Paul in the woods

I'm quite far from Liskard but I'll keep them in mind if I'm down that way. I'm currently trying to visit various local stove stockists to see what they have and what they think. On that note the dealer I mentioned earlier didn't like Esse at all and I've also seen mixed reviews. The Ironheart isn't really an option as I expect to spend a fair bit of time cooking on it and I'm not keen on the need for a heat screen. I'm not keen on the Rayburn 'look' either but I do want to be able to see the flames. Has anyone here actually got a Lohbrergh stove? They're closer to what I'd like but I'm struggling to find details on their efficiency. I'm also stuggling to find a way of comparing different stoves as there seems to be various ways to measure their efficiency.

Anyone seen the new Stihl compact cordless saw yet? I've finally tracked down a local supplier that's seen them and they seemed to think it was as good as the more expensive MSA 160.

I'm going to install a wood burning cooker in our kitchen and I'm currently looking at what's available. Although I have my own wood I'm after one that's as efficient as possible and one that's well built. I'm currently thinking of one that's just a cooker and not a water heater. A local stove installers today told me of these people: Wood Fired-Aga range cooker alternative, 3 oven, T3 Patented Now, I'm not a huge fan of the style but an 85% efficiency sounds pretty good. Cost is a bit eye watering and I'll need a twin wall flu fitted. Has anyone heard of them? Can anyone recommend anything else that's efficient and reliable I can compare it with? Thanks

BASC cetainly do: https://basc.org.uk/membersoffers/basc-motoring-services/

They need light to fruit well, perhaps thinning some of the branches and you could try "brutting". More pruning info on the RHS: https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=602

I thought it was more like at least 90% of ash will die meaning they're not sure how many will be resistant. I thought it was likely to be a much smaller percentage. Also, the signs are not always obvious are they? Some trees might seem fine for a few years and then die. If you need a wind break and you have a choice of thinning an ash tree or something else then I'd probably go for the ash now. That's my current plan for my mixed woodland, until something yet another serious tree disease spreads.

Like rural Devon then. I noticed the OX in the news today as well and it appears to be the sort of thing I'm after. I don't want a complex new car, or an unreliable old one and I need good ground clearance but not necessarily a full 4x4. The load capacity would be ideal for moving wood about as well.

Best to wait until the leaves have dropped.

You could start by having a link to in in your profile. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/profile.php?do=editprofile

Do you also love your food and stick your nose between people's legs? On a serious note we give our aging arthritic lab glucosamine tablets and I've often wonder about taking them meself.

I've used citric acid dissolved in water to clean my old auger bits and other tools. I've seen other people use it and you can make it up as weak or strong as you like, a strong hot mix will work quickly or a weaker, cold mix works overnight. When the rust is removed I rinse and give them a light oil. Plenty of info online about it.

Possibly a bit small if you intend to grow your trees on for more than a year but I'm trying jumbo roottrainers this year for trees and hedging. They have a 1 litre capacity and I've used the smaller ones for growing veg on with good results. Jumbo Rootrainer Set - Tildenet Ltd - Tildenet

I noted the batteries aren't interchangeable but I can't find much info about the saw. It looks very similar to the MSA 160 C-BQ which is getting a bit old now for cordless technology.

I've been looking at the Stihl cordless saws for coppicing, hedgelaying etc. I like the idea of a quiet saw and the fine bar and chain is appealing. I have a petrol saw for the larger stuff. On the downside forking out £400 for a saw, battery and charger has put me off. I've just noticed the MSA 120 C-BQ 'compact cordless' saw which includes a 3.2 ah battery and charger for £250 and it looks ideal. Anyone else seen them? Any views? Linky to saw: http://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/Compact-Cordless-System/Compact-cordless-chainsaw/273184-73582/MSA-120-C-BQ.aspx

Member details: http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/members/jamespepperpot.html Link to his site: Summerhill Woodwork

I've used fresh alder so know it goes bright orange on the surface and a sand will bring it back to a light wood. I hadn't considered spalting but I've just cut up a small log that's been outside for a couple of years. It has spalted and although a lovely mix of plain wood, orange and grey the wood is fairly soft so I'll bear that in mind. The floorboards would be on show but runners/rugs used to reduce wear (we have an excitable dog...). Boron is on the list of preservatives to consider. One question though, why does everyone suggest wide boards? I understand that 6" wide boards would be less work and can take more nails but surely a 3" board would warp/cup less? The trees aren't large, 12" DBH, so I'm not going to be able to cut large boards or quarter saw them. I also don't have any for of mill yet, just the need for boards and a couple of acres of alder that needs thinning/coppicing. It'll go for firewood anyway, so if I make a mess of the boards I'll not lose much. Tempted to try to carve a pair of clogs though.

The durability issue is mainly with regard to outdoor use isn't it? You can buy alder floorboards and I know alder is used for various things as my OH has a spinning wheel made out of alder and I've carved a few pieces from it. I know its a very wet wood though, hence my concerns about it moving about while seasoning.

I was actually thinking of going down to 85mm or so so I could slice the boards off a beam on a bench saw. I don't mind gaps or time spent nailing to be honest, it's a replacement for a chip boarded modern floor so not drafty.

And with all the wildlife where we are we'd have a couple of woodpeckers in after the worm. Thanks for the warning, I did know alder is susceptible to worm and I'm looking at preservatives. Ideally I want something that's not too toxic as it's for a bedroom floor.

My understanding of using Kania traps is you must use a tunnel to reduce the risk of catching non-target species. See details here: https://www.fourteenacre.co.uk/shop/kania-2000-trap/ I've also not had much success with my Kania trap. I've had far more success with BMI bodygrip traps and the Fineren box (went on a trapping course with him). https://www.fourteenacre.co.uk/shop/fineren-bodygrip-box-for-squirrels/ It's possible squirrels are put off if they see a dead squirrel sticking out of a trap so using a solid cover on a Kania trap may increase success. Fourteenacre also do a bulk offer on Fenn traps.

I have plenty of small diameter alder trees to log and I need some floorboards so... Has anyone used alder for floorboards? I am aware that although a hardwood alder is soft but the boards would be for a bedroom so should be ok. I'm considering narrow boards, 100mm or less, as I think these will easier to mill, season and lay and be more tolerant to warping etc. Now, how best to cut the boards to reduce warping? I've found alder seasons quickly so would it be possible to leave the timber in the round for a year before milling? I had also considered cutting into thick planks/beams to season and then cutting planks of them later. I.e. cutting a 90mm beam and then slicing my 90mm wide planks off it.

I saw this and thought in might be useful: Massive bill for council after Bristol couple win case over tree roots that bought down conservatory | Bristol Post

With hundreds of different species of eucalyptus I bet it's just an unusal one. Looking at Wiki there's a group known as stringybark which fits the bill. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eucalyptus#Bark possibly one of these: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stringybark

It looks like grey squirrel damage, yes. As to what they're after as far as I know no one knows for sure. Some say they're after the bark to eat whereas others suggest they strip bark as territory marking or simple boredom.

It's 5 provided you sell less than than 2. From the FC: "Up to 5 cubic metres in any calendar quarter (e.g., Jan to Mar, Apr to Jun, Jul to Sep and Oct to Dec), as long as no more than two cubic metres are sold." I know it doesn't apply to larch but I've wondered if you could pollard a tree first, then fell the trunk, as pollarding is exempt. Dean, I assume no other exemptions apply, such as the trees being in a garden? I'd also wonder if they could be felled under the disease exemption, any signs of Phytophthora ramorum?