SawTroll
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Everything posted by SawTroll
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Well, there may be some good info in those 75 pages......
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Don't use it in heavily sooted engines without cleaning the engine first - and remember to check the carb adjustment (as with any change of fuel).
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Sorry about that! Btw, imo it is a bad move that they sell the 560 etc with a .325 setup, and specially that they come with the small .325x7 rim - 3/8" obviously is better suited!
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A little more than that is different, like the bar mount pad - the oil output is differently located because the small mount bars have a slimmer tail. The 562 usually comes with a standard 7-spline drum (that fits 3/8x7, 3/8x8 and .325x9), while the 560 and 2260 usually comes with a small 7-spline drum (that fits .325x7, .325x8 and 3/8x7 (a different 3/8x7)). Both drums fit on all models though, and both are listed in the IPLs. Also, the air filter and cover is larger and higher on the 562, but that's another story....
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The usual China made fake saw, that is marketed as basically anything but what it is.....
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Likely not a good idea - the hight of the file will be off, compared to the top plate of the cutters, Anyway, it is best to file freehand, looking closely on what you are doing!
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5.2mm files are 13/64 - and it actually matters if they are 7/32 or 13/64 on 3/8" Chain. The front edge of the Stihl cutters in 3/8" is lower than on Oregon, that's why they specify a smaller file. Changing to a smaller file when the cutters are filed back makes sense for the same reason.
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Chain files are short lived and disposable items anyway - how important is it really to find the very "best" ones?
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They do.
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Anyway, the best PPE is what's inside your head....
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Sure, but I still don't think it really works to do maths on the protection level of the PPE vs. Chain speed - you don't really know what will happen before it happens anyway. As I said, there are lots of factors involved....
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That is about rounded off numbers - I doubt it really weights that much....
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The chain speed in the saw specs are at max power rpm - but lots of other factors (and mostly other chain speeds as well) are involved when the chain actually hits the PPE. The sprocket diameter is just one of those factors.
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I don't have a 550, but most of my saws have heated handles - and that isn't just a coincidence"
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That bearing doesn't need a lot of greasing, as the work load on it isn't high. I still give it a little grease now and then - usually with a grease gun.
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I would want it in 3/8", and use 73LPX on it - but I am sure .325x8 and 21LPX works wery well as well. .325x7 (what they come with here) is a bad joke on that saw!
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He doesn't, as there aren't any!
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There is an IPL Library going back to 1972 on some of Huskys websites, like the US and the Swedish ones! You find it under "SUPPORT".
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Maybe a stupid question, but what bar is on the saw?
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That's the actual replacement from Stihl.....
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I agree on staying with .325 and a 15-16" bar. Regular .325 or narrow kerf is a matter on personal taste and priorities. The down side with narrow kerf is the limited chain options, with no chisel chain availiable (in most cases you can run 20LPX chain on the narrow kerf bars, but it isn't ideal).
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I don't really understand why you seemingly are having so many issues in the UK, that are more or less non-existent on other markets. Did they use the UK as a "test" market for the really early production saws, or are a lot of UK dealers just clueless?
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None really, if the bar oiling is working well. If you have to, use the same grease as for the clutch bearing.
