wisecobandit

I have a selection of teng socket sets for that reason. They have like a flat matt silver anodised finish. I got fed up of picking flakes of chrome out my fingers with a needle and you certainly know about it if its on an air ratchet at the time when it embeds itself in your finger, will cut like a razor. I have to say I flogged most of my snap on gear from my younger main dealer mechanic days when all nuts,bolts and screws etc where all nice and mainly less than 3 years old. They didn't take well to being used on agricultural equipment and landrovers where rust and sometimes heat required and the odd heavy handedness was required. On top of that they actually got DIRTY and OILY and we all know you cant have snap on if that how you treat them and stick them back in your tool chest...

You can buy them on ebay for ridiculous prices. Best mark up you will ever get on a log I would imagine lol I keep meaning to do a few for when my stepdaughter goes camping but never get around to it.. Never used/tried one myself, they are worth the efoort then I take it.

Agreed paypal generally side with the buyer so hopefully they will in this case to. How was the sellers feedback out of interest?

The pawls etc are still available for pennys from stihl. (I ordered some several months back) If you have issues with the fuel line the 070/090 line is exactly the same. Sometimes the 051/075/076 ipl list a part number that comes up as unavailable for the fuel line but the 090 is the same with a different p/n. If it is an early model one of the crank bearings is oddball and hasn't been available for several years although I know i sourced the last few I could find from Canada and have 1 spare left. The decomp valve will turn but wont act as a decomp valve much the same as modern day decomps. It needs to be pushed in to work. It is however a larger rarer size m10 rather than the very common m8 size used on most saws of today.

You can mig weld a few fine lines in the cup in place of the worn out grooves and its a "get you thru" method. Bit heavy handed but it works. You may find further issues re the oiling side of things like no hole to put the oil feed into the tank etc and several different oil pumps used ( some had more splines than others) Also on most of the bigger 760's what should be the oil tank was actually made as an auxiliary fuel tank connected to the fuel tank so they need separating again. Coupled with the fact you will then have to buy a new bar and chain (same fitment as 880) along with the parts you may want to work out cost involved. If its a play project and learning curve then great but don't expect to make money on doing such a conversion.

Silly question but couldn't you just wear waders and wear some chainsaw chaps? If the waters deep enough to have to wear waders I would hope the saw wouldn't be anywhere near my feet!

Hmm initial thoughts are possibly set a bit to rich? Maybe worth idling it til it stalls and pulling the plug out to see if it looks excessively wet or black. The carb settings "ideally" tend to be half way between there movement with stops fitted so it could be loading up with fuel and causing the stalling. The L screw will affect it more obviously on tickover. Also the fact you say it starts easy usually means the carbs set a tadge rich but not always the case.

Is his address not on the paypal transaction? Don't send it back before paypal notify you to do so either.

I had summit a bit different yesterday. A new chonda (Chinese Honda copy lol) engine that was brand new but had been smacked or dropped either during shipping or at the importers causing a 2mm split in the engine block/base and distorting 1 of the engine mountings! I was going to get hold of another block and rebuild it but then thought i had nothing to lose experimenting... Aluminium braze rods wouldn't flow due to the heat sink distubution of the block, just couldn't get it hot enough. Next throw in some 90/10 alloy/silca wire and screw a bottle of argon on the mig and seems to have done the job well visually so today is a case of running it up and checking for oil leaks. Cast alloy is a bit of a b*gger welding as although it looks good it can go porous with oxidisation and heat despite cleaning it well and grinding the edges up. I would love to add a tig welder to the collection but keep putting it off as its like buying an ms880/3120 just to use a few times a year having money tied up in something that doesn't pay its way unless used a lot....

900 psi on low stage and 3000psi on high. Im using a 10x6 rsj and most of the plate work is 12mm plate. Making mine a road tow horizontal and vertical machine.

I keep coming back for more every couple days lol.....

Im building one at the mo using a 13hp petrol engine. After much research im using a 16 gpm 2 stage pump and 80mm cylinder, which should equate to a reasonable power/speed splitter.

It certainly pays to on the newer stihls as some use a plastic caged bearing which when dry heats up and melts or breaks up. As for the 150 ive not worked on one so unsure whether there is a hole in the crank to allow grease thru into the bearing. If there is then jobs a good un however if you cant find a promising outright answer then it would pay to spin the clutch off and just check for peace of mind. Im sure someone is likely to know the answer 1 way or the other tho.

Check as advised above first but in rare cases It can be caused by an air leak on the exhaust gasket or cylinder gasket.

Jon saved his money and just went with the tw10 splitter in the end... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQjR0wypHGU

I think as you both suggest that Husqvarna where intending to stop 372 production thinking the 575 would take its place. If anyone can remember here in the UK the 372 was unavailable for 3-4 mths until the public outcry and Husqvarna saw sense and started reselling the 372. No doubt they had plans to replace it at a later date with the x-torq but as that wasn't it its final stages they where loosing money. The 372 cover does require a few minor mods to fit the small mount 362, Namely the mount holes need about 4mm filing in towards each other. However this is covered when fitted up by the bar nuts and isn't exactly noticeable. You can then use the front mount tensioner removing the side tensioner or use the side tensioner but again it takes a few minor mods.

The 362xp small mounts all came with .325 bar and chains It could be possible the later large mount 362xp had 3/8 out the factory

Outer dogs must be similar to 357 as it uses the same bar mount I would think? Also with minor filing elongating the holes out on a large mount 372 cover will fit and not look out of place that you don't notice unless you look hard

Artificial for us. With dogs etc I wouldn't fancy a real tree getting pulled over and the other halfs dogs are thick enough to probably cock there leg on it to....

8 tooth on mine which is similar to yours but woods ported to so would easily pull a 20 and possibly a 24" bar but why kill a saw as you say when a bigger saw can just be used. I run a 20" bar on my 385, 24/25" on 660 and above that x 4 394/395's with larger bars. Ive always been tempted by a 3120 but keep trying to tell myself I don't need one but im weak and no doubt will get 1 next year lol

Yeah don't you just hate people as artistic as that!! All I can say is "bloody brilliant" I would love to be half as good but my artistic talents are non existent so carving will never be on my agenda. I admire and envy all of you that can.

Personally I prefer the .325 on an 18" bar but it doesn't make much difference but more because ive usually got the 357 which uses the same chain so I can sharpen them at the same time with the same file etc. (not that I ever have but it would also allow me to swap bars/chains if needed) I have the advantage tho if I need a bigger saw or I think it will struggle I just get out a bigger saw so not restricted trying to get as near as dammit the perfect 2 saw set up. I try go by 15-18" .325 20-28" 3/8th 30"+ .404 Ive always found the above to work best for me

I know on the fs55/km55 ignition coils spud theres about 3 different coils used dependant on age and then the fs56/km56 uses a different one again.

The fiskars x27 seem to be getting raving reviews by owners for there price but ive never used one.

husqvarna chainsaw 365 | eBay Saw it yesterday but it had no buy it now price then. That's some insurance claim if hes managed to get £1200 out of them for a saw which cost £520 new....