Little Al
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Everything posted by Little Al
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Look up stitchweld.co.uk they did an excellent job on a stationary engine for a friend on mine
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As said check nose sprocket runs free binding /tight spots, check clutch & sprocket is not locked up ( sprocket bearing) sprocket teeth for wear/damage, check chain drive links (damage, wear, bent)mount chain & bar on saw, (gloves on)& pull chain around bar, if tight/locked up check for fault.( Please forgive chain brake not engaged ?/ problem with brake mech)usually problem getting clutch cover off with brake problem
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Newbie stuck Bar and Chain 3/8 3.25 444 EWindsor
Little Al replied to champagnecharly's topic in Chainsaws
Could be that Windsor kit has gone in your part of the world Troll, but my part SW France it"s alive & well, at least in the bar & chain department, some replacement sprocket tips are becoming a bit hard to find, but the more popular bits are quite plentiful. Not sure if they are Blount made but the Sandvik bars we get look identical to the Windsor ones we have available here. -
The cast alloy or plastic oblong raised bits around the bar stud holes in the clutch cover it blanks off the outer side of the adjuster hole, with this type bar setup if you poke a thin piece of wire in the hole you should be able to see the wire by looking in the bar groove.
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The part of SW France where I live we are required by the Marie( mayor)of the villages etc.to set traps to catch the Hornets they give instructions to make traps using plastic water, pop; bottles. Biggest problem year so far was 2008.
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They are available at our dealer (SW France) to order, our enquiry, resulted in around 200 to 250€ +shipping/post
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Where they Irish & in a Tranny van? May be they have sold all the generators
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You can obtain non safety chains in Lo Pro Stihl PS, Oregon 91VXL seem the most popular IMO the PS is the F1 of saw chains. You will get better cutting speed than with STD 3/8 on a small CC saw.
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Can`t Rob at chainsawbars knock you up a loop? if you can obtain it in the UK the way to go is Stihl PS NOT PS3 chain, no bumper links by the rakers it is a yellow chain no anti kickback, but for 3/8x .050/1.3 lo pro it is the F1 of chains.
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I think you will find the Efco is manufactured by Emak Italian parent company not sure where that model is/was made but would be surprised if not Italy. the original named saws were Olympic ,Oleo Mac, Efco,+ other badged models but AFAIK non of the older models were china built
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Seems like they`ve moved on from the dodgy generators then
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I have always been led to believe that the longer chip syndrome is because the next cutter on a skip type chain is not there to part off the chip cut by the cutter in front of it ( in theory if the cutters were 3/8ths apart the chip would be 3/8ths long before the next cutter takes its own cut, if you then remove alternate cutters the chip would be 3/8ths x 2= 3/4ins so in theory twice the length) Not set in stone but I think that's the reason you are seeing bigger/longer chips Again VERY dependant on the wood type, degree of sharpness of the chain, raker height. It is a bit piece of string like almost any thing can & does happen; I you are getting goodly sized chips go for it
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I am confused, can some one explain how by removing every other cutter or two from a chain the ones that remain stay in the wood longer than they would if the missing ones were replaced, surely at a given chain speed in a given size piece of wood the one cutter will remain in the wood & cut for the same period of time & this is not dependant on it having one preset or two before the next cutter( or is there something that I have failed to grasp) The logging Co I service saws for, cut a lot of spruce, pine & often use a semi or skip chain,the longest bar they use on the saw mentioned in post# 9 is 28inch, they find the oiler is just about on the limit at that length for their requirements
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IIRC Carlube is a or the brand name that is sold at some of the aftermarket car part stores Halfords used to stock it some years ago,no idea if they still do, if it has a FC rating it should be good quality product, after all the beloved Stihl Ultra is only FB rated. If some one gave me an unopened bottle I would most certainly use it.
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I have used this brand in the past, approx. 2/3 years ago & they were very good. the only reason I stopped using them was the stockist stopped supplying. He changed to Vallorbe. If the price is competitive, I would suggest it would be worth giving them a whirl.
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The last lot of Oregon files I purchased came in an Oregon box but on 5 of the 12 files in tiny lettering near the tang they were marked Bahco. I am told that they could be manufactured by one of several firms as they put out to tender for batch production, & this seems to be borne out by the fact that some are longer lasting & better quality than others, the non Bahco ones were not good I can now purchase Sandvik at a better price & have found they are longer lasting/ sharper
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The logging company that I service saws for in SW France have to use bio oil when cutting on any non private land they have used Arborol which is mixed with water 25% oil /75% water which produces a milky liquid. if you are not using your saw/s every day I would suggest you drain out the Arborol & run through a small amount of ordinary chain oil to prevent the possibility of rust forming. the bars seemed to run cooler & there did not seem to be any more wear on bar/chain than when using standard bar oil. The cost here is only comparable if buying in quantities of 4 or more litres, but the usage involved here makes that OK. however we have now sourced a bio, oil only, at a cheaper price than the Arborol so we have stopped using it
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The current Blount (Europe) paper catalogue still lists Winsor chain, also bars & sprockets for the popular saws
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I had a similar saw sold a couple of years ago I would think if you use a FC/FD rated 100% synthetic mix oil you could run at 40/50/1. IIRC I used FC rated semi synth & being a bit old school I used a 32/1 ratio & had no problems
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Clymer do chain saw repair manuals they come in different editions that cover various models of saws from most of the makers + chapters on carbs, chains etc. I think the latest edition is # 10 obtainable on ebay I believe
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I would assume that if the retail price is cheap it is possibly sourced from one of the Chinese companys that if you buy north of 1000ft it comes at around 2p a drive link Have no certain knowledge though as he will not post to France [ we have chain here with names of dealers which falls into that category, not much use for anything other taking off the odd tree branch ] but I stand corrected if some one who has tried it knows different.Although in terms of chainsaw chain, the old adage of you get what you pay for holds good.
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Any 2T oil with an API,TC or JASCO FC, FD rating will be fine this will be in almost all cases 100% synthetic. If you don`t get along with the smell have a try at IPONE samurai [the strawberry scented one ] As an aside & athough a lot of guys swear by it Stihl oil is only FB rated[Probably get lynched for that statement].not knocking it just saying.
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Most engine specs for saws seem to be in the 4thou[0.1016mm] per inch [25.4mm] of bore [ ie 2inch bore= 8thou]
