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Ive got some large bits of spalted beech I was going to sell as turning blanks. Currently in large rounds some are 3ft across. Gave some to a mate for turning and have a pile left to sell. Based Haslemere on the Surrey / West Sussex border. Prob too far for you but can load this end with a machine onto trailer etc. If you want pictures of any of it let me know.

Anyone got knowledge of sourcing a new hydraulic pump for a Danequip / dosko stump grinder? Spoke to Danequip today and the replacement pump was eye wateringly expensive. Thought Id see if anyone knew what pump it is or if they have sourced a replacement before I get around to picking it up with the forklift to look for part numbers etc Cheers

What do you want it to do / use it for? There's a big difference between having a commercial body version and a car like version. New defender comes in both formats too as well I think Is it a personal purchase or one through the company If its a business purchase just get the commercial one , reclaim the VAT and I really don't think it will matter which of them you buy, they will all be good cars. I struggle to see the point of the commercial bodied ones tbh. better off with a decent pickup.

I could drive around fine thanks. I seem to remember cruising past your stuck ranger then driving around the bit you got your avant stuck in trying to tow you out without getting stuck … I’d say they are pretty good tyres 😉😂 and yes the Eder winch is a fine thing. Was using it on Friday winch out some decent sized windblown in the woods. Very handy tool.

If you reshape it , heat it with the oxy torch very localised to the 'mushroomed' area. Introducing any colours that spread could do more harm than good. Quenching after heat will harden it but its a striking tool so you will want to temper it as well. Probably 2-3 cycles of tempering. If you dont know what colours you are looking for at the quenching stage take it to non magnetic and you will be in the ball park. Personally I would just leave the deformation, if its on the original handle still, the head is part of the story / history of it.

Running Maxis Bighorn M/T currently. Pleased with them so far and very good value. Noisy on the road as you would expect but give more wet rd grip than my BFG KO2 A/T did. I think I will buy a second set of wheels and run AT again for the spring and summer .... if it ever comes ..

Didn’t look for a specific size but these guys stock hickory. Try them.

Camberley is a bit far from both me and also the job but had a look anyway. Seems they just have normal chippers for hire. The hunt continues

Its already delayed because of the imposed restriction, was hoping to do it one day week commencing 18th

Hire request for a narrow access job I have a job in Cobham. Out of area for me but a nice days work in pocket of council woodlands in the town centre. Conservation area job, permissions have been granted but with some restrictions around access / waste removal.(Original plan was for habitat piles but council have forbidden that) The woods is completely encircled by other properties, chip can be sprayed in the woods but my chipper is too big to get in there. I have had no joy with hire companies on finding anything narrow access that will still chip 4 inch branches. Anything bigger I will remove as logs. Does anyone in that area have a CS100 or other decent narrow access chipper that will cope with chipping up to 4 inch branches. Happy to hire just the chipper or with operator if that suits you better. Thanks in advance

I think that’s a good idea mate. It’s one of those things that until you’ve done them you have no idea what a pain they can be. Oak in particular can really bite you Bigbeech has a nice little kiln set up down the rd. you could send your customer to him to dry the board. I’d imagine 3 weeks or so in the kiln. He’s a good bloke and knows his onions.

Are they going indoors ??? Bolting them when green won't stop them moving, they will snap and pull bolts or the treads will split. They will twist steel plate when they move as well. its quite phenomenal what green oak will move as it settles. Budget for some thicknesses blades. my treads rinsed through the blades. He will be looking at reducing them in thickness by 20 to 30 percent to get them flat when dried. do it evenly from both sides so the amount of material removed from either side is the same , they will likely move again if not as the moisture will pull out of the board at an uneven rate on either side. Like I said earlier, I started at 75mm to achieve a finish of 50mm when dried. that was only just possible on a couple of the treads by a whisker.. Here's the staircase we built in my (still ongoing) self build. The treads have stainless rods internally that cantilever into the wall. I milled that oak 6 years prior and during the thicknessing process it still 'released' and moved more. The treads are 1000mm wide, I think the going was 285mm.

I agree, that board is going to move a lot and it won't be uniform in its movement either because of the features in it. Its got great potential but there's a huge amount of work in that board to resemble anything vaguely finished. Green boards like that I just mill my own and dry them, I only buy dry timber so that's the only pricing I have to go by. My own milled boards I just keep for myself. They are bloody expensive now even when only air dried but sometimes I just dont have what I need milled or dried. If they have been kilned or twice kilned to get the moisture right for furniture etc they cost an arm and a leg at our local mills

Not just the size of the board. Also the grade of it. It’s certainly a nice board in his picture. I suspect it will move a fair bit around some of those features and require some serious thicknessing to flatten out when dry but that’s another matter. I’m sure Doobin will share some dimensions. Fair size stick on the trailer in his picture. No chance you’d buy it at that price in the mills around our neck of the woods, albeit they don’t sell green boards as far as I know.

Maybe there is a fair regional difference in pricing on boards. Last one I bought was 16ft long about 800 wide I think and 65mm thick. that cost me about 375 inc vat at Wests if I remember correctly.

If you were buying that board at WL West or English Woodlands both near Doobin and myself, a board like that air dried for 2 years would be around £400 plus vat with that character in it. Maybe 250 is fair all round if he's got to kiln it or wait a fair while to use it.

Nice looking board, £250 is pretty cheap even if it is green. He won't get many treads from one board, hopefully he will be back for one or 2 more 😀 I think I used 3 boards from a similar size trunk I milled to make my stair treads. Milled at 75mm for a finished thickness of 50mm with an 8mm steel plate under each one. Single stringer so needed to be stiff and I put hidden cantilevers into the treads to put into the wall. Think I air dried mine for 6 years in the barn. pick sticked and weighed down. PVA on the ends and still got some wicked movement in the boards Oak can be a cruel old mistress at times ..........

Nice chap he was too, much like open spaceman, id only met him a few times at shows and had a natter. He was still teaching apprentices until not so long ago I believe. Well respected man from what I know.

One of my crosspein forging hammers. Same as the one in the pic it’s round in profile for spreading metal.

Nope, that would be a hot set or a hot cut tool, most commonly it would be slotted into the hardy , you do get hot cut chisels which basically look like a hammer because they have a handle, the handle is merely there to place the chisel head on the hot metal accurately before striking it. Neither end of this is suitable for cutting, one end is clearly a cross pein and the other can't be made out too well.

Ill go for some sort of heavy foundry / forging type work

When you make representation to the council keep it factual. Emotional comments re keeping the tree will be disregarded. Have a look at national and local guidelines on TPO’s and select the most relevant in your circumstances. Any development, particularly if it’s dividing down a plot for houses will have a Tree report so there maybe two bites of the cherry should that be the intention of the developer. I think the majority of us would be concerned if a neighbouring plot was up ( potentially) for development

This thread kickstarted a put off mini project. Found a vintage 4 1/2 lb Hultafors Bruk axe head in the barn when we moved here about 8 yrs ago. I’ve just Restored the head correcting the primary and secondary bevels. I made the handle from locally milled Ash , locally milled Laburnum for the cross wedge and palm