adw
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Everything posted by adw
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The first digit should be the year in a ten year rotation, i would guess its in the seventies so would start with a seven, the pump was two position 1 and 11, to adjust it you removed the pump, there is two screws in the top, the silver one is a blank, the dark hardened screw is the adjustable one, you simply moved the dark screw to the 11 position and the silver screw back where the dark screw came out, this will increse the throw of the pump shaft and so deliver more oil, it is quite simple, you need to be carefull refitting the pump as the crank seal sits in the middle and can catch on the step on the crank hooking the spring out.
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You need to be honest, if this is genuine and has just happened then its warranty, however if this machine has suffered an impact then its not warranty, you need to get it back to the dealer for there assesment
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Was about to ask the same question, still need the ser no. plate pic.
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A picture of the ser no. plate as well.
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You need to post some pictures so we can see what has happened.
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Stolen chainsaw haul, please check serial numbers
adw replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Stolen Equipment
There is a T540 Husqvarna on the list, i am sure any Husqvarna dealer would plug it in and and hand over the ser no. if the dealer who sold it put your name into the software even better. -
Stolen chainsaw haul, please check serial numbers
adw replied to Steve Bullman's topic in Stolen Equipment
Hi Steve, the Husqvarna machines on this list have either the product no. or some other no. but not the ser no. newer machines with the correct ser no. can be traced to the dealer it was supplied to, -
Everybody has there own way of fitting bearings, if you do not have the correct tools i would fit the bearings onto the crank first, this will make sure they are right up against the shoulder, heat the crankcase with a small blow torch ( not sure a heat gun is good enought) drop the crank into one side then heat the other half and do the same again, do not pull them in using the crankcase screws, if the beaings is right home there is no need to do this, let it all cool down and if required copper hammer on either end to remove any tention.
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What machine is this? many Husqvarna clam shell engines incorporate the seal around the bearing, once compressed and removed they do not sit very well if re used, so would normally replace them.
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No, you can use the older crank and bearings and seals.
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Althought the T54011 looks the same there are many changes under the skin, improved running, improved base plate and spring, better power etc,many new parts ignition and cylinder wise.
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The bars are a different part no. if you want the x force. 585943456 15" 585943468 18" 585943472 20"
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sorry miss key, shoud be 502711401
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From any Husqvarna dealer part no. 202711401
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We have seen many machines with diesel in the tank, cleared the tank and run on petrol, smokes like hell for 5 minutes, but as others have said no engine damage.
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I have cleaned a few 550/560 cylinders, the Nikasil plating is done to a high standard within the Husqvarna factory, i guess there will always be some cylinders too badly scored to recover, small pits in the bore are not a problem as they will help oil retention, wet and dry then use a flex hone, its amazing how many you can recover, to give you some idea of how good the plating is i have just plugged a 560XP in with its original cylinder with 900 hours on the clock.
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Hell, how many times has that chain come off? i can see no other way to get that much damage on the drive links, this is not a fault with the saw, unfortunatly its your chain tentioning.
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It may also have been fitted with a .325 pitch sprocket by mistake.
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Good semi pro saw, was a Husqvarna 455, in good condition i would say £200/£250, as with all things its what somebody would pay for it.
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You need to run the bar and chain that was supplied with the saw and make up your own mind before you just right it off, not listen to other peoples opinions.
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The 142 is a hobby/entry level saw, not really the best machine to try and port, open transfers,clam shell design, built in the Poulon factory in the US. Leave as standard.
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Goin start knocking them out for a tenner a time!
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Make yourself a tool, take a piece of piano wire, bend the end over to create a u, flatten in a vice, grind a flat on the u to create a barb, feed throught the crankcase and into the tank, feed out through the filler hole, cut the end of the new hose off at an angle, push the wire into the hose, pull the hose out so as the barb cut into the hose and secures it, now gently pull the wire back pulling the hose up throught the tank and crankcase, trim the end and re fit to the carb, i have made a few of these, fitted and handle on the end to create a very good tool.
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Sorry got a 0 in the wrong place, idle to me is the tick over, max rpm is full throttle.
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You first need to put a tacho on the engine to see if the idle is too fast and causing the problem, max idle for auto tune is 20750, if the engine idle is correct, then it is a clutch/clutch bearing/ sprocket or oil pump gear issue, if the idle is too high check the throttle cable is allowing the throttle shaft to go right back, failing that then yes it could be an air leak, cylinder base gasket leaking, crank seals leaking, or transfer port cover plates loose.
