Little Al

I purchased a 50&55DL3/8 Lo Pro had to by the 2 not available singly the 50cut OK but no better than other cheaper chain & not in the league of a Stihl PS The 55 was grabby & I had to file ir 2times to get it to cut anyway reasonablea fair amount of stretch at first but OK after that I purchase a 50 DL of the same size from Huztl for around a 1/3 cheaper & I found it from out of the packet it cut better stretched less so consider it a better buy others may view different & I can only comment on the LO Pro size

Magnificent animals& appear to be in top condition beats the diesel"stink"early morning in the forest long may it continue

I live in SW France & for the last 25years have serviced saws & logging kit used by a Commercial company In that time the only quantity tradedIv'e come across is Cubic metres could be different in the North but Iv'e never come across Cord/s quoted or used as a sale quantity.That would make it different to the US Cord quantity which is 8' x 4' x 4' & a US face cord which differs area but the most common size is 8' x 4' x 16"

+1 on this to me anything mechanical more so if it contains electrics/electronics water under pressure is a big No No

She's pretty fortunate to be either not dead or critically injured her relatives should keep a good distance between her & chainsaws or i guess it will be a rendezvous with the cemetery or the crematorium .

Both Walbro & Zama do a metering needle height gauge they are engraved for the carb model, & you just choose the carb model & lay the gauge across the carb where the metering arm is with the lettering lined up. The arm should just touch the gauge to correct the arm will require gentle bending up or down. The Walbro is a shaped letter W, the Zama is a letter "Z" IIRc At the time I bought mine they were around 4 Euro's each? Advertised on Flea bay

As said blame the system I have no doubt that there are a good number of UK born & raised folk that are taking advantage of the system, & having never had or only had a job for a short time have paid very little or no tax in their adult life.

I don't know of any company that does this, It's usually DIY The cost would probably be near or in excess of a replacement & you would still end up with a used bar. I guess it would be worth wile on a Sugi, Tsmura, Cannon, etc.but if cared for these last for a long time

That would be a Hobby 101 based on the Poulan 25 series guess there would be between 6 & 10 badged brands

That's usually attributed to oil containing Castor or esters from Castor oil whatever the mix ratio you use it needs the carb mixture settings reset to get the correct fuel /air ratio If you're really picky on settings that could mean several times a day, if you're a little less concerned always err a tiny bit rich again the use of more oil would help towards preventing lean seizure but getting the carb setting correct is the #1 priority Back in the days of 125& 250 2 stroke Road Race/Gp bikes, tracks that required the throttle wide open for longer periods of time had more oil added to the fuel & carb/s set to suit some times the jetting would be changed between Practice, Qualifying & the Race. Finicky things these Tuned 2 smokes, if you're trying to extract max power & wish to finish the race. Most chainsaws in stock form are manufactured for reliability rater than out & out power which would require constant tinkering as with the bikes.

Over the last 50 odd years Iv'e chopped & changed the brand of mix oil with no oil attributed failures to me it's the smaller amounts of oil in the mix that may/may not cause problems, erring south in the mix ratio would help/cure a lot of the problems, a good number of 2 smoke equipment users although there is proof from respected tuners/modders of 2 smoke motors that the more oil in the fuel mix (within reason)the harder/better it will run/perform but modern trends seems to be less is better.

Not by any means trying to put you down, but if it was me & I had worked for several different company's only to be let go in favor of some one less skilled, on receiving my P45 or whatever the dismissal form is,I would ask for a meeting with the guy letting me go & find out his reason for doing this, if you keep your cool, & ask in a reasonable manner you should get a reason, I say this as it has happened a few times so would guess it's something other than a non like scenario between 1 boss man & yourself At least then you would know the reason If it's a c**p reason you are probably best somewhere else. Good luck.

Could you not get a couple of metric bolts/allen bolts to suit, most probably a standard metric size/thread. Fleabay has a huge selection.

I bought one around a year back & it seems the pt# has been amended to dropping the last 9 in the #,when I looked up where I bought it It comes up as discontinued item. As it's a tool for Zama carbs I would hope that someone somewhere would have one IIRC I paid around 6 Euro's for mine

Are you thinking this as 2T is diluted from the Blender (Mobil) before mixing to aid the mix with fuel All the specs are comparable to other quality brands

Any brand of 2smoke oil JASO rated FC or FD or ISO rating of the Equivent

No sir I'm with you on this.

Totally agree & the nearer it get to the end of it's usable working life the better/faster it will cut No one that enters race competitions does so with an out of the box chain it is always subject to a large amount of filing ,milling hand fettling

Are you died in wool for the well known 2? a Dolmar or Makita 6 or 7 series would do the jobs you require equally well possibly at a cheaper to acquire price

If you can source it Oregon "Arborol" or if you have any place you could buy soluble oil used for machining/milling a while back over a very cold period we mixed 5% diesel with the bar oil

Iv'e used Stihl PS 3/8X1.3 50 DL Lo Pro chains since they first were available probably 9/10 up to now all sharpened to their limit of use & never had a breakage it also outlasts the equiv Oregon VXL & is smoother cutting new out of the box I can sharpen the VXL to cut smooth but the last couple I had were "chattery" first off

When the company's were separate before the Blount buy out Oregon, Carlton, Windsor, & Sabre were good performing chains. Slowly as the brands were possibly produced in the same plants & on the same machines & brands became NLA the quality of Oregon in Europe at least went south & although more expensive Stihl seemed to be more widely used more so in the company's trying/earning a living working wood With the re intro of Windsor brand In our part of Europe this seems to be better quality than when it disappeared from dealers, but the Once bitten Twice shy, syndrome still holds & commercial guys are loath to change back to kit that might not be of comparable quality it's a time will tell syndrome? So at this time we use Stihl

From my days of racing 2 strokes back in those days, 250 Honda (twin ) & a JJ Cobas 125 (Aprilia motor) I was always led to believe it was down to cold seizures as the guys that blanked off half their Rads didn't suffer this problem & Yamaha reduced their Rad size & fitted a redesigned coolant pump another problem was that some of the additives in Blue Gas (fuel )were in some quarters were thought to be " Iffy " We could be talking different scenario's as in those days the 2smoke's more so the "works" machines had some way out kit on them to gain the tiny advantage from race to race dependent mostly on the straight length on the circuit.

Have you had any dealings with the Ipone 40R with the( Fraise) Strawberry fragrance, mixed in with the pong of R 2hrs of running this with Methanol is like having a Sunday morning hangover

Chainsaws & the like are not rocket science in regard to 2 smoke motors so a mix of between 32& 50/1 will more than likely work fine, with the mixture on the carb in/on tune on the other hand all the Tuning "Guru's that used to & still prepare 2 stroke bikes etc all recommend the use of a mix of between 16/25to1 to obtain the max power/revs. I was always "advised" in my past bike road race days, the longer the throttle was wide open the more oil was required To my mind Castor based oil is best for protection but is more "Mucky" than the mix of syth stuff