Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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Don't know if this link will work for you but there's a great picture showing typical root distribution in the top layer of soil. There probably are not lots of other deep roots, so those surface roots are most likely what is holding the trees up. https://www.trees.org.uk/Trees.org.uk/files/61/6181f2b7-e35d-4075-832f-5e230d16aa9e.pdf
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I know two female gardeners that really like theirs, easier than a handsaw or loppers for anything too big for secateurs, saves on wrist strain. I don't know how much real cutting you'd get or how long the battery lasts.
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No no, 2004 td5 hardtop.
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First year, drops back to £190 after that unless list price over £40k. Don't know if that would affect a Ranger but certainly Grenadier. If your Ranger was registered before 2017 it would be over £700 a year ongoing, that makes the first year £5k look more like a front loading of the tax. Luckily my defender is prior to 06 so capped at £400. It's all really complicated, I didn't realise all these rules and then everything changed in 2017.
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That's the one!
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One of my reasons/excuses for driving a Defender is that as it gets older it adds character rather than being more shabby.
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If it was me I'd whizz everything, then final test/nip with a bar on the socket. I am supposed to be an engineer though. The highest rating you need is able to undo the nuts where they are stuck on, but once you've done it and copper greased the threads that won't be too bad.
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When I look at my granddad's Dolmar 112 it was pretty advanced for the time which must have been end of 70s. AV, chain brake, wide rear handle guard, some plastic covers to save weight.
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Someone has, I'm thinking @doobin ?
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Tempting, honestly, but got to be sat in front of a computer all day.
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Muck truck is 28" wide. Probably not helpful at this point.
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It's good to have options. It's not as powerful as the 1001 but much less of a lump to wave about.
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I think these are likely to be exactly the same machine, just with different paint and stickers on. They'll be better than the £200 B&Q special, but not as good as a European built. For my money, buy once means buy European, spend more and get quality which lasts, able to get spares in 10 years time, etc - but I appreciate people allocate budgets differently. Oxdale, Thor, Posch probably the main choices.
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I got the DTW285, seems it's been updated... "The Makita DTW302Z impact wrench replaces the DTW285, the scaffolder's number 1 choice for many years. " Makita DTW302Z 18v Brushless Impact Wrench (Body Only) WWW.FASTFIX.CO.UK The Makita DTW302Z impact wrench replaces the DTW285, the scaffolder's number 1 choice for...
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Seeking advice on best tool to deal with bramble infestation
Dan Maynard replied to jonrec's topic in Landscaping
I was thinking you were enjoying the strictly final too, but time calculation shows you were well ahead of that curve. -
I'll have to check in the garage which one I bought, not the huge Makita but one down. Agreed you don't absolutely need, but it is a really good tool, there is stuff it won't undo but so much it will, and makes quicker and easier. Wheel nuts are ok, some of the brake caliper bolts I've tried it didn't shift. Chipper blades much easier. Chainsaw clutch one quick buzz, no excuse to leave them on for years to take root.
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This time next year, Rodney, this time next year.
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Melted the ends in and everything....
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Slow is smooth, smooth is fast..... I've got route planning up my sleeve too, but I'm the wrong side of 50 to ever be fast
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I'm with you on the petzl eject, no amount of convincing will get me over the name.
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Advice needed - big leylandii badly damaged by storm
Dan Maynard replied to Sambucus's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
That doesn't absolutely have to be the case, if you do them properly twice a year every year they end up like carpet. Missing trims is the problem, then you can't wind back like you say. -
I know what you mean, but you stop looking at it after a while just like all the other bits that will kill you if they fail. It helps that it's steel, feels much more solid in the hand than the other aluminium gear.
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I got a camp gyro swivel too, suddenly makes 2 rope a lot more workable. I don't like the extra bits flopping about when advancing branches up the tree, so generally biner the RR on to bridge ring, then once I've set TIP I put ropes on to the swivel to work back down. I don't want to say it too loud but I quite like having 2 ropes sometimes, can just wander about chopping without lanyard in and out. If it's not helping I just drop the second one anyway. One of my ropes is VT on hitchclimber and I haven't really noticed that twisting. I wonder if the DMM swivel has bearings, the gyro is just stainless ball on the end of each arm so little bit of friction maybe enough to stop it spinning unwanted?
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To Australia or maybe even further, like Suffolk.
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Can these apple be improved/saved?
Dan Maynard replied to spandit's question in Homeowners Tree Advice Forum
... or just leave them be, plenty of space so no need to keep them small, remove deadwood as it's naturally shaded out. If you cut them hard, they sprout hard and then you are managing sprouts for the next 6 years.
