Lazurus

If the crack becomes too much, cut it in half, turn the pieces over and fill with resin, a river table. There are no mistakes, just design opportunities

Was it half way through a DPF regen and never finished - had a similar problem on a diesel Focus as the DPF wasn't getting cleaned up enough - ended up having it bypassed and a remap, all's good now.

Having a clear out so up for grabs are 9 packs of dual truck wheels, 2" X 1 1/2 (4 per pack). 3 packs of single truck wheels 2" X 3/4" (4 per pack). 11 packs of axles to suit (4 per pack), and two loose axles. I purchased these from Rockler USA when my kids were littlies and now surplus to requirements... If interested pm me for more details, £30. Still available on Rockler website.

I have a couple of Oak boards I made a few years ago, again a vote for Titebond, never put a finish on them though as when they get marked or damaged I either run them through the planer or sand to bring back "as new"

Richardson's saw mill at Edingthorpe do fire wood, I use them for timber and they are a good ol Norfolk family firm. S.

http://www.awgb.co.uk/awgbforum/index.php/topic,3492.0/topicseen.html

Lichtenberg - yes I considered making one of these to, even bought the neon light transformer, then saw a couple of deaths reported in the press as a direct result of using one. Decided against it, however the results are stunning.

Sorry wasn't clear (lol) these are made by a guy called Heath KNUCKLES (real name) look him up. They are the inspiration for my attempts. The theory is simples, however to get a good finish in the initial casting (no bubbles) and to finish them to this standard is going to take some practice, cant take credit for these beauties.

I am having a sort out of my little used hollowing tools, listed on selling site as below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Robert-Sorby-Hollowing-Tool/273036711978?hash=item3f9241982a:g:OcwAAOSwMl9aZi8Y https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hamlet-Large-Hollowing-Tool/273036722118?hash=item3f9241bfc6:g:jJoAAOSwuShaZjCk https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Robert-Sorby-Hollowing-Tool/273036706379?hash=item3f9241824b:g:q~kAAOSwRTVaZiu0 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hamlet-Large-Hollowing-Tool/273036719609?hash=item3f9241b5f9:g:jrMAAOSwicpaZi-U

Well I an unable to decide what to do with this so it is off the lathe and awaiting a light bulb moment. I am now going to have a bash at some resin and burr spheres. Onward.......

When I was a lad circa 1970......... Thankfully I outgrew that look...... Lol. I loved the 70`s

2010 Model with remote battery pack and charger. Batteries give a full day in the workshop, new filters and pre filters extension fitted to cable as shown. Selling due to upgrade. £75 plus £8 P&P

I have a large Australian burr mounted on the lathe which I have turned to round and balanced, it is 26" x 3" and weighs around 20 kilos. it is a nice piece of timber but I am stuck as to what to turn, platter, shallow bowl wall hanging? Suggestions welcome.

Oooh, yes please.

I am in Norfolk, happy to pay postage on suitable sizes, cheers.

Someone must have something sitting in their log pile/

I would say about 3" or so, picture attached of what I am trying to achieve.

Ta......

I want to experiment with a burr offcut embedded in resin and turned to a sphere. Finished size about that of a cricket ball so I am looking for a few small burr off cuts with which to start. Species not important but prefer dry timber without bark if anyone can help out. There are some cool videos on Youtoob showing the process and finished article. Stuart.

Steve I thought you were downsizing with the move?

That's a great start, try to get the walls thinner it will balance the look and help prevent cracking as it dries, if you can get down to a few mm`s the drying process can create some stunning warping. Alternatively heat in a microwave and gently bend it by hand - only a few seconds cooking though and wear gloves as they can heat up really quick when green. Great effort.

Have a look at my budget milling thread, not quiet as an electric, but economical.

I love this Forum, someone is always able to help..... Many thanks

My aging focus estate (2008) is cranking slowly so I suspect the battery is on its way out, still it has done 6 plus years so cannot grumble. Now there is stuff on line about having to use a "silver Calcium" type battery as opposed to the usual lead as the charging voltage has been increased. Obviously these are more expensive, well they would be wouldn't they!!! Anyone had similar issues when replacing there battery? Apparently using the standard type causes major issues with over charging or the charging circuit being fried. Then there is the sales pitch from other manufacturers as below S. Silver Calcium Batteries for Ford Vehicles Information regarding the use of Silver Calcium Batteries Ford introduced silver calcium batteries worldwide for their vehicles in 1997 together with a smart charging system. They told their dealers that these batteries must be replaced only with other silver-calcium batteries as the life of normal lead antimony batteries would be drastically reduced if these were used for replacement. This of course, implies that Yuasa batteries must not be used. Yuasa calcium and calcium/calcium batteries can be 
used on all Ford vehicles giving a life that is at least as 
good as recommended Ford replacement batteries in the UK market. Yuasa automotive batteries are equally suitable for Ford vehicles made before 1997. Calcium and Calcium/Calcium batteries are used by all major vehicle manufacturers as they are maintenance free under normal operating conditions. In addition within the UK, no extremes of climatic temperature are experienced and water loss is not an issue for any Yuasa battery. Yuasa has had many years of supplying these batteries to the aftermarket since the introduction of Ford silver calcium batteries back in 1997. Grids are still made of Lead. Typically less than 0.1% of calcium is needed to give strength (note calcium is added to the grid alloy in both calcium and hybrid batteries). Some customers think that calcium batteries are completely different to lead acid batteries, but they just represent another generation of the lead acid battery. Ford gave the following reasons for using only silver calcium batteries in their recent cars, but Yuasa automotive batteries with their modern technology more than meet the specification. Charge Voltage tolerance increased from 14.4V to 14.8V Yuasa calcium and calcium/calcium offer the same tolerance to this increase in charging voltage within the UK market Cold cranking power increased by approximately 10% Yuasa batteries generally give better starting performance than the batteries fitted by the vehicle manufacturers Average battery life has increased to about 6 years in the UK Market due to a combination of battery technology and improved car electrical systems. In summary, you can fit a Yuasa battery to any Ford car (i.e. recommended catalogue model fitment) with the complete assurance that it will give first time starting and trouble free motoring. This bulletin should help you to reply to customers who are concerned about using a Yuasa battery to replace a Ford silver-calcium battery.

Cool fence to!