lux
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Everything posted by lux
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I have an ifor 12x6 tipper with high sides. Has the 8 foot ramps under the tipper. Takes a load very well and tows nicely. The tipper is strong too. I had a custom cover made that goes over the top and extends down the high sides so it can also be used for chipping into without dust and chip escaping. My only real issue is its a big trailer and accessing some driveways or trying to find somewhere to park it on or near site can be tricky or simply a non starter. Cant fault the build quality.
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I agree. Remove and replace. It will look awful reduced. Have the stump ground out , improve the soil and plant something in its place that you can train to the size and shape you want and is right for the space so if you wish you can look after yourself in the future.
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Only used the stihl which was a decent enough saw. My only observation about the 2511 and other echo top handles is the build quality / robustness. I've seen several with missing covers leaving exposed wiring and when the 2511 launched there were pictures of people drilling the plastics to cable tie them on to prevent this. Personally that puts me off buying one although I can't comment on cutting performance as I haven't used an echo top handle. I do rate some of their ground saws as I like their simplicity and lack of auto tune or equivalent.
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Always hard to tell from photos and you will always get a mixed response. From the pics probably yes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't order a boom as its you inspecting it and you climbing it. I've been in a similar situation quoting on a large larch next to a house that showed accelerating signs of decay, quite possibly phytophthora. It required a 30 metre lift and that was about £800 quid for the day. The customer concerned was driven by price and obtaining the cheapest quote. She found someone who climbed and dismantled it. Did they get lucky or was it not as decayed as suspected ? I won't know. The main thing is you need to feel comfortable doing it. If you don't and they will suck up the added cost crack on with the boom. Don't risk what you aren't comfortable with. I hope the comments are of some use. Best of luck and let us know the outcome.
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Can anyone please help with this serious accident?
lux replied to Noggin1988's topic in General chat
In relation to phcb92 comments about inspecting post incident; Someone removed the decay from the tree after it fell described as "with surgical precision" during the court case and reported in the local paper. I believe this prevented much analysis of it. The main argument revolved around whether the LA furnished the contractor with the appropriate maps to survey this tree and if it was indeed surveyed or not. In any case the outcome was that the LA's cycle of inspection was inadequate regardless of of if the tree was or wasn't inspected /inspected adequately so the buck stops with them. The plaintiff was the only party on the bus as I understand it so no one else will be coming forward for compensation etc. Interesting case and certainly will cause many LA's to revisit their policies and survey schedules no doubt. -
Sithl ms200t / 200tc. Best small ground saws ever made ;p.
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Have a look through the YouTube channel from the chainsaw guy. Seem to remember him refurbishing large bars and doing it on a machine. Might be useful. He's pretty skilful at it.
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Yeah it looks rubbish.... Yeah it's not the best for the tree in the long run But it's business. I agree that you can advise a customer as best you can about their tree but if they want it reduced to a hat stand, well it's their tree and its business so the job gets done. No you won't drive past it and admire your skilful reduction work but you will soon be on to a customer who does want that. Some people just don't see or value trees the same way and as professionally as you can be you advise them it won't make any difference. I wouldn't turn the work away though.
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Not used the 661 or 390/395 but I love my 660 that I use a 36" bar on. Prefer it to using the 880 as it's less cumbersome. Also have a mint 064 that I usually run on a 20" and sometimes a 25" bar. Peach of a saw. I'm hoping they last well as I prefer them to the newer saws. That said the 441 has been great. Both Husqvarna and stihl seem less reliable with more electronics. Go for whichever you have a better dealer back up on. Most shops around my way are dropping or cutting back on husqvarna sales because they simply have less margin in the sale.
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Skylotec is a good harness. They all have pros and cons. Good fit is the key. Can't speak for other dealers but honey brothers will let you try the harness from a rope they have set up in one of the stores at the shop.
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Stihl for me as well. I think they hold an edge better and get a few more sharpens out of them compared to oregon.
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Amazon's are just a fantastic vehicle. Ultra reliable.
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The Amazon every time. Stuff the fuel costs.
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What an epic load of junk .....
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I know someone who bought a couple. First one was left over from the euro tunnel excavations. Horrid to drive, woefully slow although carried a decent weight on the back. No idea how available parts are. I wouldn't buy one but each to their own.
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Thanks fastrac. So are toyota able to issue a new plate for a fee ? Is this across all their network or just your local dealer ?
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My 3 litre manual tows a 12x6 ifor tipper without any issues. Can anyone say what's involved in getting them plated to 3.5 from 2.8 tonnes. ? Are any modifications required ? Never have had a convincing definitive answer as to why these pick ups are not rated to 3.5 in the first place.
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Well at least Mr Bolam didn't waste any.........
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I use two drills Mainly a 4 speed sapphire in a heavy press. Lowest gear and it generates huge torque. Happily glides through 300 year old beams. Drills RSJ's etc And also a 3 phase Gima gear driven pillar drill although that's huge over kill for most work but will drill anything. I don't use it often. You need a drill that generates good torque and power on a low low speed setting. Too high in rpm is a pain and makes accuracy tricky. Make sure everything is braced well. Spend your money on a good bit and it will be hugely worth it. I like the dewalt bits as they are good value and quality. They sharpen well, quenching to keep the temper is important. I'm usually drilling 18 to 20 cm deep with the 92mm bit. Let me know if you need any help.
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Forstner bits will leave a flat bottom in the hole anyway.
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I use DeWalt Forstner bits. Often use a 92mm bit on reclaimed oak beams that are like concrete. Cuts through lovely and you can put a decent edge back on them with a flat file. Can't fault them. Think they only cost £36 new and delivered. They can get hot cutting the old dry timbers so quench them during use to keep the cutting edges tempered. Like others have mentioned, don't be tempted by cheap bits. The difference is night and day, just don't waste time and money on them.
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Buy a stihl ......... It's bloody annoying that whatever make you buy they have issues now. Too many bloody electrics etc. Credit to echo for staying a bit more old school but they seem flimsy in construction and lack performance in comparison. Can someone please get back to making good old fashioned saws that don't fall apart and actually start and run without fuss......
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I know that honey brothers have shipped to NZ. Was surprised it wasn't that expensive and was quick. A friend of mine shipped out a husky saw as they are about half the price here compared to NZ. Not sure about import duty. Would have to google that one. Hope that helps.
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Had a look at them at the apf. Can't comment on its operation but the metal work, especially the chute , was thin not nearly welded. Couldn't see it lasting long before repairs were required.
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Where abouts in Surrey. Pics and measurements would be useful. Thanks.
