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Paul in the woods

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Everything posted by Paul in the woods

  1. That's not quite right. I discussed the issue with Oregon and it turns out a couple of the cutters were outside the tolerances they could come up with. On closer inspection I noticed the chain was made from two sections, i.e. it had two joins. One section all the cutters were even to the naked eye and the other section they were not. I think there may have been some sort of problem at the end of the chain roll but don't doubt now it was original Oregon chain (I wasn't aware chains are often made to order and boxes hand written when I posted). I will also add that I received two replacement chains from Neil so am happy with their service and both those chains looked perfect to me. I posted the chain back to Oregon but have not heard anything since. I did take a number of photos but didn't think it was worth posting them up.
  2. I expect you can hold enough to split a log but if you apply for a explosive licence for shooting you can only use the powder for shooting/re-enactment. You could try phoning your local firearms licencing team, it would be fun to hear their response.
  3. Thanks you both for the suggestions. I am prone to keeping branches and logs that look interesting and might have a use one day. I shall be a bit more organised and keep some of the straighter lengths for future projects and any bits that might be good for turning.
  4. From the Telegraph: Ash dieback breakthrough as scientists learn to spot resistant trees - Telegraph And from Nature: Molecular markers for tolerance of European ash (Fraxinus excelsior) to dieback disease identified using Associative Transcriptomics : Scientific Reports It'll be interesting to see what the advice will be to those responsible for ash trees, is it best to leave the existing ones or think about replanting with resistant trees?
  5. Only 20 years! I think the only stuff I haven't got is good quality coppicable hazel in rotation. I've got 20 year old plants that have never been coppiced, old hedge bank trees, odd trees that I would guess are more than 50 years old and stools that were probably coppiced 50 year ago and are about 3' across at the base. I've also been advised to leave a few poles on the large old stools, or cut them over a couple of years. I'll cut a couple and see how I get on, watching out for hibernating critters as I gather there's a chance of animals in the stools?
  6. I assume you mean below 216v? Thanks for the details, I am talking to them about a few other concerns so I'll mention it when I next speak to them. It still puts me off buying anything with a large electrical demand at the moment though. With your FM16, do you find it works well with a blade/wedge at each end of the splitter?
  7. I'll try anything once. I'd love a small charcoal kiln but that'll have to wait. I'm happy to burn it provided there's not a better use. The slightly large poles can be used to make gate hurdles if they're straight enough and, apparently, morris staves. Funnily enough I was going to suggest milling as a bit of a joke, then when I had a good look round I discovered a few trees approx 20cm / 9" dbh - not huge but perhaps worth milling for curiosity if I ever need to fell them.
  8. I have a thousand other uses for the tractor, not just log splitting otherwise I'd have sorted a petrol splitter out by now. Hiring a processor might be an option but, at the moment, I'm producing small amounts of logs each week which could be split and stacked rather than piling up for several months.
  9. Electric is out as we live at the end of the power supply and the voltage fluctuates whenever we turn anything on! It would also be useful to use it where there's no electricity. Long term plan is to provide all our heating and cooking etc via wood burners so I'd like to process about 20m³ a year, possibly much more if chalara hits the large ash I have. Selling/haggling logs is a possibility v. long term. As I need a small tractor about the holding a PTO splitter seems logical and cheaper than a decent petrol splitter. I could wait until I have the finances for the tractor and PTO but I'd like to start building up the logs in my spare time and my OH would like to help. Plus I like the idea of getting something I can learn with so I get the most suitable PTO splitter for my needs.
  10. I've used a fair bit of hazel for bean poles etc but they're not going to be that thick, rather what I'd call normal coppice size (less than 10 years old). I have made a few good walking sticks from shoots growing up from large limbs, part of the old limb makes a decent round handle. But I can't think what would have been done with stuff that's logs size, well over 40 years old, apart from logs. I suppose in the days when coppice was worked then it wouldn't have been left so long to grow too large. Has anyone turned it? A few pieces I've split have a very good grain.
  11. I already have a good axe, several in fact, and the maul I have is also very good. However, as mentioned, it's not good for my arms. I don't want to invest in a petrol splitter if I'm going to get a PTO one eventually, hence looking at manual ones. I can cope with the slowness of a manual one although I'd rather have one that can take longer lengths.
  12. I know most of you will laugh at such an idea but I would like to get a manual log slitter to start off splitting logs for domestic use. I currently use a maul but that's not great on the old joints. I eventually plan to get a tractor mounted splitter when I sort out a tractor. Now there's plenty around but I can't find any that look robust enough and able to cope with some of the logs I have. The price isn't a problem but I'd like something that'll last. The best I can find is the Forest Master Duocut Manual log splitter ( Manual Hydraulic Log Splitter 10 Ton Wood Cutter Axe ) Does anyone know of anything that can cope with larger logs and has more force?
  13. I've cleaved a few thick stems but don't have a huge use for them. I do have some hedges to lay but being Devon hedgebanks will not need many stakes. How long does the hazel last in the ground? I a need for fencing takes but don't think hazel would last long?
  14. That's what I thought. Perhaps it's for hammering into a log, the spike goes into the log/bench and the flat bit down from the chisel end is used to hammer the thing into the log/bench?
  15. I keep reading hazel is too useful for firewood and I know well managed coppiced hazel has a myriad of uses but can anything useful be done with hazel stems that are 10+ cm DBH and often a bit misshapen? Apart from firewood or charcoal that is.
  16. I think you're confusing my reply, more legal gun ownership in the UK does not mean more deaths. I also wouldn't be surprised to find out there's more illegal firearms in circulation but there are proportionally less deaths, harder to prove that one as I doubt anyone has any real clue as to the number of illegal guns in circulation.
  17. I think you'll find legal gun ownership in the UK has risen over the last 20 years but gun crime involving legal firearm ownership has fallen, so not simples at all.
  18. Ditto, well somewhere in NW Devon. And there are places around here with quite a few trees.
  19. From the end user point of view I would rather have a cubic meter of ash than alder as alder is quite light when seasoned. I do love alder on an open fire though and cooking on it, it burns well if a little quick. I've also been processing a bit of it and it does cut and split easily unless the logs have been left on damp ground, they them seem to behave like a rubbery sponge.
  20. Yes, I have a little Echo CS-352ES, the chain it came with is an Oregon and I worked out it must be a VXL. So I ordered a direct replacement. I know when you start talking about 0.2 mm it sounds petty but the chain is only a slim one and the width of the cutters from one side to the other varies by about 15%. This didn't seem right, hence the question. I know I could just use it but if Oregon chains aren't out by this much something isn't right so I'll contact the seller. Can someone recommend a good place to buy chains, it's a 53 drive link chain so slightly harder to find than the more common 52s.
  21. I bought it from a shop via Amazon, I'd rather not say the shop's name until I've raised the issue with them directly. What worries me a little is that although it has the box the details are hand written on it. The chain does have Oregon stamped on it but I have read comments about fake chains.
  22. I can't get a good photo up today. The chain is an Oregon 91VXL-53.
  23. Yes, I seem to be caught between domestic and large scale companies. I'm not going to be growing 1,000s of trees but I don't want to spend a fortune and only end up with a few trees. I did notice these people, anyone used or heard of them? Tree Seed Online Ltd - Home Page
  24. I'm a fairly new to using chainsaws although I have done a simple course before buying a saw. On the course I was taught it was important for cutters to be the same length and the chain to be even when sharpening, which seems common sense. I've just purchased a new chain and I was surprised to notice the teeth are visibly uneven, one one side they are longer and narrower than the other side. The chain is a direct replacement so it's an Oregon 91VXL and the teeth on one side are over 0.5 mm longer and 0.2 mm narrower than the other side. My question is, is this a normal tolerance? For a chain with an RRP of £25 that claims "Advanced grind geometry • Improved out-of-box grind" it seems a bit sloppy. On the other hand I'm used to working with tolerances down to 0.01 mm so I might be bit fussy.
  25. Yes, I've found the fresher the better with most seeds (trees and veg etc). I'll collect the stuff I can but I'd like to grow a few more unusual ones and it's not always easy to collect local seed from some common trees as well. We've used Chiltern Seeds for veg so defiantly look at them for trees as well thanks.

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