Dan Maynard

The multisaver is a brilliant bit of kit, on small trees you set it long when dropping away from the anchor so your rope isn't rubbing on the stem and shorten it up when you go back up. Chogging a pole you lengthen it as the pole gets fatter, or round lumps, then you have a descendable drt anchor all the way down which is safer than just throwing climb line round. Put the rope through the third ring first, stops it hanging down and getting spiked. So a well thought through, reliable, safe bit of kit. Works well, retrieves well, passes loler. Much better value in my opinion than eg ART ropeguide at over £200. I haven't used my fixed length cambium saver once since buying it, definitely wouldn't waste money on one. Once you get used to a multisaver you can't go back, the fixed one is always too long or too short and hence a pain in the arse. As you say, wrapping ends your chance of retrieval, forget it. I wouldn't hesitate to buy another. Edit: forgot to say Stein make a version now as well.

I think I've heard of people running 3/8 058 on worn 050 bars before, as 050 are more common in the states. If it's running free then there's no excess friction to cause heating, I'd run it and see how it goes.

I don't know if a commercial insurance on the trucks would be the same as a car policy, but they may have been obligated to report to their insurance company as the truck was driving at the time. After that it's out of the director's hands really. The truck insurers would just weigh probabilities and bat it back as unlikely to be proven. I feel as if best option would be let your HIP insurer argue with them.

Keep the bits so you can make a flip line from the end of your climb line when you nick that and have to cut 5m off.

I think there are still a few that don't have the PU midsole, Pfanner Tirol being one. Some of the more expensive Haix say they have vibram soles too, different to the £250 ones.

I reckon they're a bit like Daleks, I'd be able to get away by running up stairs.

It goes twice completely around the trunk so chance of it pulling through is nil.

Got to be the tube twisted to reach the valve out of the hole, if the tube is in it's natural position the pressure holds the valve out not sucked in. Put a couple of psi in the tube out in the open you'll see where the valve is stuck to the donut. Its probably not in the middle anyway.

If you don't get the trailer then your customers better be happy being left with a huge pile of rubbish so that would be number one. Chipper is mainly an advantage in reducing the volume of brash and hence number of tip runs, you might be able to do without for a bit. Depends on travel times but could save hours per job. Unless you have a functioning setup I wouldn't get a bucket truck, you'll just overload the trailer even quicker.

This change applied to bigger employers, and public sector, not small private sector employers. You can use this tool to get a determination of whether you are an employee under IR35, it sounds to me like you would be exactly in the category they wanted to clamp down on. Its not absolutely closed though, I do regular contract work in firms van wearing their uniform, but using my tools and PPE and i work for myself too, this is outside IR35. Check employment status for tax - GOV.UK WWW.GOV.UK Use the Check Employment Status for Tax (CEST) tool to find out if you, or a worker on a specific... Other thing to bear in mind, it's easy to underestimate the benefits of PAYE, eg sick and holiday pay, pay while training, pay when work goes quiet or jobs overrun, etc etc.

Cake is worth a lot, flour and eggs a lot less.

Super glue is the best I've found, I made some Airstreams last until the tread wore off by keeping them glued up tight. My theory is if you let the bottom sole loose at all then it wears the soft middle, keep it stuck on there's no movement. Medium viscosity will fill small gaps, no brand 5ml on Amazon has been fine and only a couple of quid.

I think modern pads are harder, takes more like 50-100 miles.

Power is force time speed and you're limited in how much power you can pull from a 13 or 16 amp domestic socket. Upping the budget to 1k doesn't quite get you out of the Chinese weeds, you need around 1500 to get something from Posch, Thor, Oxdale or the like. I'd keep an eye out for good secondhand though, better off with repairable quality than a cheap new one I think.

That answers my question. Otherwise a safe is just more keys in sequence, if you know the combination it's not stopping you from getting van key out immediately plod leave.

Looks like you need a mountain bike to go back and fetch the van!

That bark looks like it's dead and flaking off. Get a recommendation for a local tree surgeon to come and have a look, difficult to say off photos but could be whole branch died back. It happens, sometimes it's the start of whole tree decline or sometimes just one branch.

Its tricky starting out because everyone will ask what's your day rate, when you don't really have one yet. Own PPE is pretty essential, own saw less so. Depends what sort of firm you sub to and what jobs going on, some days you could be clearing and dragging all day, some days on the saw all day. If you don't bring one you're at the mercy of someone else's saw, sharpening, etc so nicer to bring your own. The nearest to an industry sheet I know is find a freelancer https://arbtalk.co.uk/find-a-freelancer/#close More climbers than groundies, but you can see rates vary by area on there. Subbie climbing rates reflect the gear needed, rough guess groundies half to two thirds climbing rate. All depends though. Last thing, if you have machinery tickets that could be you find a fairly mechanised firm and become more machine operator than groundie - then your rate could be much better.

We can answer this question: no it's not.

Does it burn cleanly or is there smoke? If it flares up and then glows like charcoal then I don't see a problem.

I wouldn't thin smaller suckers, if anything I'd take out the thicker ones. Problem with this kind of tree since it's been topped is there is likely to be rot pockets at the big cuts, you don't want the long shoots breaking off. I do tend to agree though, it's a lot of work to keep a lime tree small. Probably not the right tree for this location.

Probably use a silky for that, pole pruner for the sides.

It was a scout summer camp. Starts with people gingerly paddling around, then games and messing around, ends the only way it can with everyone in the water including leaders.

And increasingly green wood is worth money as firewood anyway, quick turnaround.

That's brilliant, we had coracles one scout camp. Initially feel really wobbly but are actually surprisingly stable and hard to tip someone out if they don't want to go.