Starscream

I like my petzl sequoia.. Hated the stein vega

Sounds like you've got your head screwed on and have done some considered research. All the best to you bud

Well you start with your CS 30/31 which is basic chainsaw handling/maintenance and felling small trees. Then you got the aerial bits CS38/39. This is your basic access of a tree, moving around it, aerial rescues and using a chainsaw in a tree. The next ones for Arb would be perhaps CS40 (pruning) and CS41(rigging/dismantling). They're good ones to have under your belt but I would advise becoming a more proficient climber so as to get the most out of them. Also I'd get a job in the industry before investing in that sort of kit! You can have all the shiny gear in the world but without a custom base they're useless!!

Hey, I'm a big fan of the stein x25 vent out stuff. I have the long sleeve and short sleeve tops in yellow and orange. I only use one or two oppos every now and then but was thinking about getting some for them.. Quite dear to be buying for a lot of people I suppose.

My pals a Royal Marine and will be finishing up same time as you, maybe 2019, not sure. He works with me on Saturdays and loves it. He says it's phys in the bag plus some cash at the end of it! You're probably fitter and stronger than me and most other blokes I know in this game. My mate will be 48 when he gets out you'll only be 40. I know climbers in their mid 50's. I'd give it a go mate.

Not intended to be unkind just worded it wrong! My pals coming up to his 22 years that's how I know, but forgive my terminology!

It's becoming a saturated market but I'm not gonna piss on your chips mate. It's my understanding that you'll get a resettlement handout and places like Kingswood training near me do MOD Arb packages where they train you in all of it; climbing, chipper etc etc. Not massively long so crack a course like that then get some experience in an Arb firm. Apply to be a brash monkey and work your way up (if you like it!)

Textbook..

Sequoia.. I'm a 32

Nice vid! You say it's aimed at the average joe with the average tree but your opening scene is up a tree with an 88!!!!

What an answer!!! Awesome bluebedouin!!

Hey, I re-read my post and I was prob a little harsh. Not getting much sleep, new baby and all that! Not your problem though so sorry dude. Lawn sand is used at a high rate (90g/pm2) to kill off moss and a low rate (35-50g/pm2) to just green up the grass. It also encourages finer grass species to come through and helps balance Ph levels in the soil which in turn can help to deter earth worm activity. The percentages vary from producer to producer but I think it's 3-4% iron and 3-4% nitrogen. We use it a lot as its relatively cheap compared to other 'weed and feeds' which can be in excess of £20-25 per 25kg but when we buy our sand in bulk I think we pay £6-7 per bag! Generic lawn feeds over here are packed with nitrogen which make the grass shoot up rapidly, but lawn sand is a lot slower due to the reduced nitrogen content, which, in turn, doesn't leave you having to mow every few days!! We apply with a rotary spreader but a drop spreader can be used. (Personally hate drop spreaders though as there is a fine line between overdosing an overlap or missing an overlap completely!)

What's the thatch layer like? Maybe scarify first? This will promote new growth as well by splicing the rizomes and stolons.

So, you're saying the OP has no common sense? And FYI lawn sand over here is a moss killer and lawn tonic which contains nitrogen, ferrous sulphate (iron) and potassium. The sand part is just a ballast to distribute the chemicals. It's not literally just sand. You yanks really don't give us much credit. Weeds are an ongoing battle regardless of soil type, they just differ in species. For instance if it's a dry alkaline soil Achillea (yarrow if you're common) will thrive. If it's a damp acidic lawn, moss will thrive. A regular regime of annual scarification, max. 4 times a year fertilisation with a selective herbicide, aeration and collecting grass clippings will produce a lush lawn. The OP wants to get one back to normal, not get his chemistry kit out. The answer - lawn sand, time and cutting high will get the desired result cost effectively.

Yeah you can eat the berries... Now I'm not sure if this was said for effect, but on a different forum I was in the understanding that the tree was coming down to make way for a mosque!! Same tree, same OP, different reason? I want the truth buddy, if it's coming down for a mosque im gonna strap myself to it.

What? A sharp rotary blade does not rip tear or shred lawns. To use a cylinder mower effectively the lawn will have to be like a bowling green. And also "check the ph level of the soil"? I doubt he's maintaining Kew Gardens mate. To the OP - lawn sand the area, this will kill any moss and encourage finer grass species to come through. It will green the lawn up nicely too and as the nitrogen level is low it won't grow abnormally fast. Leave the lawn for a while and then keep it on a high cut; this keeps weeds and moss at bay and keeps more of the grass plant to photosynthesise resulting in a more green, drought tolerant lawn.

Mick Dempsey had a thread about this with something he done similar. I think it's easier for the ground staff to remove?

Yep chestnuts here

Fair point.. But what about the carb? Won't it be pumping harder than its supposed to? I may have misinterpreted the whole subject as I'm not too au fait with the technicals, but wouldn't it be a bit like whacking a turbo on a car but not upgrading the clutch and gear box?

Ah ok, very interesting. So, if for instance I had my MS461 ported, would it pull a longer bar? One thing though, will this not stress other components and reduce the lifespan of the saw?

3rd time. I'd like to see someone pilot it's pruning to BS3998 though!

Unfortunately I'm gonna be the idiot who has to ask... What is porting?

Did the police recover it? What was it?

Ok fair one. Cheers mate I'll get another tomorrow

Even though I cleaned it? If it's still flooded I don't want to put another plug in it to get the same result