leverage of it being at the top of the tree was enough to pull it over. I was just thinking if you had it teetering you could always winch it but if you have nowhere to anchor to below (even though a small fir will do) then you can't. In which case I would go the route of what others suggested, stick a couple of hoofin' great ratchet straps tight around it (I would do that whatever you do) to reduce the chances and/or consequences of a barber chair and then humboldt gob with a regular felling cut in from the back. At 6ft it's not like you need a danish pie/split level/dogtooth (even though you don't dogtooth a backleaner) to give you room to get a wedge in. If you're really worried about doing it then just spike up and take it down bit by bit. Take you longer but not as long as rebuilding the house or your friendship with the owner 😂

Seems like the way to go! Only thing is with 7075 is it doesn't weld so depending how you work it, that might not be ideal.

So, it looks like they are removing ash and dangerous trees near the footpaths? More people walk through, more people donate, more woodland gets purchased? He's upset because they are doing the right thing? got it... 🤔

Well ignore my shite photoshopping here but this is what my "ideal" gyro would look like. One stainless ring that's 12mm thick and 40mm wide making it the same dimensions as the stock treemotion ring. This would allow it to be used with both rope bridges, sewn eye bridges or even the tape style rope bridge. It would also allow a carabiner to be clipped into the lower ring for a 3rd anchor when pruning or making an awkward cut. Then beef up the other eyes making them a bit thicker as they are very thin at the moment and it places stress on carabs etc.

Interesting, I find it a little bit small. I get why they did it but I would like something larger with a higher rating. It's size also means that getting everything together can be quite compact. Strength wise it's rated to 26kn which means you could put a winch on the front of a range rover and lift it up a tree on the gyro. I climb on drenaline (slaiced) which is only rated to 16.5kn. My anchor would probably give out before the gyro did. I get what you mean though, being safe and feeling safe are two different things.

Personally if it was me I would put a tag line on it anyway pretty much at the top. 125' is a LOT of leverage, it might be a heavy tree but its "balanced" when it's upright, if you have issues wedging it over etc etc it just gives you peace of mind/the ability to have a backup plan. That first photo, where is the house in relation to the tree? It looks like you have a pretty large clear area on the left of the base (downhill bit) for a humboldt?

Lots of views and no replies. Even if you aren't a current gyro user what do you want to see for a bridge swivel device for 2 rope working? I've badly photoshopped a gyro with one of the rings being the size of the stock rope bridge ring that comes on a Treemotion. In my mind that allows me to put a 3rd anchor out and attach it into the gyro on the rope bridge which would allow me to roll in the harness. That's my ideal, what's yours?

In a post about two rope working the other day I was discussing the camp gyro. Personally it has become my favourite climbing accessory. When talking about the pros and cons the other day the bend radius on the rings being small and the fact you can't pass both rope bridges on a teufelberger evo through the one ring was bought up as it's current pitfalls. I emailed Camp saying how I have found it in the field and asked them to pass it on to the design team if they made a mk2. Well, I received an email back from the designer of the Gyro saying that a mk2 is currently being designed and the bend radius is being improved as it's been bought up in the past. They're asking for a bit more info, some pictures of it in use and if there was anything else they should bare in mind. They're working out what size ring to use, what to make it from (stainless or ally) or maybe the use of a pulley instead (although this stops the ability of both rope bridges being passed through) If you have anything you would change about the Gyro then post it up here and I'll add it to the email!

From my time in aviation a 7075 T6 would be ideal. A little lower shear strength than mild steel (331 vs 400mpa) but a much higher tensile yield (503 vs 370mpa). Easier to machine too if you draw up a design you could have someone mill something sexy. I was tempted to machine up a plate on my mill and then get it anodized but I felt like a steel plate would last longer. Not sure why though, Harkens rigging plate is ally!

Possibly? It's all the same stuff though, just 2 different methods AFAIK. I've not seen things go black from hot dip? My Flying capstan is hot dipped and rope blackening isn't an issue I have had. I know that you get 5x more protection from hot dipping though, even if electro-plating is shinier. Could always make it out of stainless like a 304L or a 316L and just make it shiny

I was 50/50 between the two. I think hot dipping would be better long term but powdercoat would be more flashy. Nothing worse than having powdercoat starting to peel off when you chip/ding it and the rust starts!

I just looked and you can buy a GRCS fairlead pigtail for the fair price of, wait for it, £192.... 😂 Why can I buy 3-4 genuine full cylinder and piston kits for a chainsaw for the same price as some 8mm rod bent into a pigtail and powder coated?!

I like the van! How have you found the Iveco? I'm umm-ing and ahh-ing between one of those, a sprinter or a transit. I used to drive it's older version and it was hardy but it also drove like an old bus too. It looks darn smart in black too!

And pictures! Pictures make everything better

I had the same 2 days ago about car tax and usually pay no attention to it but I noticed it had an email from a different address CC'd onto it about a MRI scan at a clinic in Australia with all the patient info, name address, email etc. I emailed the company saying they had a security issue. Knowing my luck my computer will download some sort of super-mega-turbo porn but worse things have happened...

What I mean is, you said you're making better fairleads? What are you changing about them?

Your best option is to ask some local biomass companies if they take clean wood chip. Someone on here may know of the company but I know some of them will actually send a lorry down, you will have to have enough to fill an artic or it's not worth their time though. You also need to factor in the cost of a hammer type chipper as the normal rotary blade chipper won't handle any nails etc that may be in the mix. Something like the Timberwolf TW S426TDHB

Holyyyy.... The Stihl is 2.5 and I don't think it has av?!

I just assumed the OP wasn't in this for profit and just wanted a chainsaw to cut firewood 🤷🏼‍♂️

If you run it without a chain on, with it tilted down does oil fill the groove in the bar? Does the hole on the bar align with the oiler port?

Also the knock off 200t iso mounts are garbage. I got some knock-off ones as the genuine ones weren't in stock. The knock off mounts had rubber like a car tyre, the genuine ones were almost silicone they were so soft. It suprises me that with all the mods and following that the 200t has, no company has made an upgrade mount kit for them. Interestingly the ms194tcm is worse than a ms200t for vibration and the 151 is worse again at 4.9 😳

Good effort! With everything else going on at the moment I haven't even started on my project 😂. What are you planning with your fairleads?

I guess it also comes down to how you sharpen your chains too. I was thinking that because the vibration spec is pretty much the same it may have been a change in ergonomics/ballance that made the difference!

Interesting how many people are saying about vibration. The 200t is rated at 3.4/3.8. The 201t is rated 3.1/3.5 The husky is rated 3.1/3.2. There's not really much between them and it puts them all in the 3-4 hour of use before they are a medium risk. Interestingly the msa161t is rated at 2.5