Dan Maynard
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Everything posted by Dan Maynard
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The official line is don't mix more than you will use in a month, ethanol in fuel is a potential problem in storage due to absorbing water. You can help by using E5 super, fuel additives, draining the saw. I've always gone for storing with full tank to reduce evaporation rather than draining, but also try not to leave saws too long between running. But I'd agree, using Aspen or Motomix will avoid any fuel problems, you'll save frustration starting, and save money fixing the saw.
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I know you can get 25m tracked which just allow towing under 3.5t, so guess 30m has got to be on a lorry.
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£10k !!! This was a close shave for this customer then, just landed on the tennis court which apparently she hates anyway. Ash in decline, root decay and then let go - I had offered to cut it down a couple of years ago.
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Not heard that, could be true in theory but equally never had a wire failure caused by twisting. I'd say I often twist, makes it easier to get all strands in, but not worried.
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I've done some tying bits in on conifer hedges (for screening) using sisal string, my logic being it's strong enough for one year and then rot away so no need to remove it and no plastic pollution. Would that work? You can get 6mm rope too.
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We almost never solder in factory automation, due to vibration concerns, but that is also almost never wet. Solder does quite a good job of keeping water out of the contact area. I've had good success in the past with crimps, wrapped over with self amalgamating tape. Done this since I was a teenager and heatshrink not so widely available (ie at work).
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Yeah sometimes, but not so great chewing the bark on a reduction, or if there are no decent stubs on a willow repollard.
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Tried that in the wrench, too much drag.
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Hey polyprop is good enough for Graeme McMahon, but no it's English Braids. Also have a Stein Omega 10mm which came with my PCW4000 kit, that's much less flexible and wouldn't use it for anything else.
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Start with ripping out conifer hedges to make way for landscaping or fencing. That'll show you him much green waste there is and put him off as next need a chipper and sides on the van.
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Toppers are all 1 stud, it's not so uncommon in small saws. Two studs is enough for a 3 foot bar, one should be ok on a 251.
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Related, there are a couple of small fields up the hill just outside our village which sold a couple of years ago. One of them has a porta cabin on, the chap has been living in presumably with the eventual aim of getting planning, or maybe just that he couldn't afford a house but could afford a field. Anyway, he started taking in green waste, fencing waste, bit of rubble which I guess is transit loads from here and there and makes a few quid. Not quite right but I was thinking at least that's stuff not being fly tipped on the fen somewhere. Has now been arrested for taking in 100 tonnes of waste plastic, and starting to burn it. Illegal unregistered waste operation. Turns out he was a bit of a nutter.
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I have a 10mm line in a bag with the rigging wrench and loopie, for brushing out small trees (most of what we have here) or something needs string on a reduction. Wrench is only rated to 70kg anyway so 10mm is plenty strong enough, nice and light, and not too draggy in the wrench to pull through. Think it was @Ty Korrigan who suggested using 10mm in it.
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I always read your replies, there's a lot to learn, so the input is appreciated.
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Didn't see this, yes for some reason Husqvarna chose sordin but Stihl chose 3M. The slot in the helmet is a euro standard.
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Finish / texture on Apex wrench's cam
Dan Maynard replied to attom's topic in SRT (Single Rope Technique)
I'm not an apex user, but an 'other mechanical device ' user, I think it'll wear smooth pretty quickly. Unless you're going to send it back, try it out on your least favourite rope for a bit. -
One thing I found in the Honda instructions is that you check the oil level without screwing the dipstick plug back in, so needs a touch more than I would have put in.
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If you buy some spark plugs from L&S too then you only need a couple of pulls to start the saw, the starter cord lasts for years. You can buy the Stihl part number for each saw as a 1m length of string. It costs a few pounds, so less than the whole reel but by the time you've bought a few you wish you'd bought the reel. I have a spool in the van since the cord broke on the stump grinder, the lad working for me now has his boot done up with it too. Comes in handy for all sorts.
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Bit of a thread revival but just been on regatta.com and they have some jackets 70% off. On the basis that all jackets have about the same resistance to a silky, I've bought a couple at £20 odd down from £70 to see how they fare.
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Can you really tell if they're in bunches of 2 or 3 from that photo though?
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What is the duty cycle on the electric winch? Petrol capstan winch can be run all day but small electric ones overheat pretty quick. Just thinking you might end up with two broken winches to mend, better to mend one capstan winch first ...
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To answer the original question, the value of the branches is zero and irrelevant, and the cuts can easily be tidied up to look decent. The most important thing is to work out a compromise of how you can live together with your neighbours, which almost certainly doesn't mean the trees having free reign to get as big as they would want to. At some point they will need cut, else being beech they will get huge.
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No, they work mostly in tension so more likely to fall his way.
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Also, where are you? In England at least he is entitled to cut back to the boundary - you don't like how that leaves the tree but he doesn't like having 30 feet of your tree over his garden.
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No. See other threads, I don't have it but tool free chain tensioning reported to be completely rubbish and definitely best avoided.
