Graham w

here all the time let me know when ?

Got me today though! Theres 5 mills forsale, two circular rack benches and three bandracks (and all our older woodwork machinery) The yankee circular in the photo is built on a steel chassis with a sawdust blast fitted and a 100hp perkins 6cly. weighs around 4 tons and theres a road tow kit for it somewhere but very out of date! sat outside for 3 years two others are a large circular rack bench and a stenner 42 spares unfinished project is a forestor 900 resaw on a stenner bench, pto driven and semi portable. unfinished because we got the Guilliet instead. can finish the build if required. on a steel chassis so no pit needed. Next photos are the Guilliet that replaced the yankee. A very good old school stationary bandrack on plenty of steel so no blockwork just a pit. still installed and fully working. our best saw yet cuts 16' x 3' with 5'' saws.only forsale due to a new mill that replaces everything drop me a PM

Another thing we're looking into is a silver back band. This is a blade that has teeth to the rear of the blade that cleans up after the main cut in the same pass by creating a vortex that removes sawdust and tearing- could be good!

Im terrible in the mornings unless out contracting then its on site on time anytime otherwise i work to my best not to a schedule this can mean i will get up 10 -11am start 1-2pm and finish when the job is done 7 days a week. Recently finished up a fabrication job at 6am just because i felt like it and usually work 80+ hours a week a plus to this is all our machinery is double shifted, boys on site for 7 and finished for 4 then im on for the night shift where i can do what ever i want with nobody to bother me. today i did 8am till 7pm

I will try to explain wide bands and what makes them. A wider band has more strength therefore can be strained more than a narrow band (wide = more metal) this means that the teeth are less able to move side to side when cutting irregular timber. as the teeth are less likely to move in normal logs you can cut faster or cut very ugly logs slowly, to do this you want more power the diameter of pulley is very important as you can run a thicker gauge band on a larger pulley because the blade is not stressed round a tight circumference i.e. it dose not flex as hard causing less fatigue damage to your blade = thicker gauge band= stronger band = greater straining potential= a faster straighter cut as teeth are less able to deviate = happy customers then you can push your prices up because they will keep coming back! to do all this you will need a high quality mill with lots of power, good bearings and guides what i would recommend is that you go for the best mill you can with the largest trakmet spec as a minimum

it depends on the quality of the mill, kw/hp, tension, angle of tooth, type of tooth, spacing of tooth, gauge of band = strain over saw and whether the blades have been sharpened correctly a good 125mm balde for our saw is £350+vat and £20 to sharpen if you put in 10 each time. good quality blades will last forever ours are over 20 years old

no experience with trak met at all but what i can say is the larger your saw the better your cut we have 125mm saws and 37kw that is in my opinion inadequate for oversize timber

ive a calibrator (big sander) but we're up in scotland

lol theres no timber left in scotland! if you own standing timber it will worth more in a few years

Bovine warble

Sounds like good eating catch it kill it cook it!

Lancashire saw co. http://www.lancashiresaw.co.uk/contact-us.aspx if they are out they should be able to source them in from US, if not i have boxes of 3x9, 3x10 tips and a few holders handy Graham

This

you can visually grade the timber or have it mechanically graded. for the size elm of beams you are using you would visually grade them (there is a thread on this somewhere) and this to separate the best beams from those that have flaws e.g. rot, cracks and excessive knots. Im based in between Inverness and Nairn

your not going to have any problems with 8x5 elm where a modern build uses 45x100mm for the equivalent span. for good measure have the beams graded to rule out any flaws

Hi When are you planning the build? Im very busy Atm but could extract/mill/machine that timber fairly quickly for you and we have an automatic component saw to make all 60 trusses in minutes let me know if your stuck Graham

Dave, bought the patrol on Wednesday and it must be the best truck in the UK!

I mind that patrol was up for sale about 2-3 years ago and felt really bad for not buying it! could you pm some more details?

Hi Stu I think you have a great selection of timber lined up for your build (people started using softwoods because we used up all the hardwoods) Weight should not be much of an issue if the chassis is a bale trailer. I would recommend oak as a tough outdoor cladding thats more than strong enough for framing. Ash as above a traditional framing timber. Cherry or the heartwood is hard and could make good flooring, Beech also makes good framing, floorboards and panelling. Im doing a run of birch panelling and i will let you know how i get on!

Get a range rover J = hilarious fun!

dream job!

Hi all Im currently £25 an hour plus overheads for a makita belt sander but due to growing demand thinking of getting a flooring sander and charging out by the square meter. Is there a rate for sanding timber? thanks Graham

if you really want to treat yourself get an optrel panoramaxx welding mask its fab! a little expensive but in the long run works out cheaper than welding gloves

Thanks. About five years ago I asked a good friend of mine who is a joiner how to build better with timber? (im not time trained) Andy said have a go, its just bits of wood - great advice!