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wisecobandit

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Everything posted by wisecobandit

  1. if you do gimme a nudge so I don't miss it please. Have to say the twins surprised me not that I know what they are worth but I would have been happy if it where mine.
  2. I agree with sharpening the .404 Use it on bars above 30" and I don't know why people prefer 3/8 (milling I can see why) .404 is much more resistant to rubbish and dirt tho so maybe it doesn't loose shape so much so needs more tickling than a true good filing. Its ideal for stumping Like others have said tho I always cut the stump right down last as that's what will kill your chain quickest of all so may aswell do it once the rest of the jobs done so you can sharpen it at home rather than in the field.
  3. Full chisel cuts bigger faster chips but blunts quicker Semi cuts slightly slower, smaller chips but better resistance to dirt and blunting. Basically if your cutting good clean wood use full chisel. If its dirty, rotten or wood that's been on the ground semi chisel will prob be better. Theres a bit more to it but that's basically it in a nutshell.
  4. Its all very much the same for homelite. We view them as piles of cr*p but in the years gone by they had some big saws on the market capable as any other good brand in the comaparable engine range. When you think these saws are only 100cc and probably around 40 years old [ame] [/ame]
  5. fuel tank breather issue Im not sure on the 520 but normally the breather vent usually on j/reds and partners looks a bit like an inline fuel filter and normally black midway thru a fuel type line if that makes sense.
  6. Just mentioned it as the original post says a 365 or 372. Personally I use a 24 on a 390xp and 24/25 on a 660
  7. Just rebuilt a Husqvarna 365 special with new crank bearings and seals etc today which will be up for grabs shortly.
  8. Least if im using the equipment I have there on site I can grab a few loads as and when if the ground dries up for a few days. If I have to go there with a big tractor I would want to do it all the same day and arrange it in advance not knowing what the weather could do. It only has to go half a mile up the track so its not like it needs to be carted miles either.
  9. Balls wrong again lol. It does have a ce sticker but on the sticker it actually says husvarna. If I could upload it I would but just taken a pic on my phone of it. It's yellow/white.
  10. LOL certainly looks that way. Im gonna dig out the new 395xp I have here and have a look for any ce sticker it may have but im sure it hasn't. The homeowner saws normally have 1 on the top cover but its almost like its husqvarnas own design sticker that doesn't look out of place and not some ugly general purpose sticker like on that saw.
  11. Yeah I can lay my hands on a bigger trailer Jon not really much of an issue but due to the size of the trunk I will prob split there rings where they fall. That would mean throwing logs up into a higher trailer and when theres the amount of logs there is... Taking the tractor/trailer there from a different location 10 miles away etc etc I know its a ball ache but also due to its location sticking a tractor and 10 tonne trailer across a field that's got some damp spots which is used for various public activitys and the main view out the window of "the manor" its more a case of just trying to keep the main man sweet along with damage limitation. I may see if I can borrow a small 5 t trailer or something as we have a 45hp compact tractor always there onsite to use the splitter and winch anyway and would prob make most sense.
  12. Lol maybe I described that poorly. The later genuine models have a more sunken into the crankcase vin plate. Same area but more deeper inset. Now show me a genuine Husqvarna with a ce approved silver sticker Some of the homeowner saws have a coloured ce sticker on them but never seen a silver one and never seen any form of ce sticker on an xp model.
  13. They pretty much are. The 034 super av uses the 036 topend even. Not that clued up but it was only minor things like the 036 had the adjustable oil pump but even the later 034's got that as standard. The standard 034 tho had a smaller bore and slightly shorter stroke although crankcases etc are all the same etc.
  14. Falsey 3120 the silver ce sticker gives it away. Atleast the names copied right tho they can use a k in there.... Also the serial vin tag is in the wrong place but the right place for earlier era husqvarnas. Top cover screws are silver and should be almost black.
  15. I'm thinking around 50 ton myself just looking at it. Just trying to work out the easiest way to transport it. Hasn't got to go far but with a 3 1/2 trailer it may take a while and a fair few loads...
  16. I know it can vary a great deal so can only be a rough idea but ive got a lebonese cedar tree that's split straight down the middle to go for logs! Now the trunk is nearly 8ft diameter and some 150ft high and its approx. 250 years old! I was hoping to give you an idea of size on google street view but isn't of any real help but may give you an idea in comparison. Its the tree in the field between the lake and track (closer to the track) and you can see a shadow in the middle of the canopy. Click on below link and select sattellite https://www.google.com/maps/views/explore?gl=us&vm=1&ll=50.710989,-3.712287&bd=50.709009,-3.717281,50.712969,-3.707293&z=17&pv=2
  17. They where updated due to some airleaks. You can modify the original and use a steel jubilee clip/hose clamp. If memory serves me correct the stihl 044/ms440 clamp fits ideal With the saw running just give it a small squirt of wd40 around the inlet manifold and listen for any note change in the saw which would obviously dictate an airleak. Which decompression system is fitted to your saw? If its the early "piped type" rather than the more modern decomp theres probably more chance of that leaking than the inlet manifold. Just blank off the pipe off at the front of the cylinder and fit the modern decomp valve.
  18. Yeah I think you have Eddy thanks. Im just waiting for the carb kit to turn up as much as anything as the diaphragms etc are all saggy and past it. Done 50 odd hours at work this week before the above chainsaw work and yesterday I spent all afternoon/evening on the log splitter project im building and dialling in the fuelling on the repaired saws. Thought I better spend a bit of time with the other half today altho I did sneak out the back and clean up a pair of husky crankcases whilst she was preparing the sunday roast
  19. This week involved stripping and rebuilding a 372 with new main bearings, crank seals etc. Next an ms460 with a duff fuel line. Replace a piston and pot on a 375xpw Repair a 357 with a minor seize. And keep cleaning and playing with the contra between times.
  20. Don't buy the cheap brands as they wont last but the stihl one is good and you can tickle it with a flat file to keep a nice edge. They actually cut better after a file than when new ive found. You would get your moneys worth out of it for the work they are capable of doing, saves your back and work at a good speed.
  21. I class myself as competent with a handle file and no guide but on bigger bars the granberg grinder comes into its own for speed especially if theres a few to do at once. Ive got a mate who only hand files and just uses a bare hand file without even a handle and has got a long standing knack of spinning the file as he pushes it thru the tooth (ie hes done it so long that way he doesn't even think to do it) and he seems to get it sharper than anything.
  22. The stihl scratcher blade on a decent brushcutter is ideal for that sort of work (similar to tct blade but proper rpm rating) I wouldn't be doing it with a chainsaw. Gives you a a good idea here of capabilities. [ame] [/ame]

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