Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Do you get the max performance with the smaller batteries?
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Love the chainsaw in the foreground sat motionless, as a symbol of the old ways. Like a tractor ploughing in a field next to horses.
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This was going to be my advice, though I don't think you can send in to Harry Hill and get £200 any more.
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I think call rather than email, not liking written communications is one of the things that pushes people into arb in the first place. The other thing I'd do is ask around and keep asking your network of family friends and acquaintances if they know someone who is a tree surgeon. When I was starting I got the same 'need experience' from the firm who had a yard in my village, but a friend of a friend had a small local firm a bit further away. I still do 1 day a week there 7 years later.
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I think you're right to be concerned, large areas of bark flaking off is not a good sign, but advice from photos is really that you need to have someone competent in to visit and make a proper assessment. I think the water probably does funnel down that way but unlikely to be the cause of the problem. My guess would be heat from a fire, you don't need to get bark very hot to kill off the cambium layer just under the surface.
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Just reading this again it doesn't say battery or mains in the original post. My battery saw has a brake with a band and spring, and a cutout switch operated by the front handle.
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You can always ask, whether you get a sensible answer..... I have Makita top handle saws, the sprocket comes off easily. It's not a clutch drum as on a petrol saw but there's a brake drum and band which can all be stripped out and cleaned, if you've never done this it is probably jammed up with sawdust. Think you just need a PZ2 screwdriver. Taking the brake spring out was a bit more annoying but still possible. Have a careful look at the parts diagrams you can find online to see the bits.
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He's using the Roman map of Scotland.
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.... but it is great habitat in the meantime, in the hollows, decaying wood and ivy. Personally I wouldn't race to take it down if you don't have to. I also wouldn't overthink the reduction work, it's not like it's going to compartmentalise the decay and carry on to form a beautiful tree, the cavities are there to stay and it's going to slowly fall apart whatever you do. Hack off bits before they fall off and injure someone for sure. Then take it down.
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I get an email some of the time, no answer is acceptable response and means no objection. Do your council have an online planning comment system? Ours do so my first step is check they have validated the notice and put dates against it. I think in theory once you have notified them the clock starts, but if you wait till after the 6 week target date on the system then no argument either way.
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A decent Stihl or Oregon chain will have chrome plating on the outside of the teeth, that's standard.
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Look at how much new spikes are too, I've been surprised how much they shot up. £200 on pads might be good value if they're comfortable.
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I dream about small shears every time I have anything to do with a blackthorn hedge. Wouldn't care much what it looked like tbh, hands thorn free would be worth it.
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Pollarding and felling licence
Dan Maynard replied to Paul in the woods's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
If it's near the power line I'd be having a word with the DNO, they have exemption from requirement for a felling license anyway so there's no question. Where in the country are you? -
Willow or alder. I haven't looked anything up but beech does fabulously on those well drained chalky downlands of Sussex.
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Have a look at the chain specialist websites eg www.chainsawbars.co.uk Stihl RM and Oregon semi chisel available. I run it on my 461 when the woods dirty, slightly slower cutting is quicker than loads of filing.
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Whoa hand on there Steve! You need to rush out and buy 200 toilet rolls and 30 bags of pasta first!
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Chaps are worn by cowboys. Never seen any worn on site, groundworkers usually wear type A 's . If you're a normal size they can be had for reasonable money eg the SIP, Englebert Strauss, look at Chris Forestry.
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Need to find a really old machine with blown engine that someone's scrapping I guess , they might let that go for a few hundred quid.
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Id say 2. I wouldn't do more courses until you get going and know it's for you. Cross cut and felling, then get your own helmet, saw trousers and boots and you've got the basic needed to be useful on site. 3. It is pretty common, trick is finding the person who needs you, at the time you're looking, in the place you want to be. You will probably have to make a lot of calls to get going and maybe compromise on one of the three eg it's harder in general to find extra weekend work. 4. Find a good training provider and talk to everyone you can as much as possible, you need to find and meet people on the local grapevine. Good luck!
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Ah didn't think of that, maybe should have let the dog run after them instead.
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Recommendations for arb body installations around Hertfordshire
Dan Maynard replied to CampbellsArb's topic in Arb-Trucks
Personally if you're starting then I'd go marine ply but make sure you give it a good soaking in green fence paint - makes it a lot smarter and also last longer. There are doubtless other things you should spend the extra money on to make jobs more efficient, Vs a custom body. -
Not that I'm stalking the bloke but I'd say Bartlett https://www.linkedin.com/in/tom-campbell-1724a7257?originalSubdomain=uk
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Unless they just rocked up and knocked on the door .....
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I'd be pretty wary of advising a staged takedown to avoid heave, the implication then is if heave occurs I got my advice wrong and the insurers lawyers could have a field day. As @woody paul says if there's any question let the insurance company specify as they are liable for consequences. That all presumes the site meets the criteria for possible heave anyway, ie shrinkable clay and trees older than house foundation.
