Little Al

We are a commercial set up & run our saws approx 8Hrs a day 5/5 to 6 days a week for 10.5 to 11 months a year we change the saws with the most hrs on them every 2/2;5 years we mix at 40/1 & the 15 years Iv'e been servicing the saws we have not suffered an oil related saw failure I'm not saying that this is the correct & other mixes are wrong it's just the way we do it & the outcome

I think he's been on a Husky " brain washing course"there are 2 smoke mix oils out there that are equal, if not superior, to husky oil.A 100% synth Jaso FD rated oil will perform to equal / better than what he is pushing. A thing to remember is that oil labeled by saw maker is blended for them by an oil company, & the oil company will advise on the blend, so if they can advise on the blend it follows that oil marketed under their own brand will contain the "goodies" As an aside some of the smaller oil company' cannot afford the cost of the JASO test but produce oil as good/better than the rated stuff But it's a bit of a black art sussing out what oil this is if you stick with a FD rated oil you will be good to go, there are less pricey brands that will do an equal/better job. A bit of a search through the oil specs will give you an idea.

We use Sugi Bars on Husky 3120's in a commercial logging set up & in over 5 years of work with this combo have never suffered a tip failure. Could I ask if you pinched the bar? that & not greasing the tip as per the Sugi info is the only thing that would cause a failure I'm sure if it's a manufacturing fault possible as it's a bit of mechanical kit it will be sorted

If you obtained a Sugihara bar & a name chain cheaper than the equiv Oregon then in my opinion you are on to a winner, a sugi bar is better longer lasting than Oregon bars A Stihl PS chain/Sugi Bar is the F1 set up in the saw worldin my opinion

The fuel used in 2 & 4 stroke ( Gas) engines is good for either; the difference being the 2t is mixed with oil for engine lubrication there has been long discussions on the pro's/ con's of alklyte fuel. I work for a commercial logging company & for us the price of premixed fuel is much to high ( for the amount we use ) + in France the essence ( petrol ) contains no ethanol So we use 95 ron fuel mixed with 2T oil at a ratio of 40/1 others will have different views on the mix ratios, your XP oil will be fine in pump fuel, better still if it's E free

Does the bar have oil holes? or is the oil fed through the bar adjustment hole that's not in use? if the adjustment hole is used check that the part of the clutch cover that lines up with the outside of the hole is a solid block to stop oil flowing through to the outside of the bar rather than being contained in the bar groove same with the oil hole also that the oil hole lines up with the oil slot a good check is rig up saw without clutch cover ( extra washers on bar nuts & run you should then see where the oil is coming & going.

Got to agree with that, Some demo's to rack up 20 hrs. Our local dealer 's demo's are around 5/10 mins at most, usually a couple of "cookies" from a choice of log to suit bar/saw size if it has that length of run time, If it was me spending my cash I would ask for the muffler to be pulled to cast an eye over the piston/ring/s. How long is the warranty? full time as new saw would be, in which case I'd probably not bother with the muffler removal.

I haven't looked it up but seem to remember an earlier post in this thread saying the saw had chain jamb/stall. I have had a similar problems with a couple of Oregon 91 VXL chains this was cured on sharpening

I didn't have to stop the saw just joggle the saw around & it freed up I have had similar problems with Oregon 91 VXL Chattering & having the chain jamb /stall in the cut this cured it's self after sharpening the chain.

Ordered & paid for 2 3/8 Lo Pro chains on Oct 13th. Received 18th Nov to France delivery company cock up, after 9 days I contacted NAS but they were out of stock in chains of that size ( 2weeks back order) although this stretched over several more days ( the original order turned up ) so informed them to stop them sending out the replacements, throughout this NAS answered my emails promptly & phone courteously on a problem that was not of their making so only a bit put out that they had no stock to back up. Now to the chain performance, fitted to Oleo Mac 244F 14" bar 50 dl used for approx 3 hours cutting split metre lengths of oak to burner length 6"to 8" dia the chain cuts reasonably well, it appears a non bumper semi chisel chain the problem I had was the chain jamming in the cut coming to a complete stop & having to "joggle the saw to free it I don't know if this will be cured on first sharpening, without the jamming, at the price point it seems to be a reasonable buy, a further period of cutting /time used will reveal if it will stand up to use for a time period similar to the more well known & more expensive brands. as of now I find the the Stihl PS chain a better cutting but more expensive choice Time will reveal all.

Argh, but if the Sugi, Tsumura, Cannon, or Total bar lasts 2 & a bit times as long or longer which it probably will do unless it gets bent, you are paying out more on Oregons. We run Sugi's in a commercial logging set up, as they are " the best bang for our buck" We have tried all 4 & they are more or less identical in terms of usage but Total & Cannon are for us hard to source, & we get Sugi's at a better price than Tsumura, so hence the use of them, we would use whichever we could source the easiest at the best to us price.

Must be A French thing, we were offered some paper wrapped "biccies" the name on the wrapping was "Henno"on removal they resembled slabs of mortar that you would get between courses of bricks, in both colour & texture my fellow faller placed his on a stump & hit with the back of his axe head it took 2 hits to break it, they must have been inedible as some 4 days later the were still where we'd thrown them the animals in the woods had not taken them.

Excellent job only " mod's I would make i'd 1,double up the centre longitudinal , bolted together to spread the joint load & as said in another post lay wire netting (1/2" chicken wire is ideal) on where the wheels run to stop slippage in wet weather as the " green' from vegetation can cause problems.

Not up with this saw but could it be the filter for the vent? to stop C**p being sucked in, or is there a pick up oil pipe with a filter on the end again an anti c**p device to preserve the pumps integrity

I guess it falls in the back to the future but I had a problem with a VERY painful elbow various potions & doctors visits eased it a bit but it was still a problem One of my neighbors saw me having a painful movement he disappeared into his workshop & returned with a spray can & sprayed my elbow after an hour or so it was less painful & he said spray it 3 times a day after a week the pain had disappeared the Wonder Product WD40 it appears he had knee problems for years & in desperation & in pain he had spayed his knees & it had helped more than his doctors treatment Not saying it'sa cure all or even a cure at all just know it worked for 2 folk

Troll won't rate it if its not a "Husky" no matter how well it performs

A couple of years ago orso I picked up a Oleo 981 that had been subjected to the dreaded straight gas on strip down the pot was " recoverable" so it was rebuilt with a new piston, & odds & ends & after the limiters were modded & tuned it ran really good I used it for a couple of months & was pleased with the performance not " your F1 " but always started 1st or 2nd pull cold & 1st hot My neighbor kept on at me to sell it to him & as I got fed up I sold to him to shut him up He has used it a lot & to date it still starts & runs well + he's had no problems I liked it & am a bit of an Oleo Mac Fan having several other models of theirs You could in my opinion do a lot worse than getting that one.

I gather Bracken by hand & use one of those presses that were marketed years back for compressing wet paper to make the briquets for burning it takes several goes to come up with a block to use & I only use it as the first start logs I have no idea what brand of wood burner was being used but mine, 14 KW " Godin" certainly burns hotter with oak on than the odd occasion Iv'e used bracken on a good burning fire, useful for me though as it's a "Freebie" gather while dog walking.bit like the doctors prescription 3 times a day after meals

I know that they are not available in France but have no knowledge if available in the UK. If yes then the way to go is Save Edge followed by Valorbe, Pferd,& Bahco. the problem with the files marketed by Oregon, Stihl etc is they are open to tender so there is no way of knowing the actual producer hence some good some less so were the own brand label the quality is usually consistant

Any brand of chain will cut good if properly sharpened it"s the time cutting the same wood between sharpening that sorts the good from c**p

If you look on Ebay.com under Max Flo air filter material,& a seller Kstuff68, he sells (or did ) pieces of felt like material, that you can add or replace the existing filter material. Very useful on old saws where original filters are NLA

It would be preferable to use a "Timesert" or one of the other (Solid ) inserts as the helicoils are similar to a tightly wound spring, whereas the others are a solid unit with a flange to enable a tightly seated insert with no chance of winding in or out on removing the plug after insertion

As the man says we use them in a commercial set up, Sugi , Tsumura, or Total which ever you can obtain at the best price we used Tsumura & Sugi both the same as regards wear etc.but could source Sugi's cheaper Total has no supply in our area with a competitive price.

Try a 63PMM chain semi chisel, longer "tween" sharpening"s in diry/rough wood.

"Cor" You had it cushy that's not work that's laying about & a squirrel " each"