Rough Hewn
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Everything posted by Rough Hewn
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I get at least 2-3 calls a year about apple trees. Yes it is good after milling and drying for years, but not many people want to invest £400 in milling and a large space in the garage for several years before a return. And the possibility it moulds or warps or gets eaten by worm. To flip the coin, Phone a few timber merchants/yards and get a quote on apple wood planks. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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I've got the stihl msa200 with a pair of ap300's and the fast charger. I love it. Just needs an off button and an oil light. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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Battery saw [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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Got a photo or two? What's the heartwood like?
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Remind me whereabouts you are Westphalian [emoji106]
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Try standard 3/8 or .404 [emoji106]
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It's all firewood unless someone can do something with it. Most arb trees from sites or gardens won't be bought by commercial mills as they are bound to have nails or other foreign bodies. I'd offer to Alaskan mill it for you but i don't mill ash anymore. Goes too hard too quick. But a bandsaw would piss it. Then you would have some great slabs. After a couple or four years stacked in a barn they would be worth a lot more than firewood. But it's time and effort. I mill for myself on quiet days and weekends. [emoji106]
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Have to agree about the balance though. A 661 is more balanced with a 25" but it's a waste of a 661. [emoji106]
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Shock horror!!! Bigger sprockets slows saws down???? [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji3] In a while we'll realise the timing difference in running a bigger bar is negligible. [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji848][emoji3][emoji106][emoji106]
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This guy Does many interesting comparison videos. (Much better than mine)[emoji12] Interesting to notice both saws slowed with an 8 pin sprocket[emoji848]
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Thanks avantgardener and everyone else. I have to show tickets nearly every week. Certificates sometimes too. [emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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It's one site of several for a job. The others are clean. Everyone's got anti stab gloves and you go slow. No trips or falls. Don't touch the ground. It's that time of year, works only just started getting busy last couple of weeks for arb work. Keeps four of us in work for a while. But yes, if it wasn't necessary I'd have swerved.
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Nastiest job I've ever done. Junkie bridge. [emoji51][emoji51][emoji51]
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Are there owl pellets below? As barn owls commonly nest elsewhere to feeding. Often a huge pile of owl shit will be from a feeding place the bird feels safe. Not necessarily a nest for breeding. But it is classified as habitat. [emoji106]
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You wish [emoji12][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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When I was learning to drive, both my instructors swore blind I wouldn't be allowed to tow any form of trailer without b+e. Put my license code into gov website, 750kg unbraked is fine. Still confused about hse dbh limits for felling. Anyone here work for the nptc who could explain?
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Climber looking for weekend work Manchester, Sheffield & Derbyshire area
Rough Hewn replied to Aaron19's topic in Employment
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@wonky what's that German guy who times different saws with different sprockets and bars on YouTube?
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Good question Joe, If the log is 8" there will be no discernible difference, both will cut fast. A 24" log is different, As both saws max out at 13.5k However the drag introduced will slow both saws to "in the wood speed" Yes obviously the 661 has more torque for bigger wood. But who puts a 25" bar on a 661? I just don't get why a lot of people are obsessed with small bars on saws. Time your cuts! You might realise as I did that things on paper are not always correct in the real world. If it was all about power and short bars we'd all be running 880s with 17" bars. What you want to lug about all day is your choice. I'm getting older so my preferred saw head is as light as possible. [emoji106]
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Different types of power output, Rpm and torque: Low throw, wider but thinner piston head for decreasing the inertia. So higher rpm is achieveable, but torque is sacrificed. Deep throw, wide but thicker piston head for longer power stroke, Lower rpm more torque. Sprockets are gearing, if you don't have the torque it'll cut slower than a smaller sprocket, as well as bogging much easier. Bar and chain gauge pitch and type, Top plate angle, hook, gully and side tooth as well as depth gauges set at correct depths correlating to the size, density and MC of the wood you are cutting. As previous members have said, It's a balancing act between all these factors, and many others. And that's just the basics of cross cutting. [emoji12][emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]
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I'm not trying to show you up mike, Only interested in open shared debate about saws. Everyone has their own subjective opinions on saws. I.e.: husky/stihl debate If I'm missing something basic about saws, I'm all ears. My point is that there are many variables in wood cutting. Just because you have a bigger engine and smaller bar it doesn't mean it will always cut faster. That's all. [emoji3][emoji106]
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There is a limit to how fast a saw will cut. I'm on lunch now but I'll put up something later. [emoji106]
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[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Have you read the advanced chain sharpening thread? [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23] Started in 2007 chum. I run big saws every week. I've used nearly every modern chainsaw produced by husky and stihl. And a lot of dinosaws too. Have a look through my hundreds of posts at my work. Maybe it's you who isn't grasping the concepts I'm putting forward. [emoji848][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]
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Cnuts.
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My 661 outcuts my 880 on 36" bar Look at the rpm and torque. I use big saws every week. [emoji23][emoji12][emoji106]
