Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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I've got an M500 which might have the same bearings, I got an English manual by asking Global Recycling while I was ordering some parts. It is very light on detail though. Mine didn't have a working hour clock when I got it, since the drum bearings went I put one on, so now I check belts, grease bearings, change oil every 50 hours. Filter change 100 hours. The bearings are sealed so I don't want to over grease them. You can also find a Honda engine manual fairly easily, they suggest oil change 100 hours or 6 months but I don't do 100 hours in 6 months so compromise, trying to remember every 6 months doesn't work for me. Edit: so far 220 hours on this regime so it's not an immediate disaster, time will tell how much more I get out of the bearings.
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Fluting as indication of decay in Populus nigra x Italica
Dan Maynard replied to CReid's topic in Tree health care
I've heard of it in oaks, bottlebutt etc. Pops seem to react by turning to mush. -
The drought problem is worse than you describe, the last 3 or 4 years have been dry. One dry year the trees can survive but it's a widespread problem now. I suspect it's too late for your tree unfortunately.
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Have you got a knee ascender? I don't have a hand ascender, just foot and knee so it's two legs providing the drive.
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I had a go with the husky one couple of years ago, it was smooth and extended well. I was just trimming limes though. You'd have to check what is available, battery supply has been a problem.
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Definitely, as a tree surgeon I used to bring home lots of wood, but not this year - people either keeping it for themselves or a neighbour. Even been paid for leylandii rings which you couldn't give away before.
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On mine, I took the exhaust out and then took off the little cover, and opened up the existing hole to be the size of the channel coming up. It's nicer than drilling because the gases still come out the same direction. Still livens up the saw as desired. https://youtu.be/uVRsZBdcUDM
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As long as it doesn't give an affectionate peck in your ear.
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To me it looks like the hopper narrows in at the sides a lot, wouldn't want to do a cherry with that. I've not seen one though, didn't make the show.
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Liquidambar with many competing leaders and possible rot in crotches
Dan Maynard replied to alg's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Seems like the only other practical option is remove the whole tree though. Then repollard every 3-5 years to stop it getting so big again. -
Is this dead tree dangerous?
Dan Maynard replied to sandspider's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
If you saw a branch you'll see the reddish brown colour if it's elm. -
Areas where the bark has fallen off won't start growing again, except by cambium growing across from the live areas at the side.
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Hadn't heard of it but not convinced, seems to lack adjustability. Prussic adjustment allows you to snug up and create an anchor point on vertical stem which is really useful. I'll stick to my multisaver.
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Is this dead tree dangerous?
Dan Maynard replied to sandspider's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
Bits might fall off but if the roots decay then the whole thing can go over. It makes a lot of difference whether it's elm or alder, elm tends to rot slowly in the soil so they usually stand for a good while. Alder on the other hand is a bit of a gamble. -
1/3 is a lot. The wood may be solid but is likely to decay and hollow though, you should ideally get reaction growth around the hole to compensate. The worry is that it stops food getting to the roots on that side, you then lose support on that side as they die. Of course it all depends where it is but if there are targets this seems like a tree you should get someone to come and look at in person.
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DeWalt and Makita are different league saws, the Makita stuff holds up. I've tried the T540i and no doubt it cuts fast, but it's bloody heavy. Imo. I take the Mak saws to arb sites and don't get piss taking, anyone who owns a T540i is really impressed how light the single battery one is. On hedges and reductions the cut speed is irrelevant, I'm very happy the saw is lighter. If you're comparing petrol saws it's like saying the 540 is superior in every way to the 525. Well it's more powerful and cuts faster, but it's bigger and heavier and I wouldn't want the extra weight if I don't need it.
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I've had some of the original black Bear valley ones for a few years, but I got some green ones more recently as wearing black in the sun not brilliant. The new ones have more ventilation in the side too. I like long sleeves in connie hedges in the winter but not summer, would ruin my T-shirt tan lines.
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Only one I can think of is latest Stihl that's supposed to be 261 equivalent, sadly it's quite a bit heavier. I've said before that I don't see battery taking over the big saws, it comes down to energy density. It's not a question like laptop or phones where the device efficiency has been so massively improved, cutting wood takes a certain amount of energy and so the fundamental physics are against you.
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Does the Makita 4 stroke blower have enough puff though? I've been looking at those myself. Id buy your DUC254 if you were local as I seem to have worn mine out, trigger or board fault. It's done a lot of pruning and a hell of a lot of hedge work, no need for cutting performance it's all about quick easy re-start when topping conifer, or having an engine running when you put it down.
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I don't honestly know if I'd feel safer in that or tied in to a dead beech. Doesn't look like any mewps I've used but of course not used many.
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Ash tree works.. advice required please
Dan Maynard replied to Twentyeight Trees's topic in Trees and the Law
You now know there is decay at the base of that limb, I would say a complete limb failure then becomes reasonably foreseeable even if reduced slightly so option 1 is out. I don't think complete removal of the limbs makes sense, you will increase the decay pocket and make stem failure more likely. To me that leaves option 2, or as above fell. I don't think you can avoid liability as such, unless as suggested above you get a consultant to specify the works it would be on them. My tree surgery insurance includes professional indemnity as long as I'm not paid for the advice, so in a case like this I would have a degree of cover. Doesn't make it an easy choice though. Some of it comes down to the client and owners attitude to the tree, if everyone hates it then removal becomes easier to recommend. -
Ah I see, retirement move to a secret location so people stop bringing you saws? Surely someone on here is near enough though?
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I looked at their dual action one, not convinced that it's really twice as fast as you have a much longer stroke too. My little splitter has quick auto return and that means you're sorting the next log while it's going up. I like the table type vertical splitter as the round sits on the table while you split pieces off, and I think means less bending over. That said, best idea so far is pay one of my children to run it.
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Going to depend on area, competition etc but I'd say 2 years ago, about £80 if you could find someone to buy them. Last year anything up to £150, next year, well anyone's guess. Somewhere in between I think. Some of the competition is internet sellers sending pallets so you can Google a certain amount to find a market rate. Some of the posh websites round here are really expensive.
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Crikey that is bad! At least you can point at what's wrong and know which bit to fix though.
