Paddy1000111

I did see a nice daily actually! Similar price to the transit too

If husqvarna sell a 12v charger you're better off with that. You will end up spending around 200-400 on a decent inverter that won't set on fire or destroy the charger plus the wiring as it won't be a cigarette plug. For ease of use, get the 12v

Thanks for the replies. Bang for buck it honestly looks like I am better off just going with the transit. The tipper ducatos seem few and far between and the only ones I can find are new for ~£20K+vat I'm genuinely surprised how little tipper vans depreciate....

Tbf I'm looking second hand for now as I only want something for a year or two before maybe looking at a 7.5t as things go! I used to drive a relay horse box but not had any long term experience with a heavy load. They're comfortable but the rear axle looks weak!

Interesting. Seen on here a load of times that the single wheel axle transits are better as they have more load ability?

As some of you guys will have seen I have been planning to get a new van from March. I've been eyeing up ford transits but the prices are sky high and none of them seem to be what I really want (either double cab or tool cab back so I don't have to rip the whole back off and start again). I've noticed a few citroen relay tippers with either crew cab or toolcab back with super low mileage (25k) for about 15-16k plus vat. Anyone using a citroen? Any feedback?

Inside something maybe when it was younger?

I had the same with a land rover. You could go round a corner and all the water would run to one side and dump on you! I used this stuff, works a treat!: 5 x 1m Self Adhesive Thermal Acoustic Foam Insulation caravan camper vans WWW.EBAY.CO.UK CAMPER THERM FOAM INSULATION SELF ADHESIVE BACKING. 1 m Wide CAMPER THERM foam insulation with Self Adhesive Backing. Self adhesive backing ensures a...

If anything this thread is making me realise that I have had very good rates from guys in the past and also undepriced myself when I have worked for others haha!

I've left mine in the back of the car on nights below -5 (Stihl ms261c-m) and not had any issues in the morning starts in 4 pulls every time from ice cold. I do spray the connectors and most of the saw etc with ACF-50 and I put Dow-Corning DC4 in the spark plug boot every 6 months or even 3 months if it's getting wet. I haven't ever had an issue.

Thanks for all the input so far, massively helpful! Some more input on climber prices would be ideal too! 👍

trees their natural history 2nd edition is good, its a readable book about trees. Some of them can be really dry and factual and if you're anything like me you lose interest after an hour or so!

I know this has been discussed a few times and I've read through all those threads but there's nothing too recent or applicable to me because of location. Long story short I'm trying to create a better business plan and factor in costs etc and manpower seems to be the biggest variable. What are you guys paying per day for a decent freelance groundie and a decent climber. I've had guys help me for £80pd who were great and ones who were £160pd and rubbish so I get that it's variable hence why I was wondering what you would be happy to pay for someone who's prompt, works hard, has their own kit and tickets etc. Let's say a groundie who has all the kit, experience rigging, all the climbing courses for rescue etc and a climber who's all of the above and works at a good speed? Obviously good workers who aren't on their phone and can converse with clients etc etc. I'm in the south west so some input from guys closer would be good too as I know the pay varies a lot with geographic location!

100%, go for a clause for time lost through disruption even if it's to recoup your financial loss. This is (by the sounds of things) their site/land that should be secure. You aren't there to fend off the cannibals at their gate, nor should you be expected to incur a financial loss for their F***housery

didn't think of that, broken clutch spring maybe too, clutch engaging with the chain brake on!

Have you taken off the pull start mechanism and turned the flywheel by hand to check it's definitely the engine? If there's an issue with the pull start where under load it's seizing up? that could give a similar feel?

Id suggest never telling them, they won't know you've used it on an inverter. I would suggest contacting some companies that produce the inverters and getting their advice though. A crappy pure sine might be worse than a good mod sine?

Well you aren't really pushing it, you haven't got it running in the Arizona heat whilst charging an Ar3000 battery pack. The charger is just a transformer/rectifier with a little chip to control amperage. If you're that worried about it then get a pure sine, it will be better. You just have to question if the money spent on a pure sine wave inverter, a split charge, a decent deep cycle battery etc would be better spent on 2/3 more batteries

I'm surprised that if he's just tidying up his own land that it's not more financially viable to just rent one for an occasional weekend. Weekend rates are pennies, he would have to have use for one for a good amount of time to make it worth while!

I quite like my simarghu I bought the 30 but I wish I got the 20. 30cm is too much and it sits way above the VT

Yea it would be more efficient on a pure sine wave but ~£200 more efficient? Unlikely... I would say that compared to some of the skyrc and turnigy chargers used in the model world where you can set ramp rates, cycles and a whole manner of things the stihl charger, whilst containing a microchip which can sense voltage/temp and charge rates it's still a relatively dumb charger and is on the same level as the Makita chargers which can take a fair amount of abuse and won't be effected by a slightly distorted wave. That being said, you will get more efficiency out of a pure sine but it's debatable if it's worth the cost. The battery won't see any difference on its end anyway

Surely for a charger pure sine wave is a little excessive? They aren't super intelligent, they just control charging based on temperature and pack balance. If it was going to be running tv's, induction motors, amplifiers etc i.e. things that would be sensitive to noise I would say need pure sine wave but a charger that converts AC to DC internally and not overly efficiently won't see much of an improvement with a pure sine wave. Personally I would go with a modified sine wave converter as you haven't got to worry about hum or efficiency with a basic charger like this (compared to an amplifier or PC). Rated wattage is 0.6kw so a 800-1000w modified sine wave inverter like the ones from durite which are a respectable brand would fit the ticket for around £200. Excluding losses- 600w at 230v= 2.61A 2.61A@230v= 55.23A @12V dc. So you could get one charge from a 110ah 12v battery assuming you're using the 1000 battery, the 3000 battery would need a ~150ah battery. You could use a split charge system and a deep cycle battery to keep it seperate from your main start battery to ensure you never run flat. Other, probably more reasonable system is to buy a micro-super quiet generator. Personally I wouldn't run it on the van charging with the engine running, it isn't good for the van, especially with the new emission systems. It would probably cost more to charge off the idling van than it would to charge from a little genny

Sadly I can't see it! It would be good if they did bring one out. The 500i does feel kind of floppy 😂

I got told to do bands when talking to one of the local utilities surveyors. They do all their specs in bands as a band of for example 1-1.5 means a minimum of 1m will be taken off. I guess they also pass their specs to the guys doing the work so saying up to 2m may mean the guys doing the job only take off 0.5 which matters more in utilities I suppose

Ahh sorry I read tree conservation area where there's a tpo automatically applied to a tree over X size 😂 are the application requirements are still the same though? As in having to specify reductions by meters?