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Dan Maynard

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Everything posted by Dan Maynard

  1. If it was me I'd whizz everything, then final test/nip with a bar on the socket. I am supposed to be an engineer though. The highest rating you need is able to undo the nuts where they are stuck on, but once you've done it and copper greased the threads that won't be too bad.
  2. When I look at my granddad's Dolmar 112 it was pretty advanced for the time which must have been end of 70s. AV, chain brake, wide rear handle guard, some plastic covers to save weight.
  3. Someone has, I'm thinking @doobin ?
  4. Tempting, honestly, but got to be sat in front of a computer all day.
  5. Muck truck is 28" wide. Probably not helpful at this point.
  6. It's good to have options. It's not as powerful as the 1001 but much less of a lump to wave about.
  7. I think these are likely to be exactly the same machine, just with different paint and stickers on. They'll be better than the £200 B&Q special, but not as good as a European built. For my money, buy once means buy European, spend more and get quality which lasts, able to get spares in 10 years time, etc - but I appreciate people allocate budgets differently. Oxdale, Thor, Posch probably the main choices.
  8. I got the DTW285, seems it's been updated... "The Makita DTW302Z impact wrench replaces the DTW285, the scaffolder's number 1 choice for many years. " Makita DTW302Z 18v Brushless Impact Wrench (Body Only) WWW.FASTFIX.CO.UK The Makita DTW302Z impact wrench replaces the DTW285, the scaffolder's number 1 choice for...
  9. I was thinking you were enjoying the strictly final too, but time calculation shows you were well ahead of that curve.
  10. I'll have to check in the garage which one I bought, not the huge Makita but one down. Agreed you don't absolutely need, but it is a really good tool, there is stuff it won't undo but so much it will, and makes quicker and easier. Wheel nuts are ok, some of the brake caliper bolts I've tried it didn't shift. Chipper blades much easier. Chainsaw clutch one quick buzz, no excuse to leave them on for years to take root.
  11. This time next year, Rodney, this time next year.
  12. Melted the ends in and everything....
  13. Slow is smooth, smooth is fast..... I've got route planning up my sleeve too, but I'm the wrong side of 50 to ever be fast
  14. I'm with you on the petzl eject, no amount of convincing will get me over the name.
  15. That doesn't absolutely have to be the case, if you do them properly twice a year every year they end up like carpet. Missing trims is the problem, then you can't wind back like you say.
  16. I know what you mean, but you stop looking at it after a while just like all the other bits that will kill you if they fail. It helps that it's steel, feels much more solid in the hand than the other aluminium gear.
  17. I got a camp gyro swivel too, suddenly makes 2 rope a lot more workable. I don't like the extra bits flopping about when advancing branches up the tree, so generally biner the RR on to bridge ring, then once I've set TIP I put ropes on to the swivel to work back down. I don't want to say it too loud but I quite like having 2 ropes sometimes, can just wander about chopping without lanyard in and out. If it's not helping I just drop the second one anyway. One of my ropes is VT on hitchclimber and I haven't really noticed that twisting. I wonder if the DMM swivel has bearings, the gyro is just stainless ball on the end of each arm so little bit of friction maybe enough to stop it spinning unwanted?
  18. ... or just leave them be, plenty of space so no need to keep them small, remove deadwood as it's naturally shaded out. If you cut them hard, they sprout hard and then you are managing sprouts for the next 6 years.
  19. I believe if the tree dies naturally you still have a duty to replant, so I'd definitely check with the council. We have had this discussion before, is cutting up a fallen tree works to a TPO tree or not? It's not dead yet, probably still carry on growing but the amenity value is clearly affected. In practical terms it needs moving off the driveway obviously.
  20. Yes viton is what we used to put in pharmaceutical jobs as better chemical resistance, or silicone rubber. Also in that case to do with alcohol resistance and subsequent not leaching chemicals back out.
  21. I guess as you move it back towards where it started you're getting more roots back in the ground. I reckon there's a happy medium which involves a stout length of oak trunk to hold it up, that would also stop it blowing back down.
  22. https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p80406/1mm-Section-3mm-Bore-NITRILE-70-Shore-Rubber-O-Rings/product_info.html These would be a standard, you might want to investigate materials for ethanol fuel, or might find a softer shore in something like silicone rubber. Bit of trial and error.
  23. It's a while but I used to do some mechanical design. Measuring the groove rather than the Oring is wise, there's a standard to fit bores and another for shafts. You should need a 5mm diameter, 1mm thick ring. This will compress slightly between the 3.2 and 5 (groove depth 0.9) but not fill the groove sideways.
  24. Business as in not for your own personal use. If you're not vat registered business you're supposed to pay the vat and enjoy it.

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