Vedhoggar

I put that to a Stihl dealer a couple of years ago and the dealer told me Stihl would not say but he thought it might be up to a year. I've been using Stihl HP in machines on a regularly basis i.e. weekly/monthly and haven't experienced any problem mixing it with standard E5 petrol but with machines I do not use regularly its Ethanol free petrol. I have also been mixing for years the Ethanol Shield with standard E5 petrol for some 4-stroke engines without problem.

The super grade is E5 (5% Ethenol) and octane >90 (97?) and I think it’s recommended that chainsaws should run on >90 octane but not aware of a specified upper limit, would have thought it would just run cleaner. In the past I’ve used Ethanol free fuel or E5 standard fuel with stabiliser and used the E5 within a month as one time I had E5 in a generator without stabiliser for months and when we came to use the machine it would not start and cost £50 to sort out the carb. Another guy had standard E5 in a saw without stabiliser which he hadn’t used for about 6 months which was stop/starting/cutting out and he just couldn’t get it to work, that cost him about £50 to sort out the carb too. A local lawnmower/chainsaw mechanic advised me on Monday not to use E10 in small machines so it’s going to be a case of ‘suck and see’ I suppose.

Rock tool vaults are good value and well made (rock machinery.co.uk) also as mentioned by someone else Cleveland Sitesafe which do a wide range of well made products of all shapes and sizes.

Ethanol attracts moisture and E10 will presumably do this more that E5, so if fuel left in a machine which is not used for a while it may be difficult to start or even may not start at all.

Probably, particularly if saw not used daily/weekly. We won't be using E10 in any of our machines instead will continue to use E5 super grade type fuel in machines used regularly and ethanol free fuel in machines used infrequently.

Go back straight … zig, zag back and forth more often, I do the same a lot of the time i.e. just reverse trailer if it looks like it’s going to be difficult/impossible for them.

I think some employers will still want employees professionally trained and/or see a certificate of competence in future. I meet drivers regularly on narrow country roads that can’t reverse a small car never mind a trailer.

Use a section of scaffolding pole for years on one with no problem.

The Burley Holywell 9105-C and Bradgate 9305-C are both up to 90.4% efficient, it’ll be the Holywell 9105 that you have Stubby not the 9105-C. Both 5kW norm - 6.4kW max. Haven’t got one myself but a friend of mine has just ordered one and if I was after a new wood burning stove of that size myself I would definitely get one.

The most efficient UK stove is the 2022 Burley Ecoelite range of stoves, designed, developed and made in England, they produced the only UK stove, three stage combustion with a catalytic converter, some models are 92% efficient, double glazed with temperature reaching 400-600C with no extra use of fuel - more heat and less woodfuel. They do 4kW-12kW stoves (burley.co.uk).

Haix Protector Light Up to size 13.5/EU49 Trekker Mountain 2.0 Up to UK 14/EU 50 Protector Pro 2.0 Up to UK 15/EU51

I think advice given to client at the outset was sound and outcome therefore not your fault. The best thing to do now I would have thought would be to spray regrowth with Gyphosate before end of August, if a problem in spraying some areas consider using a weedwiper on foliage. You could also in places possibly take a mattock and get down to sections of roots/damage them and then apply roundup. Point out that repeat follow up applications may be necessary in future years.

Is your wire core flipline long enough? Are you using an aluminium karabiner or heavier steel karabiner? In some situations you could attach flipline to a length or rope and get groundsman to walk around tree. On your second point - I use a prussic loop these days instead of rope grab and never had it slip. Never fallen out of a tree in a lifetime of tree work because of a flipline or climbing rope. Have ended up in wrong position on steep lean but never been stuck.

Tree Climber’s Companion for knots and climbing techniques. Knots Step by Step Des Pawson for Guide to tying knots in general is quite good. Climbing knots I use (old school): bowline, prussik knot, figure of eight and double fisherman’s knot (to make prussik loop). Other knots I used in general tree work: running bowline, timber hitch, marlin-spike hitch, carters hitch, sheet bend and anchor bend variant.

Suggested options: 1. Cone splitter then the 3m sections through processor. 2. Cut into 1m lengths/split with reasonably fast vertical or horizontal splitter to <15cm dia, stack billets/pre season then sell as 1m billets or put through processor when seasoned/light enough to manually lift and cut to required log lengths. Don’t know of anyone with mobile equipment large enough to process those oversized logs.

What percentage increase did you feel was necessary to cover costs related to Woodsure?

What sort of lengths of timber to process?

Didn’t realise some Landrover pickups had a bed length of 2.5m thought they were about 1.9m - 2m, if 2.5m then should take two 90 x 90 x90 bags.

Depends on the size of bag but the bed won’t be not long enough to take two common size 90 x 90 x 90 bags with tailgate up but it might take small ones, no problem weight wise with seasoned logs. You can just fit two bags 90 x 90 x 90 into the back of a single cab Mitsubishi L200 single cab with tailgate up and the bed is 2.15m long which is longer than the Landrover. Volume wise if you empty the dumpy bags and net the logs you may be alright.

As there is a housing shortage in the UK the probability is that house prices will continue to rise although there may be ups and downs however returns on stocks and shares has in the past been greater when the two options are compared over the long term as an investment. Buying a house is not the best option for everyone as you have a lot of capital tied up in one asset which you might want for other things furthermore you reach a point in life when you might be better selling up renting a house and buying a motorhome and/or traveling with the proceeds from the house sale or something unless you want something to pass on as inheritance. If young, settled and raising a family it might make sense to buy a house if you can afford it. Sometimes a leased or rented property might be better in terms of location, size and opportunity for operating a business than you would ever be able to afford if you buy for the same monthly payment.

Alder

Garmin GPS with inReach satellite communication has two-way text messaging and can SOS from anywhere, you can also load OS maps which cover whole of UK and for other countries. When actively used you get about 35 hrs but you can carry spare batteries. It doesn’t come cheap, apart from the initial cost of the device there is a subscription fee too (various plans depending on needs). If just for emergency help McMurdo FastFind PLB (personal location beacon) which is small enough to fit into a pocket and half the price of the Garmin mentioned and no subscription, it works on satellite technology, it sends out an SOS signal when activated and will locate position within a few meters (I’ve had one for years but fortunately never had to use it).

One of pros about living in Sweden is the comparatively low cost of housing in rural areas where many Swedes are do not want to live compared to UK.