wisecobandit
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Everything posted by wisecobandit
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Have to say yesterday we broke in from new a 660 and and 395, the 395 was certainly the saw to have and wwas running much stronger again when they had both had 5-6 tanks thru Not tried the 661 tho
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Yeah was a glorious day to. You cant see but on the last distant pic in the dip/valley between the camera and tree is about a 6 acre lake we where working beside. A few mallard strolled up to see our commotion, then pheasants then cows and the bull Spud I would've had the rump off it. Have you seen whats rubbing against those back legs... Ah and if Jon (mendiplogs) was a bit closer he could've had a few big butts! The biggest isn't in the pics and fallen the opposite side of the stump from the side we where working.
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395 all day long. Reliable tried and tested saw which has never had any common faults.
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Bad pic but from a distance and after all the greenery/rubbish had been removed to give an idea of size.
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Had wickamulla help me out today on stripping/ringing down a big cedar. Was a great help, got stuck in and hopefully had abit of fun along the way compared to his normal delicate tree surgeon/climber type of work... We even had a visitor...
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Which washer? The large disc that sits behind the clutch itself as that should be marked "top" Most of the 0** saws never even used them but when they went to ms*** they did for some reason. The outer curved edge should face towards the clutch btw. If the central hole fits the crank and the outer is as big or a fraction bigger than the clutch use it but I wouldn't worry if you use it or not as like I say earlier series saws never had them anyway.
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Certainly worth a vac check if you don't know what caused it in the first place. If any husky cover will fit its likely to be the 365/372/385/390 clutch cover. As for machining, if im barking up the right tree then all it requires is a fraction off the inside of the piston where the pin goes through as it wont "fit in" the small end. You could prob just file a few strokes each side and it would fit. Its not a critical tolerance as such provided the piston is central as once in the bore theres very minimal if any sideway movement on the gudgeon pin.
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And don't forget to check the fuel line. They tend to go first off.
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Ah fair enough mate. Hope you get it all sorted ok.
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Normally a pair of long nose pliers pushed against the end of the pipe on the carb and a push will get the pipe off rather than pulling on the pipe and risking it breaking tho probably an inch shorter wouldn't hurt as theres normally a bit of spare in the tank so to speak.
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A few drain rods with a skewer on the end, a nice dimpsey night and a good push = 1 out of use nest lol. Im assuming its in an overlooked area which is why the worry?
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They are vermin and come under general licensing. You are allowed to kill magpies under a "conserving wild birds" rule. Im sure I saw them robbing the robins and blackbirds nest in nearby gardens didn't you?? If the nest hasn't been clay/mud lined in the bottom its only half built. Ive been watching a pair today actually building 2 separate nests at the same time which isn't uncommon in magpies.
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If you don't mind a bit of fuel taste in your mouth then pull the pipe out the tank and remove filter. Unplug the other end where it pushes on the carb. Stick a finger over 1 end and suck into the other end causing a vaccum, stick your tongue over the end and see if it maintains the vacuum. Normally gives the game away after 10-20 seconds if it holds it or not.
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Yup that's definetly a c-m.
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If its the cm model you should be able to see a red wire if you look at the side of the throttle body (carb) to run a solenoid valve. If theres no red wire there its not the cm model
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Spud will prob know the answer as he likes the 346's but im assuming the 2002 346 doesn't have the crankcase fed decomp valve like the 357 did of that era that gave problems with leaks?
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What age is it? It sounds a bit like possible fuel line. They tend to crack/split just as it comes out the fuel tank tho its not always very obvious and visible unless you bend the pipe around a bit.. I would also check the impulse line as that can also cause similar issues with not revving etc. Also the little gauze/mesh filter inside the carb may need cleaning and could be blocked. That's the first 3 obvious things to check.
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Yup me to
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Yeah I couldn't leave it in that state tho. Looks like its been hit with a rather harsh file or rasp! Would have to tidy that up with a finer file! The other thing is the tickover screw may also project into the hole once up running and set up. Doesn't hurt but if it needs stripping in the future you may have to wind it in a few turns to allow it to come out and not foul the case. Just take your time with that nice shiney piston fitting and don't force anything etc and if you get stressed walk away!! They are straight forward. Make sure you put the rings on the right way up btw. It will be obvious when you look at them and the way the peg is in the piston. Sorry if you already know etc but if you haven't done many people forget and you wont be the first one to break a ring attempting to fit it upside down
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Div_h Yeah like spud says it has the later ms260 carb on it. The later 026 still had the same top carb plate but the screws bind the casing in that adjustment screw area which is why its prob had a slight mod. You may also find when all fitted up the l/h screws may be slightly behind those divider things in the slot and can be a bit of b*gger to adjust. You may find whilst its apart to check as Ive filed the dividers out in the past with some carbs to make adjustment easier/sensible so you can get a screwdriver straight on them. Easier to double check it now before bolting it all back together and finding the issue.
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Have 1 drink to many? I tend to do mine over the dogs bed "just in case" of that situation but heavier stuff is easier just to stick on the dog bed and blip the air hammer/chisel. Got several pullers but think ive only ever used them in the middle of the night when "her indoors" is asleep..
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what have you come across when trimming the bush .....
wisecobandit replied to IVECOKID's topic in General chat
I wuld probably get a slap if I asked my other half that question.... -
Do you even need a puller? The screw in ones work on older saws which have the threads but the newer stihls don't have them. Much easier just to unscrew the centre nut of the flywheel til its flush with the end of the crank. Hold the saw up with your left hand by the flywheel and a sharp crack with a small hammer via the right hand on the end of the crank/nut normally frees it up first time. If its a bigger saw keep it on the floor and hold flywheel 1 handed and crack with the hammer and that works to but may take a few attempts due to not having the extra weight of saw helping you. Every now and again on small saws with small centres or old saws etc rather than crack it with a hammer just use the compressor with an air chisel fitted with a point. Hold flywheel with 1 hand. Chisel point in centre of crank and a quick blip/tap with the air chisel and jobs a good un.
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Think its all been covered before. Specials where from 2002/3 onwards. Specials had walbro carbs but the earlier models zama. Specials had adjustable oil pumps and chain adjustment thru side cover. The oval manifold changeover to round happened before the special by a few years so some standard 365's do have round inlets. The 365 special is the same spec saw as the 372 except for the cylinder/pot which is 48mm compared to the 372's 50mm
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Theres a bloke called Ron Greet who breaks tractors down this way who may be worth a phone call. If he hasn't got anything he may know who could help you out. Ron Greet Tractors. New & Used Parts
