Kevm
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Everything posted by Kevm
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The saw on the right keeps bogging down, is that the saw or the user? I think if he didn't lean on it so much it would cut quicker.
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A question for the arb-digger collective. On the previous page Shillo posted a picture of a Volvo pulling a tree out of a river with the blade a metre up in the air, but why was he working that way round? I only have a limited experience of mini diggers but I always try and work over the blade as it is much more stable with it down and I have heard that it's not good for the track motors to have all the load on them like in that pic. What do the experts think/do?
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I think you are confusing litres and galls as i doubt you will get 30-40 gallons out of a compact tractor.
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Can't help with ivy clearance mr Murray but I do think your avatar pic is superb.
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Is that .325 in the pic for comparison? It's massive. What HP. is the motor?
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For new, local, I recommend - Strathbogie
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That coil does look a bit suspect, if it has been outside then water would run down the plug wire and if not perfectly sealed, get inside. I use one of these plug testers, eBay item number: 401133684665 When it stops, stick the plug tester on and you know straight away if it's a lack of spark.
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Didn't even see a single stone there anywhere, no string, plastic, crisp packets, lumps of timber or half breezeblocks. Give it a proper test - Bob!
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tricks for removal of rust and grim from fuel tank?
Kevm replied to Suffolk-Matt's topic in Maintenance help
I always use granite chips to get the worst out, good wash out and dry well and then POR15 - no more problems. Put the POR15 back in the tin and you can use whats left on another tank. -
Is there a separate hyd. Oil tank or is it common to the back axle? If the hyd. Oil comes from the axle/transmission then the metal particles are probably coming from there. The distrubution valve you mentioned is there to make sure the steering always gets priority and if the steering sometimes loads up then it suggests a lack of pressure. Maybe some of those metal bits have got in a relief valve somewhere, I would not think its a pump problem because they are either good all the time or worn out. You could try changing the oil and filters, see if you cane flush out some of those bits.
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Swan vestas
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I would try an epoxy plastic metal type repair, I use JB weld but there are plenty of others. I guess that roller extends out over where the bit is missing, which is going to put a fair load on it you would need to build up a big triangle of JB weld going back across to the stud/post and down into that corner. You would need to put up a "fence" of duct tape or something till the stuff went off then file the track flat after, thats all assuming nothing fits into that space.
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No, nothing to do with me, just have a walk round sometimes and it does look bad, especially when dogs drag the sleeves out and drop chewed off bits about.
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Are tree protectors bio-degradable? there is a piece planted near me about ten years ago which has not seen much maintenance and the tree protectors have all blown off and piled up, then dogs pick them up, chew them and scatter the bits about which doesn't look very good. Should I be concerned or just ignore it.
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wouldn't it be easier to put a wood blade on a concrete saw.
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Are there more ticks about because of the milder winters?
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If you think an ebay item looks a bit dodgy from the photo - copy the photo link, open google and click on image then click on the little camera icon in the box and paste the image link in. It's amazing how many times you find that exact same photo has been used before
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I bought one of those "intenz" bars once - it was cr*p and I threw it away long before it was worn. But I wonder if you could just drill holes in one and use the normal screw tensioner
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So is that an alloy head? if so you will have to be real careful to keep the drill in the middle. I suggest getting a good quality small drill like 3mm (dormer is good) and then take your time centre popping the stud and drilling the first couple of mil in the centre only then can you give it some beans. You will be able to tell when the drill breaks through the end of the stud. Then use progressivly bigger drils, you can buy left hand drills - I have some just for this sort of job. It is really critical that you stay in the centre though. Is it a metric thread or UNC? get a tap to clean it up after. Oh! and if you can get someone to lean in the top, keep the drill square and just provide a gentle push on the drill it will be much easier.
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Hydraulic guillotine style firewood processors
Kevm replied to tcfengineering's topic in Firewood forum
I made one for chopping up building waste timber, it's very slow but has never been defeated by nails, door hinges, locks or even railway sleepers. It's not a subsitute for a log splitter but great for anything that potentialy has metal in it. I have used it for log splitting and if the really knotty tough stuff wont split it just cuts it. If you were using only one cylinder and wanted speed you would need a lot of power.
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I have a Yanmar Bo8 (.8t) and a homemade grab, it will lift sticks 15" dia and 10' long with ease, but you cant slew it round much or it will fall over
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What were you cutting with the disc at 0.37?
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I watched 3 min of that and got bored - if I couldn't split stuff easier and quicker than that I would just buy heating oil
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Yeah, I shouldn't have used the word hard that's not what you want - tough is good and if you can get a bit of the wear plates off JCB, loading shovel, front loader buckets that is perfect but mine is just a bit of mild steel and it is good enough for splitting wood.
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Do you really need a super hard metal for the wedge? - I just used a piece of 20mm plate.
