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Paddy1000111

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Everything posted by Paddy1000111

  1. From my limited experience (I've only done 3 applications), crown thinings in percentage, crown reductions in meters. It's good to put a range, say 1-1.5 meters or whatever spec you want/need to give the climber a bit of leeway to do the work. If you specify 1m and he cuts off 1.4 then it's out of spec so go for a range
  2. For what it's worth, I burned some coniferous stuff (about 10 years ago now) and be it not dry enough or something else the tar went up inside the chimney and then got wet which activated the acid in the resin. It rotted through a brand new chimney liner in >2 years. The company replaced it for free and said they haven't seen that happen before so it can't be that common!
  3. A suitable back up that is 99% of the time made from rope 😂
  4. If he buys too many blondes he will have more than just tree rot to worry about 😂
  5. Probably a stupid question but have you contacted your local surveyors? If they don't do it themselves they may have contacts for someone who does who is nearby?
  6. I'm going to play devils advocate and say I quite like the 300mm Husqvarna tongs (haven't tried stihl mind) but I like the larger opening jaws, as some have said above you have to lift within your capabilities but when shifting larger lumps or smooth stuff like beech where the tongs don't always want to grab you can shift log length stuff (>12") by grabbing it on the flat cut ends as opposed to the round sides which has been beneficial for me anyway when moving lumps as having to squat down and pick up big chunks isn't good for your back or your willingness to do it 😂
  7. Not sure it's possible with on screen space etc but do you think you could add the location of someone to the mobile version? When viewing "Looking for work" posts etc it would be good to be able to see their location if they've added it?
  8. I now own 3 of these and they are absolutely fantastic. I use their climber 70. One bag is enough for 60M of 14mm sirius bull rope, rigging carabiners, 3 round slings up to 5m in length, 3 strops up to 3m and a flying capstan all in one. I like that the top is made from parachute material and cinches down so the rope can be pulled out but the sawdust stays out. They are pretty waterproof too, when I've left ropes on site for day 2 I put as much as I can back in the bag and flip it upside down, if there's a torrential rain storm most of the rope stays dry which aids drying. I quite like that for SRT stuff I can leave the rope inside the bag at the base so it's not getting hung up in stuff and I don't have to worry about branches and kit smashing up a £150 bag as I payed £30 for these. They've seen good use and look brand new still I can't recommend these enough!
  9. The sad emojis are knowing the feeling of getting to the end of the day with your feet on the ground and then having to kit back up again and go all the way to the top just to get that back 😂
  10. I'm just basing it on what Sam said, none of us speculating. If Sam says that's the reason I assume it is... 🤷🏼‍♂️
  11. A location may help with more replies 👍
  12. Whilst I agree with Paul about being tactful about what's said, if his wife does read this then maybe in the future she will check herself before banning her husband from employing a woman. Getting into a male led profession is hard enough for women without having their own sex against them too. My gf would be glad that I employed a woman if she's good at the job, equality and all that...
  13. Did he actually say that to you? That's a gender discrimination case if I ever heard one 😂😂
  14. I wouldn't put it on a chassis that takes it over 750 personally. If you want to resell it then it will just be an "underpowered" over 750 chipper.
  15. No reason you can't mod it to a needle roller but you would need a steel bush to act as the bearing face. A needle roller would eat a phos bronze bush
  16. Depends on your budget to work ratio? I'd order a bushing for it that is the right size for the rod and then 0.001" to 0.002" bigger (ideally 0.0015" oversize) than the pin. Install it by pressing it in with a vice, maybe use some green locktite to lock it in for sure and make install easier and give it a crack. You can also order key stock online and make a new key for the flywheel. I can't help with the measurements for the key though, I don't have a br600 to hand to measure for you! You could fix this for £10 if it's just the end bearing bushing and a new key. Lots of companies selling bushings. If you get one that's too long you can always cut it/file it/sand it back to size, just make sure to remove the burr
  17. I would go with utilities markings but by us we had white chalk markings by driveways which were supposedly dog nappers. Would have thought they would just use Google maps or what three words considering it's not the 80's anymore... 😂
  18. Well that's where everything is questioned I guess. I'm not saying anchor cutting doesn't happen because it 100% does but we all agreed earlier that a lot of the accidents were caused by inexperience. Everyone also agreed earlier that most of the inexperienced climbers worked for larger companies/utilities that are for the large part arb approved and bound by the rules of RIDDOR and HSE reporting. If cutting of the anchor was quite a common mistake it would have shown up at least once in three years I would have thought? In saying that I'm sure the accident rate for two rope will skyrocket over the next few years as more people use it, if no-one is climbing two rope then there won't be two rope accidents, that will all change now
  19. Then I apologise if that's what we were arguing about. I don't debate that at all, you are twice as likely to cut your anchor if you have two anchors. My only objection was to if I was using the set up I pictured and I was told I would be crushed by the harness or cut in half, which isn't true (except against the tree). Either way, I suppose, you're being dragged out the tree into a de-constructed mess on the floor. I guess my only question would be, are you safer using one anchor based on the possibility of cutting your anchor down which from what I have seen in the AA & HSE reports of falls from height I would say no. For 16-17-18 there were no reports of people cutting down their anchors and all of the accidents could have been prevented by having a second anchor. Arboricultural Association - HSE Fall from Height Incidents involving arborists WWW.TREES.ORG.UK <p class= lead bold mb10 >This article contains brief examples of the falls from height reported to HSE under RIDDOR.</p> <p>All injured persons were arborists.</p> <h3...
  20. I got recommended these: Eze-lap Chainsaw Sharpeners WWW.EZELAP.CO.UK They've been really good, like the Dremel one but with a guide fixed to it. I'm only on about the attachments here, not their grinding unit. As silverhooker says, hand filing is better but if you send it into a stone or nail it makes quick work of repairing before perfecting it with a hand file
  21. Yea I completely agree, but in the situation that I've cut away my anchor, I'd rather take the risk and hope the log breaks away first and the second anchor holds so I'm thrown around but don't hit the ground than there be no second and I'm just dragged out. That was my only point 👍
  22. Neither can I anymore. Let's just call it a day and say I'm wrong. I'm bored of it now
  23. Just to clarify this is what I'm on about: There's no way that the force between the anchor in the tree at the top and the 1 ton log at the bottom is imparted into a crushing force into the harness. But I'm being called an idiot and told I'm inexperienced but it's basic physics? Yes, it wouldn't be comfortable, yes you might end up with a broken arm or other appendage or slammed against the tree but I would rather that than have no upper anchor and just plummet with the 1 ton log and become pulp Is the argument here just caused by people being on about different things?

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