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Little Al

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Everything posted by Little Al

  1. Please bear in mind that the settings are likely to be to conform to minimum emissions & may need to be a "tweeck" richer for optimum running, good starting settings, but still need to be set by ear/tach for best results
  2. Remembered the book was called Half Safe by Ben Carlin
  3. Many years back in the late 40's early 50's a guy crossed the atlantic from US to UK he wrote a book about his trip, long time ago I read it but do remember he had to stop to decoke it twice
  4. Depends on where you cut. In France if it's a state owned site it has to remain in place. the reason stated to stop sparks coursing fires
  5. You may find these are EX MOD/WD hence the non standard colour.
  6. How much is the shipping to the UK on this item?
  7. I had a 55 some years back & IIRC I found a bar from a Mac 1/10 fitted, from some notes I made at the time the bar mount was Carlton 41, Oregon D276, Windsor TMX, GB MA. the bolt slot was 8MM If you go to Chainsaw Collectors Corner & look up bar mount for a Mac 1/10 there is a silhouette drawing that should help to see if this mount will fit as to the availability if correct I'm afraid I cannot help Good Luck
  8. Cannot comment on "leccie" grease gun but from experience on heavy construction plant we always used the hexagon nipples & the slide/lock on ends on the grease gun extensions it's then a problem free 1 hand operation as the need to hold/ make seal between gun & nipple is no longer required The guns we used were air operated with adjustable pressure
  9. Have a look at Axminster Tool Co Main store in town of same name When I dealt it was a paper catalogue now I 'd guess it's online sales
  10. You can get small Diamond burrs they will open out the bar oil hole
  11. A genuine Windsor chain will compere well to Carlton & be premier league to the cheap' y Chicom ones available.
  12. Try a Sugihara, Tsumura, or if available Cannon, You could be surprised, pleased on the lack of wear compared to Oregon. We use Sugi's in a commercial set up; used to use Tsumura's but can source sugi's at a more competitive price, but nothing to choose between either in performance terms, & in our usage are lasting up to 3 times longer than Oregon ( could be dependent on the cost you can obtain them for though) but to our company it's a no contest. As an aside you Husky bar was more than likely an Oregon Product as I don't think Husky's new bar producing Factory is pushing out production bars yet? Sawtroll will know;
  13. Oregon, Carlton, Windsor,are all Blount industries manufactured & in my part of France Carlton & Windsor brand's come & go. 2 or so years ago most Windsor kit disappeared, all Carlton, now Windsors back & Carlton is difficult to source. A lot of Blount products available here seem to now be produced in Belgium The last Windsor Lo Pro chain compered very well with Carlton's equiv & wasn't as "chatterie" as 91VXL from Oregon. I have not used Std 3/8 or 325, as the company I service saws for gets Stihl Chain for their commercial logging setup, so I use almost none of other brands, & IMO the Lo Pro way to go is Stihl PS (No safety bumpers, yellow label)
  14. Are there any site sponsors who are dealers for Efco /Oleo Mac ? as the 2 local to me, & 1 about 30 miles away are giving me the runaround, on OM 947 parts. contacting Emak in Italy, get me referred to Emak France who in turn refer me back to the same dealers, & I'm getting somewhat Pee'd off .Any leads to some one sensible gratefully received. Thanks, Al.
  15. i"m confused are you comparing a Sugi bar to an Oregon or Husky (rebadged Oregon)& rating a Stihl bar better than Sugi, although Stihl is better than Blount products, except perhaps the old original Windsor(non Blount) 3 Rivet Speedtip. but in the commercial usage we subject them to, the Sugi, or Tsumura bars out perform the Stihl bars (in both wear/lack of, & reliability )We can not source Cannon bars for a competitive price so I cannot personally pass a comment on them as regards performance, although I"m led to believe they compare very well with Sugi"s etc. I have may be read this wrong & you are saying use anything but a Husky bar on a Husky saw but stick with Stihl on a Stihl saw. I can assure you you will get better service from a Sugi or Tsumura on a Stihl saw.& in my part of the world there is not to much difference in price between Stihl & the Sugi"s etc.
  16. +1 on that ,which ever 1 of the 3 you can buy for the least amount of cash, I think you will be pleased with.my personal choice would be "Sugi" but all 3 are top notch, compared to the " Husky"( rebadged Oregon) We use Sugi"s on all our work saws which are used in a Pro logging environment.Although the cost is higher the wear rate + reliability makes them a better bang for the buck than any others.
  17. Not sure which Stihl model it is, but on one you have to reverse the polarity, ie + to earth to get it to run correctly ( could possibly be the 030 ) there are posts on some of the other chainsaw forums with the info.
  18. There are several outlets on Ebay Uk that will post Stihl chains & doesn"t sponsor Rob carry & post stihl bits
  19. If it"s a 050/1.3 gauge bar the F1 of chain IMO is Stihl PS the non bumper link jobbie can"t give any info on the043 stuff as I don"t use it
  20. That has always been my take on it if what he says is correct ( I have doubts) I will have to re think my views on chainsaw chains,looking forward to the results of the oil testing.
  21. Wouldn"t like to be humping that around in the woods all day we haveone that performs almost as well, & you sit in an aircon cab + it strips the crap off the log. Pretty impresive as a play thing though.
  22. If it"s an electronic coil you might have a problem seeing a spark with pulling the recoil, some are very weak it"s a wonder the saws ever start. Try motoring it over with a socket on an adapter in an electric hand drill ( make sure it"s going anti clockwise looking at the flywheel. Also not good to rotate motor without the plug lead connected & plug earthed, or the kill switch in the OFF position ( so as the spark has an outlet through plug or kill switch)
  23. To the guy in post #43 how does a different brand of chain oil have an effect on the cutting edge of a chain? I would like to find the answer to this as I maintain saws for a Pro logging company & it would save me a lot of time if I could keep the edge on the chains longer. The company run 10 saws most of the day on a daily basis so it would help a lot? but up to now with many different brands of bar oil ( Bio for public land) I can"t say that I have noticed a difference. No matter what oil they all seem to go blunt over the same time period with same type trees/wood ( unless they get "crocked" through hitting some thing nasty)
  24. Magwick did I misread your post are you using fresh/new engine or used? if new I cannot see a problem, if used, then yes you have a problem,
  25. What tests are carried out in the UK on bar oil ? in France I know of no such test + i"m led to understand that some brands of bar oil are produced from reclaimed oil + tacifier, after all its only a once around the block & goodbye, all mineral based oil products are carcinogenic to a degree, but around here there are quite a few old guys that have been loggers all their lives & are still around after 80 or so years I guess it more to do with the genes than the effects of bar oil inhalation, & the oil was a lot more crappy in years gone by. What inside part of your saw doesn"t like the oil, what is happening The fact that engine oil is produced to be effective over several thousand miles at any thing from 1000 to up to 6000 or so RPM. 2 seconds or so to fling it around a saw bar means it should do the job equally as well if not better than bar oil only difference seems to be the bar oil contains tackifier

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