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trigger_andy

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Everything posted by trigger_andy

  1. That actually looks more like rot I suppose, Ive certainly never milled any oak that far gone. Do find there is a market for that?
  2. Well, will be interesting to see what it looks like milled. Do you think it will have actual rot pockets or just be 'brown'? And I thought the brown came from a fungus? Not rot?
  3. Nice. [emoji4] Much call for Cherry down your way? You 'brown Oak' certainly seems different than the 'brown oak' IO get up here. Will be interesting to see what that looks like milled. To me that looks more like rot setting in. Most of the Oak my way looks like this.
  4. What do you mean gone? Is all the logs now sold?
  5. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1140944026340834
  6. You mention its Oak from the middle of the forest, or at least not near the edges so I cant really see metal being an issue? You also asked for Road-side prices so I assume you mean the farmers getting it to the road-side for you? If its road-side, straight, not rotten and no shake then Id chance my arm at £120 a ton for the bits you mentioned that will be straight. For the other bits Id offer him, as Rough said, £40-70 a ton. 1, to keep him sweet with a chance of getting first refusal on any more thats coming out at a later date and 2, You'll maybe be able to mill some bits out of it, mantles etc that will soon pay for itself and leave you with a bunch of nice firewood. Its all a case of supply and demand. If you really want some Oak and this lot is clean then maybe bump your prices up a bit. If you're not that fussed then chance your arm at a lower price.
  7. Because he's a domestic cleaner and does not have a clue as to what he's talking about.
  8. Common Uses: Boxes, pallets, crates, plywood, framing, and other construction purposes. Sounds about the same kind of quality as Spruce?
  9. Did you pack the ladder out all along its length or just support it at the ends? I tended to have at least 4 points of contact between the log and ladder then tested the gaps to see if there was any movement. If there was more packing and wedges went in. Some slats of wood screwed down with long wood screws are then needed to secure the ladder to the log obviously on the rungs and below the flush of where your Mill will slide along. Just remember to set your first cut below the depth of where your deepest screws are. I found that out the hard way.
  10. That is a cracking piece of Cherry! I know what you mean about the resin.
  11. Cheers, thats exactly the price I had in mind as well. These will be 20-30" Diameter. He's made no bones about them being felled for ADB.
  12. What are folk paying these days for Ash Saw Logs? Ive been offered die straight and very clean Ash logs but would be interested in what I should expect to pay?
  13. Leslie would have it knocked out for £500
  14. Cough cough again, I must have caught Covid .
  15. Have you tried over-torquing? Its not gonna damage anything over a few passes and will eliminate torque being an issue. Keep in mind the Ripper Blades are not welded square and slightly shorter on one of the faces to keep them running true. I slightly over-torque my Rippers. The manufacturers torque is more of a guide than a maximum setting. Sounds like you've had issues setting this mill up from the outset. Id be starting there to be honest. Sounds very much like you need someone who is handy mechanically to come and give you some pointers. How deep are the groves? They look minimal and will be planed out when the timber is dry anyway. As long as the mill is cutting accurately over the full length then Id not overly worry about a few groves. Its the constant vibration issues you've having Id be concerned about.
  16. I only have tarp over the tops of the bags of logs. So the air easily passes around all the logs in the vented bags. The bags on the outside are obviously a bit damp some days but soon dry in the wind. I’ll dig you out the picture. I think the idea is you load up for the coming season and exhaust the whole stores worth over the Winter, start of Spring you split more logs and load up the store once again. I think the guys 90 or something. They burn a lot of Birch and some softwood in Norway and between late winter/spring and the start of the next burning season the logs are all under 25% mc. Which was the ideal mc in almost all stove manuals till the zealots took over. 😁 Obviously we burn more hardwoods over here that need an additional years seasoning. Oak and Beech etc. In that case I’d keep them in the vented bags for a year before transferring them to the store.
  17. Sounds like you need some tarp. 🤣 No snow for us yet but raining like a S.O.B. When I build my log store it will have slatted doors for sure. Maybe even 4 sets. Load from one side and collect the dry from the other. Seen a pic in the Norwegian Wood book and really liked the design.
  18. I keep my logs off of the ground in vented 1.25m3 bags covered with tarp (till I build a suitable log store.) They are bone dry and not remotely damp.
  19. Sounds like a really bad idea to me. As others have mentioned damp walls and you’re only drying the outside of the log anyway. What’s the reason you can’t keep your logs dry outside of the house?
  20. Had a call come through asking for 10t of Elm to be milled a few days ago. Today he called and said he had a Gamie from a 20,000 acre sporting estate needing the tops lobbed off of 100 larch logs so they can be used to cross burns (streams) and set traps on them for catching Stoats and Weasels. An hour later two 4x4’s pull up with a trailer full of the first batch of logs. Funny how your day takes a turn for the unexpected. [emoji16]

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