Paddy1000111

Like you say, stick a new solenoid on it and go from there. You're going to need to update it regardless. Do an Mtronic reset and see what happens. If it's no good then rebuild the carb and put a new gauze in. A basic carb rebuild i.e taking the top and bottom plates off and replacing the diaphragms, seals and spraying it out with cleaner is very, very easy to do!

I haven't had a lot of experience with the gauze filter in the carb getting blocked. I've only rebuilt 20-30 carbs on 2 stroke stuff and not once have I found blocked gauze. I'm sure Spud has had experience with it though! I would replace the solenoid as it's probably the easiest job on the carb, just brush it off with a paint brush, clean around it with some degreaser, undo the screws, pull it out and put a new one in. Spud will confirm but what colour is your solenoid? The black ones got updated to the white one: Solenoid Valve - Genuine Stihl Part - OEM No. 0000 120 5104 WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Solenoid Valve Genuine Stihl Part OEM Number - 0000 120 5104 Suitable for the Following Applications: MS 201 C-EM, MS 201 C-EM Z, MS 201 C-M, MS 201 C-M Z

considering the dirty fuel it really does sound like a solenoid issue. What colour is the fuel filter in the tank?

I agree, new filter, new solenoid, mtronic reset will probably fix the issue. That yellow coating is only there to stop the magnets getting rusty in storage

Only thing is with these is they won't read manufacturer level diagnostics. They will read OBDII but that only covers basic warning lights. The manufacturer level stuff is read from different lines on the OBD port and is why the old snap on stuff used to come with "keys" which re-directed the wiring to different ports on the scanner. Sadly the basic bluetooth ones won't cover the different protocols/pins used by manufacture diagnostics. The foxwell one has a set of relay banks that you can hear all clicking away re-wiring the link so it can speak to each module on the vehicle

I'm not 100%. If I scan my volvo with my foxwell I can access the computer in each door, phone modules, everything. It has even more connectivity with land rover so I don't see why it wouldn't scan it. For the price I would ring around a couple of local garages and ask them to plug in and tell you the codes. I can't imagine them wanting more than £30 for that.

Well there's a vast amount of free knowledge and help on here if you need it! Just don't forget to add photos!

Well the two options are: There's issue with the kit or its a bad batch of aspen. I don't know how big a single batch of aspen is but I would guess it's a few thousand litres. If the dealership was given a dodgy batch then loads of people would be returning it and it would be flagged with aspen by now. I would go to the dealer you got it from

Something isn't right here. There's nothing special about aspen, it's not really any different to husky or stihl motomix. It's just alkylate and oil. Neither of the machines have specialist fuel management kit built into them controlled by ECU's and sensors to detect fuel. There is absolutely no reason why they shouldn't run on aspen assuming they were perfect before which means there is an issue with both machines. Personally I would take both to the dealership you bought the Aspen from and ask them to take a look at them. Tell them you switched to Aspen and now both machines won't work. If it's the aspen they will say, but more likely they will tell you what's wrong with both your machines.

Interesting issues. Have you had the battery drop tested etc? What can happen is the low voltage during a start or after being sat overnight can raise a string of faults if the battery is dead, usually low voltage/communication errors so units throw fault lights. It's similar to when you remove the battery the car forgets its self tests so when you start it again it usually has power steering, abs, headlight errors etc whilst it does it's self test on the first drive.

I use a foxwell NT644. It seems to scan everything I throw at it including all the manufacturer diagnostics. It comes with lifetime updates and can do individual unit scanning like ABS and alarm modules. Also seems to cover injector recoding, dpf regeneration, electronic park brake resets, gearbox re-learning and other stuff for most models. It's also the only scanner I have found that works with TD5 defenders as they aren't OBD compliant (outside of the td5 specific tools) I leave it in the car as it's always handy. What's wrong with your disco? I could have a look on my machine and see if it will cover it?

By the sounds of things if it had fuel in then chances are you will need to rebuild the carb as after 2 years everything will be quite gummy/crispy. Buy a can of carb cleaner/brake degreaser and give it a go yourself if you fancy it. Use a brush to clean off around the carb, take it off and then give it a good blast out with some cleaner. There's not much in them that's complicated. Take photos as you go and learn! This video covers it pretty well: The only thing I would say is leave the two white screws/adjustment screws alone as they don't need messing with really for a basic clean. Just take the top and bottom plates off, give everything a good spray out and flush and then re-assemble with new gaskets/diaphragms

I take it there's no fuel in it? I would buy a can of aspen, stick that in it and see if it starts/runs. If it does then ask a dealership to service it. If it doesn't then take it to the dealer and ask them to take a look but contact you before they spend any money. They will be able to tell you what the equivalent unit is and the costs then factor up the condition of the unit vs the cost of repairs and the cost of a new saw. If the saw is in really good nick and almost unused and the repair is cheap then get it fixed.

If you're using the same can on both those engines then something has happened. @Aspen@AAOILwill advise but if it is a dodgy batch don't throw it away so they can investigate.

All of my previous assessors have been contracted from companies like Avalon Assessments. Might be worth speaking with a company like that?

I'm with @adw on this. Don't blow it out with an airline. It's bad practice. Not just for the filter but you're making all the concrete dust airborne which if you like silicosis then go for it. Gently tap it out on a clean surface if it's a bit chocked up and replace it when necessary, there's a reason they're cheap. If you can spray in a tickle of easy start and it still won't fire then it's spark or compression. Get the compression tester on it and swap the plug out just incase. You could have a crack in the spark plug, plug boot or HT lead that only shorts when the plugs in. Take the HT lead off and bend it back and forth to look for split insulation and do the same with the boot.

It's something I regret not getting on my 261. When I picked it up years back the cost was a priority over the handles sadly! Now the cost of doing it means it's kind of pointless! I've been getting by with the pfanner ice grip gloves so far. Warm hands throughout the day!

Can you buy a kit for the 261 to fit the heated handles?

I was just trying to work out what's best for my Dremel as like you say, something I spent a fortune on 😂

Ideal! I already have the battery Dremel so I'm not worried about that, more just getting decent bits! I'll have a gander at the granberg sharpener

Cromwell Tools - Experts in Hand Tools, Power Tools and PPE WWW.CROMWELL.CO.UK UK's largest tools supplier, featuring over 100k products at trade prices. Next day... It's similar but yes. I got mine back when I was doing aircraft work!

Any advice on a bench grinder? Seeing as I'm looking to go down the milling road for a bit of fun I want something that can give me a good finish so I don't have to deal with the additional nightmare of chain issues ontop of learning to mill 😂

Looks like a good option. Same as the rest of the kranzle range solid brass pump head, metal gearbox etc. As long as you bleed the air out the head by putting the tap on and pulling the trigger on the lance before turning it on and I advise you change the oil on it (15W40) once a year or so, they will last a lifetime. I love mine. I had Karcher and all sorts before but they always leaked or fell over during use because they were plastic crap. I don't get a drip out of my kranzle and even put it inside the house on the carpet when I'm pressure washing by the back door as I trust it (and can't be bothered to find an extension cord) Those 1050's weigh 19kg so you get an idea of what you're buying. It's not a toy! Another thing to note is they use an industrial motor so they're like a compressor. Don't use a flimsy cheap extension lead as it will either melt the lead or it can damage the motor because of power loss in the cable causing an overheat. Either buy a high quality extension lead that's short as possible or I bought some 2.5mm (25A) Arctic Flex cable, an IP66 weatherproof socket with a gland and a regular plug for the other end and made my own extension that can handle anything plugged into it!

I bought a Kranzle. If you can stretch your budget a little they are well worth the cost. I have a K10 but they have other options that suit your budget. They are industrial bits of kit oil filled gearboxes and all metal parts and although they are compact they are build like a brick S*** house. They don't come with all the plastic flaff and pretty covers. You get a high quality motor, a brass pump head, ceramic coasted stainless pistons etc. You 100% get what you pay for. They come with a 2 year warranty on wear and a 10 year warranty on corrosion. After 4 years I had a tiny crack appear in my brass pump head from an unknown cause so I took the pump head off and sent it in and they only charged me for the brass bit that needed replacing. They serviced it with new valves etc and sent it back all for well under £100. They stock all the parts for their old kit going back through the years and offer servicing and repairs no matter the age. Their customer service is absolutely spot on too. I honestly can't speak high enough of them! In the matter of power, mine is 130Bar. With a rotary cone dirt blaster nozzle on it rips off loose paint, the patio cleaner on high power will take off the top layer of stone and I even have a sand blasting attachment for it that will cut through aluminium panels (as I found out on a land rover that was corroded). I would question the 272 bar thing that you posted up as that's a lot of pressure? If you want something that will last, have available parts, be easy to work on then buy a Kranzle.

Tell me about it, it's even worse on the stihl chisel chains where the tip of the tooth gets chipped off 😔