wisecobandit

Got called off work today as it was quiet so decided this morning I would dig out the ms250 and clear an overgrown hedge. Ive said it before and I will say it again I think they are very under rated due to being in the hobby/houseowner saw range but for hedging I find the lightweight v power ideal. 6 hours ended up with a result of 4 bonfire heaps of decent size! Ok I did cheat and didn't drag it by hand but did have a few ciggy breaks etc due to the sea views and the cold. A few dodgy pics (weather was misty and dull etc so not great quality)

The ms181 should have an adjustable carb. Make sure you note where the position of the L adjustment screw is and then unwind it 1/4 of a turn and see if that makes a difference in starting it. You will have to reset the tickover screw if it helps. Other possibility could be the fuel line especially if its been stored with fuel in it constantly for 3 years like most small hobby saws are.

The manufactuers really need to take you on to write there workshop manuals :thumbup: There problem solving answer would just be "carb fault, replace carb"

Could also be worth a look around the rocker cover to as they use a rubber gasket which can deteriorate. Its a bit hard to advise a start point without a few more clues tho as generally Hondas tend to be pretty good. Any particular side/area its concentrated in? If its splattered is it around the exhaust area? When the rings go they can throw some out the exhaust.

May pay to put the above up on the mower thread Barry (gardenkit) is pretty busy at work at the mo including working some sundays but tends to keep an eye on that thread when he gets chance. It may get eaten up here and he may miss it if it ends up a few pages back by the time he gets chance to visit

Had an easy day today. just an 026 with an erratic spark. The kill wire had rubbed thru and was earthing out. Apart from that a deep clean on an 070 in preperation for a full rebuild in the pipeline when ive amassed some parts. Most of the day was spent at the yard on "project logsplitter" due to it being mothers day and the step kids wanting time home with there mum.

When you say you cleaned it did you remove the cover/plate above the clutch and clean the mechanism and spring area? That's where they get gunked up normally.

Maybe a speck of dirt holding the 1 way valve open possibly. It may also be a blockage in the filter gauze inside the carb that blocks sometimes the harder it pulls fuel thru (under load etc) The primer bulb is actually after the carb so to speak. Fuel goes from the tank thru the carb and then thru the primer and returned to the tank. (most ppl are under the illusion the bulb is between tank and carb) Priming the bulb pulls fuel thru the carb so the carbs full before you start it, back thru the primer to the tank. A hole in the fuel line simply pulls air into the system hence not filling the carb properly etc OR it can be a intermittent blocked gauze/mesh in the carb. If it where totally choked chances are the bulb would "stay in" and not refill. The longer tail on the primer bulb should be the return line to the tank. Hope that makes sense but the better understanding of how it works will give you a better idea of your problem

Theres a 1 way valve in the purge valve which sounds a bit like its failed. (hence 2 different length tails for the pipes to ensure its fitted the correct way around. The other possibility is the fuel pipe has a hole in it somewhere. (usually at the point where it exits the tank) Either would lead to the bulb not priming fully

Nope ive tried those rods to on a magnesium crankcase and a complete waste of time.I wasted my money on some to... Set my mig up with alloy dissimilar wire and argon gas and still a waste of time. (welds alloy engine blocks fine so its the magnesium aspect) The only way is a proper tig welder

The husky 226hd75 are good for it aswell and rated to cut upto 22mm or so in the book. Never had an issue cutting anything with mine or had any issues with it.

And the 20 had the better carb than the 200

That's the blighters. You cant just change the starter pull either to turn them into a "normal" saw as the flywheels different to...

That's the problem here in Devon. Everyone wants OAK OAK and more Oak despite ash and beech being better in my eyes people seem set in there ways of previous generations. Ive got an approx. 50 ton cedar tree to cut up and don't even know yet how im even likely to get rid of it. Im actually considering just dumpy bagging and sticking it on ebay! I only do a few logs as a sideline so only a very small customer base but lucky enough to get my sticky mitts on mainly free timber but with that in mind to keep things sweet it also means I end up with some wood I don't always have a need or desire for.

The c on newer stuff denotes comfort. Normally those god damn awful starter pulls you pull easily and nothing happens for 2 seconds. I think earlier c models just had the elasto handle? Don't think it has a bearing to the cat although they are normally on the u.s imported saws.

Mole plough/chisel plough for helping break subsoil for drainage. I would say its been cut down as that's pretty narrow etc and you wouldn't use 4 tines on something that size/width and they spare tines/tips have come from somewhere. Sometimes they get cut by farmers and 1 tine left and modified to lay alkathene water pipe simply by making a fitting down the rear of the tine and they work quite well. Could as already been said diy'd for a compact tractor/market gardener. [ame] [/ame]

Never seen them in the uk. I think cheap chainsaw parts makes the pack up them themselves and don't think its an off the shelf kit. Shame as handy but the postage they charge kills it.

Ive used several and never had a complaint or faulty one and always tuned up fine.(tbh most of them are pretty well set out the box) I wouldn't worry to much about country of origin as like stubby says even the zamas are made in china.

Easy enough to put another crank in them. I certainly wouldn't want to buy a saw simply for that although it still will prob still sell for more than a realistic price broken. Obviously pays to put new crank bearings and seals in whilst its apart and she'll go on for a few more years yet and you will get change out of £20 for that (bearing and seals). If you get stuck or in difficulties im not a million miles away from you if you need a hand.

Just take the drum and clutch off the saw and Fire it up etc obviously being sensible and careful to eliminate the needle bearing and clutch units but my bet is it will be silent and as said its the clutch springs.

Pm sent

I would love one of these. Not the biggest homelite but it has gears and a stick shift..

The heads are prone to cracking on them. Just buy a complete head with valves etc already installed and then its only a few hours to put a complete head on. If your paying labour for them to swap the valves/springs/collects over to a new bare head it wont work out much different financially to just buy the complete head and have all new. And whilst its off anyway make sure a new cambelt goes on and the waterpumps sound.

Ive not seen an 036 go that low but the 026's are making strong money as are xp saws. All saws seem to still be making good money by now (time of year) they've normally tailed off slightly. Every time I see something im interested in it sails past any realistic figure to the poinyt I think sometimes I should unload a few and cash in...

Yup agree with the patterdale. Good little hunters and stand to anything but great with kids usually. Tis all in the training tho..