HDAV

Recently got a second powerhead for my kombi a 4mix km90 and the drive shaft drops out, now it’s not a new machine by any stretch but in good running order apart from the drive shaft so I ordered a new plastic bush for £3 and set about replacing it..... Stihl sell the whole driveshaft with the plastic bushing already fitted for £35 but the shaft looks fine just the plastic worn... How does no 5 fit onto no 2?

Bale twin ? just keep it a different colour to the twine holding up your strides.

If I put a lot of grease in I noticed it coming out the head and making a right mess, little and often seems to work and good spray on the outside of the blades (especially in damp foliage) there is probably a thread adapter you you can buy to from the M8? Bolt to a grease nipple.

If you’re rounding them off you’re using the wrong spanner..... no rounding here and the cutter is probably 10 year old by now, the cheap torx bit I bought was rubbish and it rounded, hence using a ring spanner. i dont do a lot, heavy domestic user not pro, and I give the hedge cutter head a squidge after every use, but is probably only getting used 5-10 days a year I like the fact the stihl tube screws into the housing it’s much smaller to carry doesn’t make a mess. if using every day then the nipples can make sense but then so does paying a few £ to have them fitted....can’t help thinking there is probably a good reason stihl didn’t in the factory...could be just to sell grease tubes...

I found the videos these guys do really useful I still don’t understand them fully (or much at all) but much more than I did, you can then research the specific once you know what you should be looking for.

Is it that much faff to carry a spanner? Any engineering shop would drill and tap the bung (for a drink) fit a standard M6 thread nipple. but that means carryig a grease gun not just a stihl grease tube. my grease gun is a messy sticky leaky thing I avoid using as much as I can, the stihl tooth paste tube is great clean easy, just needs a spanner to open the plug.

Here is a semi permant bonfire just to the left of the shot so no worries there, also I don’t have to to tractor and flat is a great idea but would take longer (even with a loader) to get a tractor at the hedge than to cut it with all. Chain saw. Both sides have grown out at yeast 2 feet so I think i’lol start taking 12” off the far side and see what happens. There is a beech hedge in a similar state when is best to cut a beech back hard? I know they are trimmed in late summer autum as a rule. looks like I might just have time..... https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=83

OK great my thought was to leave the inside face as it’s better and cut the outside back hard soon so it can regrow this season. it has previously been cut back hard and this thick woody broth it the hedge trimmers limit. thinking of putting an ove size bar on chain saw just for the task. What size saw to run 24” bar and what chain or doesn’t it matter cutting lots of 1-2” branches at once instead of 20” limbs?

Need some advice on some old and well established but close to causing issues hedges. Long and complicated story but I was asked by my mum to cut some hedges and have been doing so for a couple of years. They were once well tended but were allowed to get out of hand and are being kept under control just about now. problem is they are now 5’ deep and keep spreading I’m thinking he answer is to cut them back 12” -18” plus and let them regrow as now going any deeper is too thick for a hedge cutter, would a chainsaw be the answer? The far end it the worst the side you see is a veg patch beyond is a paddock and he paddock side in parts it’s so deep even a long reach hedge cutter from both sides struggles my thinking is to cut the paddock side right back? Also run a chain saw across the top to level it off and bring it down to shoulder height. Out of shot to the left is a beech hedge again now 5’ deep in parts as it was left in trimmmed for a number of years and has put on thick tough growth. This is now blocking he path and while neat it is too big.

Interesting theory, but if you can get a nice property with nice grounds for the price of a modest semi a month then good on you! Are you doing the work yourself?

I'm trying to source a tractor for a different project and it's a minefeild good luck thefarmingforum are incredibly helpful and patient with people like me who nothing about tractors. Tractors aren't cheap scarily so! I'm look at 20-30+ year old machines! With half your budget and they are out there but a solid workhorse a money pit who knows!

No idea if it's any good for what you need but was looking at this earlier https://classifieds.thefarmingforum.co.uk/listing/valtra-8050-farm-tractors-14605 what I have found is good tractors aren't cheap, farmers don't sell good tractors, tractors are mind boggling spec wise, also does forestry come under he ag exemptions for tachos, o liscence, etc?

Worth giving them a call we ordered and had delivery of smaller order before don't think it was over £1k but was a few hundred! It was classed as retail sale rather than wholesale delivery was pretty reasonable I think. Just checked and the shrubs were delivered were of good quality and delivery reasonable to the location, better quality than the first more expensive batch anyway.

How many are you ordering? http://www.dinglenurseryandgarden.co.uk/wholesale.html

Or rent a yard pile up chips and sell to customers as bulk mulch...... get the right yard and you can pile up stock and hire in a chipper to create mulch as needed....... Not sure what tickets you need for this but makes sense to me

Bumping an old thread but in a similar situation and looking at the husqvarna bib type any feedback on the trousers at around £70 seem good value, I have a pair of Stihl not sure which type....... a probably leg duvets hoping thing have moved on? Was thinking of these and some oregeon boots? Short legs and husqvarna size guide is all in cm and confusing

Like the fella by me who seems to only burn old decking boards and kitchen cabinets.... stinks

That's nuts.... must have a fair bend on by the cutter......I'm not sure my little 56 would cope with 2 let alone 3....... do do you run any of the smaller engines or just the biggest ones?

Well if it gets off the fag packet I'll let you know...... if something doesn't exist it's usually because there is no market rather than no one thought of it. i haven't heard of many "I put my saw down and some scrote picked it up and stole it" stories but plenty of "parked at xyz for lunch, fuel, take a leak etc and when I came out my gear was gone or last night my truck/shed/unit was emptied" Simole,answer is a huge van vault type thing but big heavy and expensive the idea is for a small secure lock that stops the scrote with a screwdriver and a hammer. alarms are only any good if someone responds to it and small ones easily defeated by a hammer or a bottle of water..... waiting to hear if manufacturer is interested

Just make sure he has business use on his policy and pay him 45p a mile as per hmrc guidelines? I drive all over the country for my employer And since binning the company car just have to show I have business cover annually to office admin bod.

Why not use the proper bladed scrub cutters? Must be awkward as hell using the hedge cutter like that? http://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/Grass-Trimmers-Brushcutters-and-Clearing-Saws/Accessories-for-grass-trimmers-brushcutters-and-clearing-saws/Attachments-for-brushcutters/275187-28031/FH-145-adjustable-scrub-cutter.aspx

Make a frame to carry the pipe but if it's asbestos sheet don't bother how far to nearest wall? Exhaust tube isn't very heavy but 6m will need support you almost need a old flue stack and feed exhaust into it if 6m+ I would make a frame from unistrut fix to the purlins and the floor 6m lengths of 40x80 aren't too expensive 2 of them will carry the tube no bother then just need a flue outlet kit for the roof

Thats the idea it can be fixed to truck bed (probably need drilling) or bolted to floor or wall in tool store/shed

Surely a generator exhaust clamped onto Tractor exhaust is all you need? its just a tube of correct diameter fitted to the existing pipe and out to the nearest outside point? In HGV garage we had roof mounted extractor fans with long flexi 4" tubes to put on exhaust when running engines in workshop these drew plenty of fresh air as well as exhaust gases as weren't sealed just hooked over exsiting truck pipes (which changed location on each unit) but if this is a fixed install just the right Diameter tube as long as not to far. Assuming shed roof isn't 10m above the current exhaust stack? http://exhaustpartsuk.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1467&products_id=3254

£50 I think is probably less than it would cost to make a quality product with a decent lock etc. £100-£150 more realistic for a saw lock (yes more than a basic cheap saw) £75-100 maybe for a strimmer unit. these would be designed to prevent opportunist theft from vehicle etc not a determined attack by someone tooled up a bit like a wheel clamp in trailer it won't stop a determined pre planned theft but will stop an opportunist it's passing your truck or van or store. As I see it the only current options are a huge van vault type affair ?