Graham w

i have a 900 without the benches so put it with a stenner bench, its a good solid saw excellent for pointing posts and cutting shingles. make sure there is good sawdust extraction to keep the sawdust away from the blades and if its pto mounted remember not to lift it too high because it will hit the tractors cab lol they come with four inch blades that means you will get a very good cut, i would not touch anything less

Are there any problems with building a log cabin almost exactly the same as a design I've found online? Well not exactly the overall layout, dimensions and structural design would be completely different as the build would house a cafe/restaurant and clothing upstairs looking over the seating area with offices above the kitchen and store. The changes to the layout inside are straight enough but the exterior (pictured) is almost perfect for purpose therefore to use it would be more than following a theme? In the worst case scenario what could happen? if anything:confused1: Thank you Graham

yes got some cherry to be cut to length over 8'' big J whats the size of your ash, i need a load for cartwheels

what size of cherry are you after, i may have something. are there any other hardwoods that would do?

im in the market for a wadkin 3 phase morticer, what model and tooling has she got, would you would load on a pallet?

meet you half way!

they are still available, that sounds like a good challenge!

were up at inverness so a fair bit away, yes we can load them and theres about 250- 260 tons in total

Hi, whats the going rate for green hardwood discs mainly beech, oak and sycamore from 20cm to 80cm in diameter by 25cm in length, there's also some ash, birch and willow, loads of lime and a huge quantity of cedar up to 2 meters in diameter? Thanks Graham

well spotted! if it requires a test certificate where would you go to get one? it looks as if it needs a considerable air supply and three phase

This is a sensible option The not so sensible one is a p38 range rover petrol. Like a landrover but warm in the winter, quiet on the road and smooth everywhere. They are more compact than a mazda/ford ranger and is a match for landcruisers and patrols off road. At best 14mpg so sits off the road most times but hey price it in to the job!

a lad i know along the road bought a pier made from enormous chunks of green heart, sand and shellfish included, wants me to size it down to more useful sizes. how would you cut old green heart? he says its nasty stuff and no other sawmill will entertain him thanks

just me then? a few years ago we were running a 400 acre farm with a ford 7910 from 1986 and a massey 135 industrial. the ford died last year. Kevin, farming is away of life, give it your all and take some pride. theres nothing in farming for the smaller tenanted farmer we sized down to 200 acres as i dont get subsides so fund the farm with the forestry and sawmill

i start with 158mm and air dry standing upright for about two to three weeksand then pass through a rip saw. at best i get 148mm square good slow grown euro larch dosnt shrink much or move too much once cut

pulling ragwart is a waste of time! i find when you pull one out the root system will shoot up another 8 or so. the best way to kill them off is to spray 3 times a year first is early on when they are coming through second is after the first to top up the first lot and catch the second growth third is in the back end when next years are lot getting ready and do this for three years or grow some tesco that end them:lol:

thats true dairy cows are at the highest risk but any cow with an open udder that isnt worked either milked or feeding calfs is at high risk from mistitus. it can be prevented by pumping the cow full of penicillin this works with beef cattle but not sure if thats good for milk

the herd will still need milked to prevent mistitus also if you were to restock dairy farms to produce beef you would flood the beef market. that would lead to falling prices e.g. hardwood at £20 a cube everywhere but nobody wants it

how about importing a proper circular mill from usa? [ame] [/ame] i love the old circular mills but i have to say they are no match for a large band mill

hi all, looking for european larch standing or in 4.9m lengths. around the Inverness area. A minimum diameter of around 16'' or 400mm. oversized and old logs welcome. 25 to 50tons needed for a build with a dead line so would be great if something could be on the way within 2 weeks. many thanks Graham

simple but soft:thumbdown:

thats great thanks. i will get in touch nearer the time. is there import duty on a used mill?

hi all, im currently looking at options on upgrading our sawmill. has anyone a rough idea of the cost to ship something like this? Thanks Graham

is there blade guides to the rear of your blade? mine only has one set on the cutting side, i added another set to the rear for a better cut and this made the blade worse and encouraged chattering. it may be worth trying with and or without?

how are the teeth sharpened, if they are not perfectly straight or square to the blade they can pull the blade in the direction they are sharpened to, causing it to wag. if there is tension in the blade ie. it is dished means it needs hammering. you can get a slightly dished blade that will cut good for 4-6 hours then after that it wags and you have to stop. if you cut the log too quickly the blade will wag, this is because the blade isnt getting the chance to fully cut a clean path for itself to travel through the log. larch is not kind to large saw blades and its best to cut the logs slowly with wedges chapped in behind the blade to prevent the log closing and remember to remove the wedges if you need to pull the log back past the blade. cutting out the tension in the log in your first cut reduces the stress in the log and every cut after this is much easier. this is the best way to protect the blade from buckling

insert tooth gives good flexibility you can change the teeth on the saw if one is damaged and sharpen them without special equipment on site. there are also special teeth for cutting ugly/dirty timber. one of the main problems with them is that they take a huge kerf and cause loads of waste and sawdust. the teeth cost a couple of quid each and the holders are around £8 each. hammering will cost £60 -80 dependent on size of blade and condition you rarely need to hammer your blades unless they are abused and i never lost a tooth. other mills had half dozen stuck in the roof, they do come out and never stand in line to the saw blade etc. the holders can fall apart if they are really old so its worth checking